1. Do different brands, speeds or lots of ammo require a different tuner setting to find improvement at the same distance.
I cannot say about different brands, but it shouldn't matter. once you find the setting for that rifle/barrel only the consistency/quality of the ammo will matter if the rifle has shot really good scores and now it isn't because of an ammo switch why would you think it is the tuner setting the ammo is simply not up to par for shooting at the level the rifle did before the switch. if you have the correct setting on the tuner you shouldn't need to adjust it.
2. Do different distances benefit from different tuner settings [tweaking] using the same ammo.
As I mentioned if you have the correct tuner setting in this case for 50yds. at 100 ammo is what will determine how it will perform.
Here are some examples of if you have the correct setting only ammo performance will matter. to tweak as some will say the tuner IMO is only masking what is a lot that is simply not up to par.
all of these targets were shot with the same rifle same tuner setting but with different lots at different distances. the 250-22X target was shot with a lot that wasn't used to tune the rifle and wasn't even lot tested, so I have to ask why I will want to touch the tuner if I have a lot that can't shoot at the same level. tuning is about getting the rifle to shoot consistently not trying to make ammo to be. the 100 yd target again different lot same rifle tuner setting. the 50-shot group a lot never before shot in this rifle and at 100yd how many rifles can shoot 5-shot groups of the same size at this distance?
I suggest you retune at 50m with you best shooting ammo honestly at 20m a good rifle without a tuner should be capable of producing the same groups
you did with a tuner.
Lee
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From everything I have personally seen, from What I have been told by guys way above my rimfire pay grade, you are wasting your time shooting @20m.
That's like a SNOOKER PLAYER saying that playing POOL is a waste of time based on the size of the table.
Believe me Tim until you have shot it competitively its hard to appreciate how good it is and how many struggle to score extremely consistently. All the same elements play out the same just at a different ratio to the target. A couple of 1/1000 of an inch make a big difference at 20m when it comes to score
Many an excellent 50m shooter struggles to achieve top scores at 20 but many who master 20m shoot exceptionally well at 20m.
Same argument might be made for indoor verses outdoor but again those who master the art score the best
But this is about tuners
No actually , that’s a guy that has had guys that built world record guns and tried it until they proved to themselves it's a waste of time, tuner twisting and ammo……you learn zero.
Like Lee stated, groups @ 20 about the same with or without a tuner. Nobody reliably tunes at 20-25.
Last edited by tim; 08-27-2022 at 06:30 PM.
OK lets not relate my 2 questions to 20m and focus them on 50 or 100m / yards.
I'd prefer to hear the experiences on that than opinions on the shooting at 20m from someone who hasn't shot it
As I said I have limited experience shooting 100yds with a tuner. Most of it done in less than ideal(comfortable) temperatures also. I was able to improve upon my groups after adjusting my tuner but was never satisfied with how the rifles shot.
You may find more info on tuners/100yds on rimfire central. This is pretty much a sanctioned 50yd BR forum.
A couple years ago I asked if there was any interest in sanctioned 100yd br on a few forums & had very few that were interested. Not enough to bother with it. Most thought there were to many variables in the added yardage & there's plenty of 50yd opportunities each weekend already.
Also people like to shoot high scores which isn't going to happen consistently enough for them at 100.
Good luck in your efforts though!
Last edited by linekin; 08-29-2022 at 05:36 AM.
Just an update.
Today was our first rimfire comp at 50m since I adjusted my Lowey tuner at 100m last month.
Well, what a pleasant surprise, the 100m node worked sweetly at 50m, possibly better than it had previously.
We had good conditions, a slight R-L breeze that just managed to move the flags so I ended up scoring 200.6 out of a possible 200.20 (20 shots).
Then an informal 100m fly shoot managed 94/100 (1in center bull) so very happy.
This was shot using sorted Eley Tenex.
After the comp I tested some Lapua Center X (sorted) and while not as good as the Tenex the old Annie was still in tune. (Tight 5 shot groups, just a lower point of impact than the Tenex)
Regards from Down Under * Doggie *
Thanks for the update Doghunter.
I've been reading as much as I can re tuner adjustments for various ammo and settings for various distances.
Seems there is two trains of thought on this with those who "set and forget" once you find the right setting and those who retune for the variation mentioned.
So once ammunition becomes available enough to the extent I can find some quantity
batches that are good enough to do considerable testing I'll try and determine the answer for myself.
Recently I tries a couple of minor adjustments up and down in rotations searching for a sweeter setting and 20 anticlockwise clicks has made an improvement which at this stage suit different ammunition at both 20 and 50m which is pleasing.
I'll keep learning
Narrow those adjustments way down, if you haven't already. By far the most common mistake by those that move tuners at all is moving them way too far at a time. Try to establish group shape and size between as close as possible to perfect tune to as absolutely out of tune as you can make it. Move the tuner ONLY 2 marks at a time. I find that it's remarkably predictable, even over different makes of common tuners(or close), that all the way in to all the way out of tune is about 8-10 marks. Moving 2 marks at a time, this is only 4-5 group shapes to familiarize yourself with in regard to how close or how far from in tune you are.
I have a tuning method that is intent is pretty much just that, to show how far between sweet spots and to quantify group shapes to tell you how far you need to move it to be back at a sweet spot. Tuners are relatively simple to use but if you move too much at a time, you quickly start chasing your tail, skipping over sweet spots and not having repeatable results because of it.
I'm not going to claim my way is the only way but that I can support my methodology with testing as well as vibration analysis testing. It's simply a method that breaks things down and shows you the value of each adjustment and how far between sweet spots. Without knowing those things, it's easy to see why so many people either chase their tail or wind up on a single setting, then testing ammo that shoots best there, in the conditions they are shooting in.
It's pretty easy to establish mark values and how far between sweet spots, but only if yu are will to move no more than a couple of marks at a time. With a really light tuner, that may be more along the lines of 4-5 marks at a time, which explains why some people(a few) have good luck with lightened tuners and moving them in larger increments that I do. It's all pretty relative and it's not voodoo nor art, but just a matter of being very methodical and quantifying mark values of YOUR tuner and rifle, on target. People are funny creatures, so when they find something to work for them, they are hesitant to accept other ways of doing things, to the point of ignoring physics at times. Most of those people advocate never moving a tuner. But no one has ever explained to me how there is one magical spot that shoots everything well, in all conditions. Fact is, they don't. They test different lots, shoot what works best and few test lots that didn't perform well at a given setting. I've done it both ways and some of my best lots were lots that didn't test well at all at a given tuner setting. Small groups mean that a given lot worked at a given tuner setting. Using examples of other lots to shoot at the same setting simply means..just that..they both shot well there. The real truth comes out when you have established mark values and how far between sweet spots. Move the tuner randomly or just too much at a time and see random results from it. Moving it with "cause and for reason", knowing what to expect, is the exact opposite thing. Pick your poison. Lol!
I measured rim thickness and diameter and weight.
What a waste of time.
Top shelf ammo is very consistent in these dimensions.
So my ammo was sorted by length from inside the rim to top of the driving band.
There I found a few discrepancies and so made a gauge to measure the variations.
It does make a difference to one's score.
I also reload for centerfire so the 'jump' can affect accuracy.
I made a simple gauge, and it improved my scores.
I apologise for not posting a photo but this site has a serious problem with attachments
* Doggie *
I managed to locate a photo that I uploaded a few years ago.
https://benchrest.com/attachment.php...0&d=1428101493
* doggie *