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Thread: Crown question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    Crown question

    I cut my first crown today on a old heavy 10/22 barrel I had laying around for practice before doing one of my .22lr benchrest guns, and had a couple questions, will polishing after cutting do anything for accuracy or just appearance, and is the transition from rifling to crown sufficient with the 11* cut into the bore or should the edge of the rifling be tapered to the 11* crown?

    I tried to take a couple of pictures there not great, crown is smoother than it looks in picture,
    Thanks in advance

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    do a search on this forum..recent topic.
    the only thing that really matters is the short transition from bore to muzzle face.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    For my own competitive use and sport I need to have a polished face. So I back cut a 30 degree relief just beyond the bottom of the grooves and use a QTip to check for burrs. Then carefully polish the face as that area is not affected by the polishing process and does no harm to the crown the way that I go about it . The face is also cut at 90 degrees to the center line of the bore and I hope that makes sense.


  4. #4
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    I read a bunch of old threads on crowns, most seem to say a flat, recessed, or 11* crown makes no real difference, but they seem to be split on leaving the bore to crown sharp with no burrs or putting a chamfer in the bore to transition the bore to the crown. Currently I have a sharp bore to crown with no burrs, it passes the q-tip test and with my bore scope I see no burrs, if the weather would cooperate I'd just go shoot it.

    Louis, can I ask what you need the polished face for, is it more of a centerfire thing, I'm only shooting rimfire.

  5. #5
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    I am a competitive singleshot falling block cast bullet competitor and the polished face is so I see the lube star left by my hand cast and self lubed lead and tin bullets. If the star is not per-say perfect and easily seen it tells me a few things one and the more important is if I have actually crowned it right or if it needs to now be re-crowned. I also do not let my cleaning patch ever exist the bore by doing so it can create the damage that would require a re-crowning in very short order and I also use a Parker Hale jag so the patch is wrapped and easily brought back through the bore and it also keep the jag from touching the lands.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    VA
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    I think Mr. Louis makes a very valid point. I too shoot cast, and they definitely leave signature on the crown. I pull a beveled crown on all my barrels, I use a brush when cleaning and it doesn't make sense to me to pull a brush over a sharp crown. As long as it is indicated properly, and burr free, it works fine.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Location
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    I cut a 60 degree bevel on an indicated bore with a boring bar on my benchrest rifles and my hunting rifles. Whether the crown is flat, 11 degrees, 15 degrees, recessed counterbore or any other configuration, I havenít seen it make any difference. The most commonly used benchrest crown is the flat crown with a sharp edge at the bore. If I thought it was better, Iíd use it. I donít. I think itís a short lived crown and will need to be recrowned frequently. The crown with the 60 degree bevel barely deeper than what it takes to get a slight ring around the bore will last for the life of the barrel. Thatís my story and Iím sticking to it. It is burr free and I check it with a cotton swab after cutting it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    563
    and you cut from the inside out, correct ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Bryant View Post
    I cut a 60 degree bevel on an indicated bore with a boring bar on my benchrest rifles and my hunting rifles. Whether the crown is flat, 11 degrees, 15 degrees, recessed counterbore or any other configuration, I havenít seen it make any difference. The most commonly used benchrest crown is the flat crown with a sharp edge at the bore. If I thought it was better, Iíd use it. I donít. I think itís a short lived crown and will need to be recrowned frequently. The crown with the 60 degree bevel barely deeper than what it takes to get a slight ring around the bore will last for the life of the barrel. Thatís my story and Iím sticking to it. It is burr free and I check it with a cotton swab after cutting it.

  9. #9
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    Myself I do cut from the inside out and if you cut from the outside in you will probably push a burr into the muzzle. I also use a boring bar type looking tool that I ground.
    Last edited by Louis.J; 03-15-2021 at 11:28 AM.

  10. #10
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    My best shooting 52D, had a Flat Crown.

  11. #11
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    Wilcox, PA
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by fred j View Post
    my best shooting 52d, had a flat crown.
    for everyones ifo a win. 52 b triger can be replaced with a d triger i had mine done.

  12. #12
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    no transition from bore to muzzle >
    Quote Originally Posted by Fred J View Post
    My best shooting 52D, had a Flat Crown.

  13. #13
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    Location
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    Whick Model Win 52B

    Bill:
    Are you referring to the original Win 52B's or The Reproduction from Japan?

  14. #14
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    Allot of the F Class shooters in my area use a flat crown and as has been mentioned they will be re-crowned usually when being setback once and re-chambered.

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by fred j View Post
    bill:
    Are you referring to the original win 52b's or the reproduction from japan?
    the orignal.

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