30x 47 more info needed

J

johan teughels

Member
what is the freebore on thise reamer ?
i got a 1/17 twist barrel what bullets may work ?

got some N133/N135/ramshot X-terminator to do some testing
starting loads ?

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.040 freebore

The drawing shows a .040 lead or freebore. Bullets less than 1.1" long will stabilize in a 1-17 twist barrel. .010 is the step down from the .330 neck to the freebore diameter at a 45 degree angle. Sierra 135 matchkings will work at 1.07" long.
 
John, w/ a 30x47

you will find that N-135 will be the powder of choice for most HBR shooters. 8208XBR is another good powder. I do know of 1 very competitive shooter that is using Benchmark.

You should strongly consider your bullets based on 1.00" jackets. That gives you 112 to 125 grain bullets to choose from and virtually every CUSTOM 30 caliber maker is building using that jacket. 1-17 twist will NOT stabilize 1.080 and longer jackets, too long, weight is NOT the issue.
 
30 x 47

Johan,

The 133 powder that you have will work with 110-118 grain bullets, but work up your load slowly. The 133 will hit its peak pressure quickly. The .040" freebore is best suited for up to a 125 grain custom bullets using you 1-17 twist barrel. I have found that a 1-15 twist works best for me with bullets made on jackets longer than 1" and heavier weights. The only exception to this are some of the heavier custom bullets that have a 10 ogive which might work with your .040 freebore but may need a faster twist rate for the barrel. Good luck with your project.
 
on my 6 ppc i got no problem determinating what bullet depth to start from
i just place a bullet to far out jam it in the lands and set my bullet seater atthat lenght and start from there
on thise 30x47 i can not see the square marks on the bullet
 
335????

Dusty Stevens said:
How does 335 work in that ctg? Im really diggin 335 these days
Click to expand...

Are you referring to H-322?? Too fast for a 30x47. N-135 is really the go to powder for a 30x47, just like H-4198 is the go to for a 30BR. You can use any one of a number of powders, but you are out in "never-never land" with a lot of them. And be DAMN careful with faster powders in a 30x47. they will spike out and BITE in a hell of a hurry.

David (experienced)
 
30X47 powder choices

I have used VV135 but have switched to VV133 and found it works (groups) much better. Most recently I have been using T (Thunderbird) powder, running 3070 fps in a 16 twist barrel using 127 grain bullets. It works great.
FYI. A friend has set several world records using VV130. Just saying.....
 
Thanks. Of course, I'm familiar with N130 in the 30 BR. Just a little whiplash with you saying that you switched to N133 and then saying that your friend set records with N130.

Keep in mind that I don't know diddly about the hunter cases.

I keep thinking that someone shoot will one in UBR unlimited.
 
SGJennings said:
Thanks. Of course, I'm familiar with N130 in the 30 BR. Just a little whiplash with you saying that you switched to N133 and then saying that your friend set records with N130.

Keep in mind that I don't know diddly about the hunter cases.

I keep thinking that someone shoot will one in UBR unlimited.
Click to expand...


To be clear:

N130 works very well in the BR case.

A friend has used N130 in his 30X44 to set numerous Hunter records.

I have found that N133 is a better choice, performance on the paper wise, than N135 in the 30X47 case.

I am now using T powder in the 30X47 case and find it works better than the N133. :cool:
 
My experience with the 30X47-ish Hunter cases (46.5 to 48.5 water capacity):

-Currently available N133 has an effective burn rate similar to older N135.
-Newer and current N135 is effectively 'slower' in the .30's. As the bore size goes down (in my 6BR, for example) N135's 'effective' burn rate gets faster.
-Heavier bullets and/or bullets with longer bearing lengths (.925 8 ogive vs 1.00 8 ogive, for example) gets current N135 to work fairly well...if you've got the freebore length to get as much N135 in the case as possible.
-With bullet weights under 135 gr, current N133 is darn tough to beat.

For what it's worth...... -Al
 
dit some testing 100 yds indoor

bullets are 135 gr fb custom bullets on a 7 ogive but probably to long ( info i got here)

zz.jpg


seating depht to start determinated by putting a bullet in a case and just close the bold
bullets has no marks but sits a little deeper then when i put it in the case
left side is a sierra 150 gr bt just for comparessing (i used those fore fireforming the cases)

zz%20%281%29.jpg


tested with N135 from 40.5 gn to 43 gn 5 shot groups total lenght 1.69"
nr 1 40.5 gn .342"
nr 2 41 gn to big
nr 3 42 gn .426"

next 3 puched the bullet .02 deeper total lenght 1.67"

nr 4 41 gn .345"
nr 5 42 gn .278"
nr 6 43 gn .390"

zz%20%285%29.jpg


now i placed a bullet backwards and chambered it was pushed in a long way
messured it ( with a .30"hole tool )and place the bullets at same dept
i now thise is a little crude methode but i need to start some where

zz%20%283%29.jpg


nr 1 39 gn .410" total lenght 1.58"
nr2 40 gn .400"
nr 3 41 gn .290"
nr4 moved the bullet out to 1.61 "total lenght

zz%20%284%29.jpg
 
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Keep on playin with it. Change powder and seating depth and make notes. Only change one thing at a time and shoot 3 shot groups. No need in shooting a bad 5 shot group- it wont keep getting smaller
 
A grain at a time

is too much of a jump to learn where your accuracy lies. I use two tenths on powder and .003" for seating depth. I would also give up on powders that require the case to be "full". There are known speeds where 30 shoot well, concentrate on them and not the fastest one you can find, from my experience. The information rendered by windflags will not be forgiven by faster bullets, from my experience.

Pete
 
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grrrr still messing wiht this thing mostdoff i had to determinate the seating depth ever

got the ogive blackend with a candelle to give me the black smoke

from what i can see in the barrel the grooves stars just after the marking ring that i see on the ogive ,i see on the ogive the black marking ring but not the start of the grouves
thise thing is driving me mad how is this possible is the angle from the ogives to big so it touch the cutaway from the reamer before the grooves

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