Scope out of adjustment

V

Veritas

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I went to sight in a newly built rifle today and once I got it on paper I have run out of windage adjustment. I am about 8 inches off. Elavation is ok. The rings leupold dual dovetail rings were installed by the smith. What is my next move?
 
Your next step sort of depends. You say "custom" rifle. If you trust the gunsmith and want to track down the problem, send it back.

Is this a custom action, or a factory action? If factory, the most likely problem would be that the holes for the scope bases in the receiver were not centered. Not uncommon. There are a number of ways to address that one, from redrilling the holes, to making a custom base, to getting a base or rings that allow for adjustment. Quickest, simplest fix is to get the Burris Z-rings, with offset inserts.

But it could be something else, without checking, no one can know for sure.
 
700 action that was blue printed by a very reputable smith. I sent it out to have a new barrel and bedded in a new stock.
 
Since you show a preference for Leupold mounts another option is the original design Leupold base and rings. These have a windage adjustment made into the base. Re-center the reticle and then make the gross windage adjustment with the base's opposing screws. When the POI is within an inch or so of the POA then use the turret to finish up.

Edit to add: Did you ever fire the action with another bbl before having it rebbl'ed now ? If so did it take a lot of windage like it does now ? If not you may have a defective bbl. Curved bore or bent bbl or something like that.
 
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From your post, the sequence of events seems to be:

1. Action was trued.

I suppose a rifle built around this, and when shot, it printed OK?

2. Rifle was rebarreled and restocked by someone else.

Now it prints too far out for the same scope to accommodate with its adjustments?

If so, I'd send it back to the person who rebarreled and restocked it. But this has the assumption built into it that there was an original rile built on the trued action that shot fine (i.e., no excessive scope adjustment) with the same scope. If no rifle was built on the originally trued action, you still don't know.

BTW, truing an action usually doesn't include checking the "centeredness" of the scope base holes. Some may, but I'd guess many don't. And to be a stickler, it is "truing", not "blueprinting," because the steps taken in getting the thread centered usually take that thread beyond the point where a factory barrel can be used -- i.e., it is not "blueprinted" to factory specs.
 
since you've gone with the dual dovetail bases, your options are not many, as those bases have no adjustments. burris signature series rings will take care of your problem, and still look nice. burris sells them in sets for dual dovetail bases.
 
I'm with lefty o. The last couple of rifles I've put together I've used the double dovetail Burris Signature rings and am well satisfied with their performance. I was able to optically center my scope and the adjust mounts for both windage and elevation including 15 moa extra on the elevation.

Or like crb said go to the single dovetail base and remove the windage with the adjusting screw in the rear base.

Or send it back to the gunsmith. He'll probably do one of the first two also or he could redrill the bases and action and tap for 8-32 screws.

There are three options and I'm sure there are others, have at it and good luck. I would talk to the smith regardless of your plans and see what he has to say.
 
The rifle was a live varmint rifle that I shot about 8K rounds through it 222 it was a tack driver. I don't remember if it required alot of windage. The mounts and rings were Dual dove tail Leupold and I had a new set put on and lapped. The Bartlien barrel that was installed printed very tight since I could get it on paper. I'll order up a set of the Burris rings and bases and see what happens next week. It is a 223 ackley now.

The original rifle was gone over by Dan Dowling, blue printed, barrel turned 1 twist and rechambered, Jewel trigger installed and I installed the mounts. It sat in a HS stock and now Mcmillan converted to single shot.
 
Barrel index

If the scope aligned properly before the gun was rebarreled, then you have a barrel that has a slight bend in the bore. Indexing will help this, otherwise, get the Burris Signature rings, with an extra set of offset inserts. Re-center your scope before you attempt to adjust with the inserts.
 
I'll bet money it's in the rear base. All and I do mean all Remington 700's require a shim on the right rear section of the rear base. Anywhere from .006" up to .015" to get the base somewhere close level. For whatever reason when the actions are polished they are rolled off to the rear and to the right side. When tightening the front screw in the rear base all will seem fine. Then tighten the rear screw and the base rocks down and to the right.

Dave
 
I took a look at what Dave posted. Now I am not by any means a machinest. So what I did was this. Mounted the base as descibed, then I too a depth guage and placed it on the side of the base. It's off by about .010 with that I have a shim kit that came from Hart. Should I cut one of the .010 shims long ways to get it on line with the right side along the base.

I don't know if I am explaining this well.
 
Your next move is to reverse the bases, this will sometimes give you enough to "fix" the offset. Start with the rear base first.
bigbull
 
Veritas

I use the same shims. The trick is to cut the right shape to get just enough support on the right rear. I cut an L shaped shim that I insert from the rear. It is wide enough to come to the middle of the base, cover about 1/2 the screw hole( front to rear) and go down the right side for about .300" I use Talley rings around here on hunting rifles and I use a pair of machinist squares and a 1/2" wide steel parallel to line up the sides and lay on top and see if it rocks side to side or front to back. I don't need to use both but it's check and double check when mounting a scope stress free.

Dave
 
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