New Barrel Break-In
- Thread starter shinny
- Start date
Centerfire
Member
Shinny, the barrel manufactures have brake in procedures on their web sites.
Who's barrel do you have?
Centerfire
Who's barrel do you have?
Centerfire
Rock Creek 5-R 17 30cal
A
abintx
Guest
EASY BARREL BREAK-IN
If you want a super easy method for both fire forming and breaking in a barrel follow Joe Krupa's method …
"When I get a new barrel, I break it in with 25 pieces of newly turned brass.
I clean the new barrel, and then shoot 10 pieces to both fire form and break in the barrel. Then I clean the barrel and shoot the remaining 15.
After that, I clean the barrel and start tuning it with the first ten. I am convinced that you break in a barrel by shooting it than by cleaning it."
Butch Lambert
Active member
+1on that. Start by shooting it and clean well after about 10 rounds. Don't wear it out doing one shot and clean.
goodgrouper
tryingtobeabettergrouper
Wear it out by shooting one shot and clean? Sure would like to hear how that is wearing a barrel out!
If the barrel is custom, it is hand lapped. So the only thing that's sharp in that barrel is where the reamer ends. So we're trying to get rid of that sharp edge, correct? So, wouldn't it stand to reason that since copper is a guilding metal, all subsequent shots after the first one are not going to do anything to that sharp edge but just layer copper and carbon over it? If that's true, then shooting 10 shots before cleaning will not hurt anything, just waste 9 bullets. Shooting 15 rounds will not hurt anything, just waste 14 bullets. So, to me and my dumb brain, you wear out a barrel faster if you DON'T shoot one shot and clean.
Butch Lambert
Active member
GG, it will sink in one day.
goodgrouper
tryingtobeabettergrouper
That's what they said about Obamanomics too. But I'm still trying to figure out how 16 trillion dollars is < 8 trillion and how 5 shots is > 25?
C
caroby
Guest
True..
Myself...
First clean the freshly cut chamber well, clean the throat / bore well before the first shot.. Then.
Simply shoot 5 - 10 while peeking at the muzzle (BOLT OPEN) for copper signs.. Typically there is some and this in a hi-end custom tube is due to the burrs in the throat from chambering....
Mostly 10 - 20 rounds with through cleaning every 10 will get that throat all cleaned up and copper should go to ZERO (zero for all intensive purposes).
Has worked well for me over the years.
Now factory tubes......... Life's too short, just shoot'em........
cale
Wayne Shaw
Active member
To stir the pot a little, I think there is a difference on what should be done, depending on caliber/twist.
I think most would agree, if a barrel is copper fouled, that fouling should be removed because it will continue to build up.
For most short range barrels, the velocity and twist aren't particularly "aggressive". But when you have a big boomer and a fast twist for 600/1K, then care should be taken to be sure if copper starts to build up, it needs to be cleaned/removed. Here is where I think a shot or two, then clean/check for copper can be of benefit. Plus, no two barrels are the same, one may clean up much easier than the next.
I think most would agree, if a barrel is copper fouled, that fouling should be removed because it will continue to build up.
For most short range barrels, the velocity and twist aren't particularly "aggressive". But when you have a big boomer and a fast twist for 600/1K, then care should be taken to be sure if copper starts to build up, it needs to be cleaned/removed. Here is where I think a shot or two, then clean/check for copper can be of benefit. Plus, no two barrels are the same, one may clean up much easier than the next.