stuck barrel

[Karnak]

If you scope mounts are still on the action try removing the front screw. If it was to long it can lock the action to the barrel

[GeneT]

If you scope mounts are still on the action try removing the front screw. If it was to long it can lock the action to the barrel

Definitely the first thing to check, and the first thing we all over look.

GsT

[alinwa]

If you scope mounts are still on the action try removing the front screw. If it was to long it can lock the action to the barrel

Well said The Magnificent!

[mwezell]

Get some Kroil in there. If you need to remove the scope, do it. Let it soak. If it's galled...it's already done and you can't change that now. Just be patient and don't force it beyond just breaking loose. Kroil, or similar, is your friend!

[alinwa]

one way to get Kroil in there is thru that front screw hole....... fill it clear up with Kroil and let 'er set, flat.

after a day or three of that- - - - stick yer air blower on there tight - - - - close yer eyes - - - - pull the trigger - - - - rinse and repeat - - - - messy

after that fill 'er up and run the screw in, repeat. Use the screw to drive the Kroil in

When all that's done.....and doesn't work..... IF you have to take 'er out of the stock anyways to turn down a ring on the lathe, wrecking the barrel

Send it to me and I'll just take it off for you and save the barrel for the cost of shipping

I'll videotape the procedure and you can watch it on youtube

[Bill McIntyre]

Hi Al,

Thanks for the offer. I am curious to see what Jeff does with it. I will post the results. I have learned a lot from everyone's post and I hope the knowledge shared will help other shooters with the same dilemma.

Sincerely,

Bill McIntyre

[Al Nyhus]

At this point, patience is your 'smiths best friend. It probably just needs more 'ooomph' put to it, as Dave mentioned.

Leverage with the proper action wrench and Kroil will likely get it done....and maybe a hydraulic press. If there isn't adequate lube between the barrel shank and the action face, some of those can really 'BANG' when they break loose. Scared the beejeezus out of me the first time I heard one do that at Stan's shop...a Hall in a small hydraulic press. Stan thought it was pretty funny to see me jump.

Good shootin' -Al

[alinwa]

Oooops.... I just remembered, this is a BAT...... that front screw hole is probably blind. Scratch all I said about running Kroil into the front screw hole.

Sorry.

But as you said, it's out of your hands now anyway Jeff will get it off just fine.

[brickeyee]

well, true... but then the anti-sieze is just grease

Not at all.
We had aircraft grade anti-seize that used a different type of SS than the fittings it was applied to.
Worked very nicely on higher pressure hydraulics with very large temperature swings.
Think desert ground environment down to -70C, sometimes lower than -100C.

Climb out took less about 60 minutes.

Mt. Pinatubo really put a chill on the higher altitudes.

We had ram air cooled units experience 'electron freeze out' the cooling air became so cold.
The hot cold band gap in the semiconductor actually separates.
No "semiconductor" action can occur over the junction.

The Lockheed aeronautical engineers came up with the idea.
The powdered SS was very finely ground.

[alinwa]

.........
The powdered SS was very finely ground......

Well, yeahh.... that's anti-sieze. What's your point?

[alinwa]

At this point, patience is your 'smiths best friend. It probably just needs more 'ooomph' put to it, as Dave mentioned.

Leverage with the proper action wrench and Kroil will likely get it done....and maybe a hydraulic press. If there isn't adequate lube between the barrel shank and the action face, some of those can really 'BANG' when they break loose. Scared the beejeezus out of me the first time I heard one do that at Stan's shop...a Hall in a small hydraulic press. Stan thought it was pretty funny to see me jump.

Good shootin' -Al

I hate the 'BANG'

I don't DO the 'BANG'

The 'BANG' is hard on glue joints

The 'BANG' is why I'm devoting most of my time right now to finding another way than glue-in

You put a barreled action in my hands, I'll just ooze it apart, no 'BANG' needed

[martin zuck]

Years ago I made up a special wrench for Remington actions that did not want come off. It captured the whole front receiver ring on the O.D. including the recoil lug and a sacrificial front guard screw. I made up a steel bushing to fit the factory barrel that captured 2” over the chamber. My barrel vice is quite a husky affair. In other words there is no way to bend or distort the barrel or action with this set up. The key to this set up is a couple of good strikes with a dead blow hammer. There is a first time for everything but in the last fifty years this set up has never failed me. I got the idea from Douglas.

P.S.
This is not a solution to galling

[martin zuck]

I guess it goes without saying my method won’t work with a glue in!

[alinwa]

Mt. Pinatubo really put a chill on the higher altitudes.

I just had to save this quote too.......Now at's FUNNY right thar!

[brickeyee]

Well, yeahh.... that's anti-sieze. What's your point?

I don't agree about anti-sieze being "better". Anti-sieze has large particles of (AL, CU, etc)
in it which build up on the action face and abutting surface.... that said, I do use lead-based (illegal) in situations
where I'd like to bulk back a little on my timing.

It id not always just "larger particles of (AL, CU, etc)".

Or did you forget you posted that erroneous statement.
And lead based paint is not illegal in an application like this.
It is illegal for the most part in residential housing.
It can also still be used in inaccessible locations in many places.

It is painfully expensive if you need to get some since the production volume is very very low.