Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 73

Thread: What is the most accurate factory rifle you've owned?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    168
    Alinwa -

    Howdy !


    " Was it something you said ?! " HAAAaaaaa !!


    I'll see if I can figure out how to get some pics posted here.

    " Today is only yesterday's tommorrow "


    And...... Don't exaggerate ! I've told you a thousand times !!



    With regards,
    357Mag

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Carrollton Mo.
    Posts
    460

    stock rifle

    Alinwa, I see what ya mean. That Montana rifle aint showroom stock. Thats why theres so many different classes whether your shooting or drag racing. My best shooting showroom stock would probably be a 85 sako 22-250 or a 77v 220 swift both under .5 but not the one holers you get from the hot rods. Doug

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Posts
    811
    factory..bone stock no up grade no work at home
    armalite ar10(t)......7.62
    berger 175's at 200 yards 1/2"
    24" bbl pre law suit match trigger
    but ammo has to be 2.96 in length due to gi throat.
    not from a mag
    hornady 130 from a mag gets close to the throat and shoot well
    Last edited by rsmithsr; 03-14-2022 at 12:32 PM.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    168

    " H " beam stock

    Alinwa-

    Howdy !

    Gonna try to attach pics of my " H " beam bolt gun. If it works, I'll try to send pics of my M-336 XLR w/ " barrel clamp / bi-pod mount.


    Please refer attachments.....

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]25319[/ATTACH


    With regards,
    357Mag

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    168

    " H "beam rifle pic w/ scope

    Alinwa -

    Howdy, again !

    Here's a more recent pic of the rifle w/ my new T-36 XR w/ 2.5X optical booster.

    Please refer attached...


    With regards,

    357Mag

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    168

    Marlin M-336 XLR .35 Remington benchrest rifle

    Alinwa -

    Howdy once more !


    Still working on the pics, but...... check out youtube video P1080016 where I give a demo on my XLR's light ( estimated 1.5oz ) trigger !

    You can see some rifle detail in the video, which is shown next to my " H " beam rifle.


    youtube.com/results?search_query=P1080016



    With regards,
    357Mag

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    168

    Marlin benchrest rifle

    Alinwa -

    Howdy !


    OK.... try these.....


    Please refer attachments....



    With regards,
    357Mag

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Manhattan & Sag Harbor, N.Y.
    Posts
    546
    My Remington Custom Shop Target Master, built by the Custom Shop after it moved to Dakota Arms.

    Bob

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    washington.........STATE that is.
    Posts
    11,940

    OK .357Mag!!!

    I don't know which of those two projects is cooler but I got's to ask. The "wood"-like parts on your bolt action, are those printed or some form of composite like Trex milled to shape??

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    washington.........STATE that is.
    Posts
    11,940
    BTW Louis.J would be proud of that "Marlin Micro-Groove" star pattern

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    168
    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    I don't know which of those two projects is cooler but I got's to ask. The "wood"-like parts on your bolt action, are those printed or some form of composite like Trex milled to shape??

    Alinwa -

    Howdy, once again ! I appolige for the delayed responses. Had superb WX here today, and took the opportunity to work outside all day.


    Hey... no flies on YOU ! The fore end, butt stock, and removable cheek rest are pieces cut from a 5/4 composite " deck board ".

    The materiel ( to me ) reminds of composite dunnage they used to hold pallets off the ground in the MILITARY. I believe the manufacturer calls the stuff a composite, because the deck board is made using a polymer + wood dust. One side has a faux wood grain pattern, the other a fine diamond pattern.... but not one as pronounced as wood checkering on rifles.

    I got the 3' extruded aluminum " I " beam from a local area building supplies place for free. It is a re-purposed central structural component from an outdoor deck railing system ( CERTAINTEED ). Different profile plastic outer rail " sleeves " are slipped over the central beam, to complete the deck rail using this system.
    I liked the robustness of the rail's side walls and central webb. All I had to do was orient the beam to form an " H " in cross section view. The central " valley " accomodated the barrel, and to float the action.... all I had to do was a slight relieving on the inside upper corners on both inner sidewall above the webb.....just enough to
    provide clearance between the beam and the action.

