40x copy

J

jbann

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what is the best way to get a perfect hole 8 inches deep in 416 annealed. plan on using dave kiff bolt.should it be hardend before or after drilling-boring? thanx for your input.
 
Buy it

There is an advertiser here that sells action blanks with the hole and raceways edm'ed into them. They are very straight and well done. You just have to do all the rest of the work. He sometimes has the ads in the rifles section and sometimes in the components section of the classified area.
 
Joe Duke,

Can you elaborate on the advertiser or provide a link? I am also interested in the possibility of building a custom action.

Thanks,
Med.
 
your probably right.but im gona attempt it.: already orderd the 416.;
 
blank

Med, go to the classified ads, firearms section, centerfire rifles section. The guy's ad is down about item #40.

My brother got one. They are very straight.

jbann, have fun. That is what it's all about.
 
If you are going to use a Remington bolt the hole is going to be about .703” in diameter. It is going to be difficult to bore a hole that diameter 8 inches deep and hold any size or finish. When it goes to heat treat, also known as the bend and warp department, you are going to end up with certain amount to bow. If it were me I would drill and ream undersize then heat treat. After heat treat I would hone it to size with a mandrel that stones as long as the hole to the finish size. This will get you about as perfect a hole as you can get. If done right you will be round to .00005” and straight and bow will be .0002” or less. After the hole is done put it on a mandrel and turn or grind the OD concentric to the ID.
 
I think that that the big kids use a deep hole drill. Then H.T. and ream.

For one or two, you could drill a 5/8 through hole then mount the tube on your lathe compound. Make a long boring bar that goes from spindle nose to tailstock, probably about 18" long, and the bar would bore the hole as the compound moved slowly past the cutter that would be about center in the bar.

I have a number of blanks from an unnamed source that have a .701/.702 hole through them AND the raceways finished. I traded one of them to the fellow offering the 17-4 blanks for one of his. His are wire EDM cut and very straight and the same size all the way through.

The through hole is easy compared to the raceways. Then, you have to figure out how to cut the clearance cams on the front lug abutments. Thread the front and finish the lug abutments before you cut the raceways.

A full diameter bolt type action is a lot easier to complete. Wolfe Publishing has Otteson's "Bolt Action" vol. 1 and vol. 2 on a CD. Quite reasonable and a wealth of knowledge. Money and time well spent for the beginner action maker.

Jay, Idaho
 
Jay said:
I think that that the big kids use a deep hole drill. Then H.T. and ream.

For one or two, you could drill a 5/8 through hole then mount the tube on your lathe compound. Make a long boring bar that goes from spindle nose to tailstock, probably about 18" long, and the bar would bore the hole as the compound moved slowly past the cutter that would be about center in the bar.

I have a number of blanks from an unnamed source that have a .701/.702 hole through them AND the raceways finished. I traded one of them to the fellow offering the 17-4 blanks for one of his. His are wire EDM cut and very straight and the same size all the way through.

The through hole is easy compared to the raceways. Then, you have to figure out how to cut the clearance cams on the front lug abutments. Thread the front and finish the lug abutments before you cut the raceways.

A full diameter bolt type action is a lot easier to complete. Wolfe Publishing has Otteson's "Bolt Action" vol. 1 and vol. 2 on a CD. Quite reasonable and a wealth of knowledge. Money and time well spent for the beginner action maker.

Jay, Idaho
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Yup, thats how you do it..............Don
 
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