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Thread: Amateur with tenon threading question-

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Poetry, Tex.
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    7,137
    I do it a little different. I thread to the shoulder watching my Trav a Dial and then disengage the half nut. I then casually retract the cross slide. It leaves a thread relief that you can't see unless you look very close. Everybody has their own method and we do what we prefer. One of my buddies and a forum member made up a proximity sensor tied into his DRO and VFD on his old oriental lathe. When he gets to his programmed point on his DRO his VFD, with braking resistors, instantly stops the spindle. He retracts the spindle, does not disengage his half nuts and reverses the feed. Know you crank in your cross slide to "0" and crank in your compound and turn it on as the half nut is still engaged.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Idaho
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    422
    I had NO idea a 3 phase had anything to do with finish on threads! I always touch mine with a thread file or emery cloth to pretty them up. Great info.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Northshore
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    422
    As with most all lathe operations the operator has the most influence on the results.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Greenwood, Ca
    Posts
    242
    I donít use a thread relief, but I do make a tool nose radius relief at the shoulder. This isnít required if the lug opening or receiver face is chamfered sufficiently.
    On integral lug receivers I thread at 750 rpm and pull out .005Ē before the edge of the insert crashes into the shoulder. With a separate lug, I thread one thread pitch under the lug.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Augusta, Maine & Palm Coast, Fl
    Posts
    6,603

    A problem I've had

    is my half nuts don't always engage totally so one can get "Chowered up" threads very easily. The gearing setup for me to cut the threads I need for tenons ends up giving me a fast feed rate and before one knows what they have, Chowdah! Perhaps there is a way to slow the feed rate down but I have yet to figure out how to do it and still know I'm cutting the thread pitch I need.

    The only thing about the otherwise great lathe I bought is the danged change gears! Perhaps someone can help me out with slowing the feed rate down? I use HHS cutting tools for threading. My lathe doesn't have a conventional gear box on it. The lathe is a mid 90's Central Tool 13".

    Thanks,

    Pete

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    I had NO idea a 3 phase had anything to do with finish on threads! I always touch mine with a thread file or emery cloth to pretty them up. Great info.
    It didnít really make a lot of sense to me and Iím an electrician 😂 Iíd think 1800 rpm is 1800 rpm but the more and more I researched it Itís fairly common with single phase equipment the sign wave on single phase is more spread out than 3 phase and guess that mean something. I can attest that the surface finish is much better now that Iím on 3 phase. If I were the one paying for all the up grades (motor, VFD and switching) Iíd prolly have just lived with it.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Rubicon Prec. View Post
    I donít use a thread relief, but I do make a tool nose radius relief at the shoulder. This isnít required if the lug opening or receiver face is chamfered sufficiently.
    On integral lug receivers I thread at 750 rpm and pull out .005Ē before the edge of the insert crashes into the shoulder. With a separate lug, I thread one thread pitch under the lug.
    Are using CNC? Carriage stop? Iím pretty ing good like 200rmp with a tool width relief cut good I donít even wanna think how fast that carriage is traveling at 750 RPM.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Greenwood, Ca
    Posts
    242
    Quote Originally Posted by killswitch505 View Post
    Are using CNC? Carriage stop? Iím pretty ing good like 200rmp with a tool width relief cut good I donít even wanna think how fast that carriage is traveling at 750 RPM.
    Yeah, CNC. I was threading tenons at 1100 rpm but for some reason one barrel manufacturer would chatter. Rather than changing the speed based on barrel maker, I just slowed them all down.

    Iíve been wanting to video it but there isnít much to see with the coolant spraying on the window.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    SW Kansas
    Posts
    792

    Butch, I don't own

    Quote Originally Posted by Butch Lambert View Post
    I do it a little different. I thread to the shoulder watching my Trav a Dial and then disengage the half nut. I then casually retract the cross slide. It leaves a thread relief that you can't see unless you look very close. Everybody has their own method and we do what we prefer. One of my buddies and a forum member made up a proximity sensor tied into his DRO and VFD on his old oriental lathe. When he gets to his programmed point on his DRO his VFD, with braking resistors, instantly stops the spindle. He retracts the spindle, does not disengage his half nuts and reverses the feed. Know you crank in your cross slide to "0" and crank in your compound and turn it on as the half nut is still engaged.
    a trav-a dial and have only seen one and never in use.
    I know some thread straight in with the cross slide but I don't. Does the tool compensate for the movement of the compound? Or do you stay away from the shoulder to begin with?

    Richard

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by killswitch505 View Post
    I was having a similar issues as you with a similar lathe. I know this may not be an issue your having but Iíll get to that..... I was having problems with my threads looking like . I did a ton of research and found that single phase lathes leave an awful finish on parts. I changed my belts that helped. I still wasnít getting the finish I was seeing everyone else getting so I did a 3 phase upgrade using a vfd. Boom problem solved I could even go down to 1 RPM to thread if I wanted. I then tied the brake option to a micro switch now I can stop on a dime.

    https://youtu.be/Ncc72aKgzVY
    I would like to hear more about your ďbrake option and micro switchĒ. I have an Okuma LK with a metric lead screw and would like to use a setup similar to yours. Thank you.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by coontz74 View Post
    I would like to hear more about your ďbrake option and micro switchĒ. I have an Okuma LK with a metric lead screw and would like to use a setup similar to yours. Thank you.
    What would you like to know? I can post a parts list of what I used and take some better pictures and video tomorrow Iíll be chambering a 300NM for my father.

    Drive
    https://www.automationdirect.com/adc..._vac)/gs2-23p0

    Brake resistor
    https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ors/gs-23p0-br

    Limit switch
    https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...racy)/cs067b-l

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by killswitch505 View Post
    What would you like to know? I can post a parts list of what I used and take some better pictures and video tomorrow Iíll be chambering a 300NM for my father.

    Drive
    https://www.automationdirect.com/adc..._vac)/gs2-23p0

    Brake resistor
    https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ors/gs-23p0-br

    Limit switch
    https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...racy)/cs067b-l

    Thatís perfect!! Thanks!! If you could take a video and more pictures would also help. Thank you very much.
    Last edited by coontz74; 03-03-2019 at 10:05 AM.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    222

    Thumbs up Treading to the tenon with no chicken groove

    HERE IS THE EASY WAY TO TREAD TO THE TENON WITHOUT STRESS. i ADOPTED THIS WAY AND NEVER LOOKED BACK.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-dqOi_z5bk[/url]

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by Engrbill View Post
    HERE IS THE EASY WAY TO TREAD TO THE TENON WITHOUT STRESS. i ADOPTED THIS WAY AND NEVER LOOKED BACK.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-dqOi_z5bk[/url]
    I agree...thatís a very good way to thread worry free....but, my situation is trying to thread towards the chuck and having to keep the half nuts engaged.
    I have a metric lead screw and am cutting regular threads with no factory brake, hence why Iím looking for braking ideas...or any ideas really...

    I can cut some nice threads with one hand on the power lever and one on the cross slide wheel to keep carriage out of the chuck but it can be stressful at times...

    Thanks for the link. Much appreciated.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    8,129
    Quote Originally Posted by Engrbill View Post
    HERE IS THE EASY WAY TO TREAD TO THE TENON WITHOUT STRESS. i ADOPTED THIS WAY AND NEVER LOOKED BACK.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-dqOi_z5bk[/url]
    I tried writing all that down, no luck. Can you give us the link to just touch?

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