    I am power tool averse, and did all metal grinding and hole drilling w/ an electric drill, drill bit; and an rotary file. These were used to provide holes for using drywall screws to attach the fore end and butt stock. The 5/4 deck board is rounded on one edge, which I put facing downward to accomodate shooting using a rear bag. * It just so happened that the 5/4 board's thickness just fit inside the lower valley of the aft end of the rail. I put some RTV on the flat edge, before attaching the buttstock w/ screws.
    You'll note that I used the complete width of the deck board, to provide sufficient rifle'm buttstock height. All I di to fine tune thqt height, was use a strip cut from the rounded edge of the deck board..... to fashion a removable " cheek locator ". After removal of the cheek locator, the rifle can be cleaned from the breech, w/ the cleaning rod transiting fore N aft just above the central webb of the aft rail upper valley.

    For simplicity sake, I placed a trigger finger access cutout on the leading fwd facing edge of the butt stock using just 2 cuts . Note that all deck board cuts were made using a hand mitre box & saw. I put some stock tape on the bottom of the forend, which I cut to 2 3/4" wide because that's the width of fore end my front rest bag will accomodate. I also placed stock tape on the lower aft edge of the buttstock.

    Did you notice what the trigger guard was fashioned from ? It is a galvanized conduit hanger, that I hammer formed into an " L ". It is secured to the buttstock's lower leading edge using one large #3 Philip's woodscrew.

    Beyond the holes I drilled in the central webb to allow mounting the fore end and butt stock using drywall screws, the only other access cuts made were those made to accept the recoil lug; and to allow cleraance & access for the trigger & trigger hanger. I made the access cut long enough to allow on-rifle trigger removal / re-install,
    which negates need to partially-disassemble the rifle when trigger removal / re-installation is needed. I used a rotary file in the electric drill, to make a small reliefe grind in the aft RT upper rail side wall; to provide a small clearance for the bolt handle.

    The barrel " clamp " is 2 plumber repair plates sandwiched together. The clamp the barrel to the upper edges of the fwd upper central valley of the beam. I used carriage bolts ( that I had a local Amish blacksmith grind one side off the 4 heads )..... along w/ double-up torque plates I co-opted from "U"- bolts..... and nylon-insert lock nuts...
    to provide the clamping means. Nuts are torqued to 24 in lb. The carriage bolt head grind was necessary to clearance the inward-facing radius of heads from the inverted "V" angle of the clampin plates.

    When I spec'd the 29 " SS Broughton 1-8 6mm, I had them leave a longer straight section above the breeech; sepicifically to allow use of this clamping method. I did not know when I ordered the barrel , just how much fwd of the action I would end-up moving the clamp ? The barrel is 1.375" diam @ the chamber straight section; and is a Palma taper. During range testing, I kept relocating the clamp further fwd in 1/4" incremements... to tune-out undesired verticle. After initial start w/ the aft clamp edge butt-up against the recoil lug; the clamp only had to be moved 1/2" fwd.... to get rid of any verticle grouping tendencies.

    I use a Ken Farrel 20moa scope base and his 1" rings, to mount my T-36XR w/ 2.5X optical booster. I am currently shooting the rifle using a Jewell 2oz.

    When I was not able to find a short cut-off section of the deckboard, I was forced to have to buy an entire 8ft long board. The board plus the rotary file bit and the clamping hardware set me back $50; since I had to buy 4 ea "U"-bolt assemblies..... when all I wanted were their 4 torque plates . All the rest of the stuff I already had.

    I really really like the set-up, and doubt I will go back to a traditional stock for any future varmint / target rifles I might have.


    If you'd like, I can send some pics of my CVA " Hunter " .35 Remington single shot project. I am setting the rifle up for shooting off a bi-pod and rear bag. The bi-pod will mount via use of a " quad rail ", where the barrelled action is centered within the rail using a section of extruded aluminum tubing ( 1" ID - 1 1/2" OD ) . The barrel is secured to the short section aluminum tubing ( to allow interface of the rifle w/ the inner central quad rail ) using screws that pickup the scope base holes on the top of the barrel. The rifle w/ its aluminum adapter are integrated w/ the inner central quad rail via use of screws that pickup mounting screw holes already present on the quad rail.

    *** Like the barrel clamp / bi-pod mount I used for my Marlin M-336 XLR, the idea for the CVA"s bi-pod mounting arrangement is to prevent direct pressue on the barrel from the bi-pod. So, the CVA too, is a quasi floated action set-up. I have filled the hollow butt stock w/ modeling clay, and intend to use 1" scope rings and 1" diam steel rod or 1" bolts to add weight to the rifle. The scope rings would hold the heavy rods / bolts, and mount them either side of the quad rail.

