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Thread: Steady rest

  1. #1
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    Jun 2005
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    Concord,NC
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    Steady rest

    My barrel is to short to go through the lathe headstock . So guess I will have to do my first chambering job with a steadyrest . Does anyone make rollers for the steadyrest fingers ( LOL ) ? I don't like the idea of letting the barrel turn on the brass points .

  2. #2
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    Oriental, NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArtinNC View Post
    My barrel is to short to go through the lathe headstock . So guess I will have to do my first chambering job with a steadyrest . Does anyone make rollers for the steadyrest fingers ( LOL ) ? I don't like the idea of letting the barrel turn on the brass points .
    I've had the best luck running the brass points on the threads. Always felt the alignment was better. Once the tenon and threads are cut between centers there is no load on the brass points.

  3. #3
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    Feb 2003
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    Poetry, Tex.
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    I'm with Dave. I must never felt good with the one that I have with bearings. I much prefer the brass fingers.

  4. #4
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    Concord,NC
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    I though that running the points on the threads would eat the points away , and have the barrel out of tolerance .
    Last edited by ArtinNC; 04-20-2021 at 03:12 PM.

  5. #5
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    Dec 2006
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    Branchville, NJ
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    If you clean up a parallel section over the chamber in front of the tenon, you can run your steadyrest fingers there. An old trick with steel steadyrest fingers is to use a strip of fine emery cloth, turned grit side to the fingers, wrapped around the barrel with the two ends caught in clamp side of the steadyrest. Oil the cloth before using.

  6. #6
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    Apr 2006
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    Kentucky-Home of the Kentucky Wildcats
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArtinNC View Post
    I though that running the points on the threads would eat the points away , and have the barrel out of tolerance .
    Threads are not supposed to be left full sharp. They each have a specification for flat width and height. Machinery's handbook is the Bible, in this context. Lots of very good self taught smiths cut threads under the belief that threads should be left sharp. Some even take pride in it. This is just wrong.

    The tops and bottoms of a vee thread SHOULD do NOTHING. When they do, that's when there are problems and galled up messes. In this regard, while there are specs, clearance is generally clearance. Don't get all worried about this number being precise for most applications, but do make sure there is a flat on top of your mail threads so that there is clearance between the top of the male and bottom of the female.

    If done right, there is very little load on the brass rest fingers and no damage from sharp vee threads.
    Last edited by mwezell; 04-20-2021 at 04:25 PM.

  7. #7
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    Jun 2005
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    Concord,NC
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    When you chamber with the steadyrest I guess you can't indicate the muzzle only the chamber end ? right ? only when you do the crown then you can't indicate the chamber end .

  8. #8
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    Feb 2003
    Location
    Houston, Texas
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    How long is the headstock?

    I have always done my barrels in a lathe with too long of a headstock to use a outboard spider.

    I used to have a write up in BENCHREST.com complete with pictures, on a very efficient way to do this, but The pictures got deleted.

  9. #9
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    Jun 2005
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    Concord,NC
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    The head stock is about 22 or 23"" long I think I'll have to check in the morning . And this barrel is 20 inches . And I do have a outboard spider ,but the barrel isn't long enough to use it . Jackie I think I may have that right up I'll have to see if I can find it , I have lots of old right ups that you guys have posted over the years .


    PS: The thing is I'm not a gunsmith nor a machinest , Just a tinkerererer . But I can usely get done what I want to accomplish. I don't do work for anyone else ever , but I have rebarreled or set back barrels of mine I'v done about 9 of them . And braging on my self I can shoot 3 or 4 shots under .100 and even down under a inch at 600 yds match , but can't get the other 1or2 in there with them LOL . Guess I'll never be able to do that a 80 years old but that is ok I'm having fun !
    Last edited by ArtinNC; 04-20-2021 at 10:48 PM.

  10. #10
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    Dec 2003
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    washington.........STATE that is.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArtinNC View Post
    The head stock is about 22 or 23"" long I think I'll have to check in the morning . And this barrel is 20 inches . And I do have a outboard spider ,but the barrel isn't long enough to use it . Jackie I think I may have that right up I'll have to see if I can find it , I have lots of old right ups that you guys have posted over the years .


    PS: The thing is I'm not a gunsmith nor a machinest , Just a tinkerererer . But I can usely get done what I want to accomplish. I don't do work for anyone else ever , but I have rebarreled or set back barrels of mine I'v done about 9 of them . And braging on my self I can shoot 3 or 4 shots under .100 and even down under a inch at 600 yds match , but can't get the other 1or2 in there with them LOL . Guess I'll never be able to do that a 80 years old but that is ok I'm having fun !
    Picture if you will having TWO barrels..... and a coupler.

    I spent a few months toying with barrel nuts. In the process I inside-threaded a buncha' hunks which can be used as couplers for butt joins. I now have "Extenders" or "adapters" made from castoff barrels, 12L14, hunks of pipe etc, whatever's to hand..... of every size and pitch such that I can quickly and easily lengthen a barrel from either end whether butt joins, 5/8-24 muzzle brake joins ....... I just make them as needed. I've even got couplers for Ezell tuner threads, both sizes.

    Ain't NO BARREL too short when you can couple on an extension

  11. #11
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    Jun 2005
    Location
    Concord,NC
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    My lathe head is 21 " inches with the outboard spider and chuck . With a screw on extension will that hold true when you start to thread or chamber ? I guess it will hold as good as screwing the barrel to the action ?
    Last edited by ArtinNC; 04-21-2021 at 10:34 AM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Wilcox, PA
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    882

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by artinnc View Post
    my barrel is to short to go through the lathe headstock . So guess i will have to do my first chambering job with a steadyrest . Does anyone make rollers for the steadyrest fingers ( lol ) ? I don't like the idea of letting the barrel turn on the brass points .
    i did that rollers didt hold as steady.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Ca.
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    904
    Back in 2009 there was a document published showing various methods of chambering and various lathe setups from several gunsmiths on this site. Along with pictures and if you send me an email I can then send you that document as I believe it might be of some help to you. Just send a request for that document to the bottom email address and I will get it off to you. Should you not already have it in your own stored files.

    johnnymlouis@gmail.com

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Posts
    577
    i make my headstock SHORTER by installing a spacer
    made for my line bored headstock .use the outboard 4 screw 'chuck" to hold it
    the spacer matches the od and is bored to match various bbl dia( as in more than one spacer)
    jackie based

  15. #15
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    Jun 2005
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    Concord,NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Louis.J View Post
    Back in 2009 there was a document published showing various methods of chambering and various lathe setups from several gunsmiths on this site. Along with pictures and if you send me an email I can then send you that document as I believe it might be of some help to you. Just send a request for that document to the bottom email address and I will get it off to you. Should you not already have it in your own stored files.

    johnnymlouis@gmail.com
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