    I am going to try to integrate a heavy plastic " spoon rest " atop the buttstock, and offset to the Rt. The cupped spoon rest will serve as an locating reference for the Rt cup of the ear muffs I wear when shooting. One of the great travesties of modern rifles / rifle shooting is that there has been little effort directed at accoodating ear muff' cup clearance off the top of the butt stock. This includes benchrest rifles, even though their stocks usually feature a low / flat comb.


    With regards,
    Kevin 357Mag

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    washington.........STATE that is.
    Posts
    11,940
    Nice description Kevin, thanks. Reason I ask is I just started an eerily similar project! I'm fabricating a stock for a big-bore single-shot project using sticks of 2"x2", 1"x2", 3/4"x2" and 1/2"x2"aluminum. Stacking and bolting and layering it into a stock-like shape.....And I'm hoping to laminate some wood-like materials onto the hand-hold areas.

    'course I noticed your trigger guard.... I just made one like it last week from a spare hunk of aluminum flatstock bent and slotted with a hacksaw and filed smooth (actually I cheated, I DO like power tools so I burned the sawmarks off on a little harbor freight 42" beltsander. Only hooked the slot once and didn't even cut myself, just bent the piece up, easily straightened with pliers.)


  13. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    381
    Iím surprised no one has mentioned the sako rifles that were made in a single shot heavy barreled version. They were made for two years and part of a third year. The first year were AXXX the next year was BXXX an the last year was CXXX. Mine was the second year B. It was a 6 ppc and it shot almost as good as my light panda.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    168

    The Outer Limits

    [QUOTE=alinwa;850369]Nice description Kevin, thanks. Reason I ask is I just started an eerily similar project! I'm fabricating a stock for a big-bore single-shot project using sticks of 2"x2", 1"x2", 3/4"x2" and 1/2"x2"aluminum. Stacking and bolting and layering it into a stock-like shape.....And I'm hoping to laminate some wood-like materials onto the hand-hold areas.

    'course I noticed your trigger guard.... I just made one like it last week from a spare hunk of aluminum flatstock bent and slotted with a hacksaw and filed smooth (actually I cheated, I DO like power tools so I burned the sawmarks off on a little harbor freight 42" beltsander. Only hooked the slot once and didn't even cut myself, just bent the piece up, easily straightened with pliers.)



    Alinwa -

    Howdy ! Great to here from you !

    Hey..... howzabout some pics of your project(s) ?


    I've given some thought to using some of that wide, sorta' " X " cross section extruded aluminum beam . This is the stuff you see used to make things like adio-visual carts, frames for advertising displays; and such. It already comes in decent widths that would be comparable to benchrest and target rifle widths.

    The " X " ( in cross section ) beam provides central " valleys " that can accept a barrel for a barrel clamp or barrel " block " set-up.

    I have also thought about re-purposing things like aluminum crutch frames, frame components from Chaise lawn chairs; or even some suitably-formed sections taken from
    bicycle frames. Use 2 round cross section pieces of shaped tubing to provide a nesting point for the barrel right in the central creease where they meet. Just thinkin'.....


    With regards,
    357Mag

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    washington.........STATE that is.
    Posts
    11,940
    Quote Originally Posted by .357Mag View Post
    .......
    I have also thought about re-purposing things like aluminum crutch frames, frame components from Chaise lawn chairs; or even some suitably-formed sections taken from
    bicycle frames. Use 2 round cross section pieces of shaped tubing to provide a nesting point for the barrel right in the central creease where they meet. Just thinkin'.....


    With regards,
    357Mag
    Just thinkin' is how all worthwhile projects start.

    In my case I'm making a BIG chambering, a modified 50BMG and I'm anal about getting some weight into the stock. I believe the stock is important to accuracy. So I'm re-purposing some aluminum drops from a construction project. I've got an 18" hunk of 2x2, about 36" of 1x2, and some random shorts of 3/4x2, 1/2x2 and 1/4x2 all solid aluminum. I've had this action for 12yrs, a barrel blank for over 6yrs and am finally starting to fabricate a way of holding onto it!

    I can't post pics yet, it's all just a pile of metal parts which the barrel isn't even threaded to the action.

    But I WILL

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •