Rifle Balance
- Thread starter Target 58
- Start date
steve stanley
Well-known member
I want it to balance right about the front of the action
I'm a relatively new shooter, but I've never given much thought about balance. Can I assume this balance point would be advantageous for most long guns? I wouldn't think balance is very important when shooing from a bench with the muzzle and butt stock both being supported, no?
HenryBennett
New member
Proper BR rifle balance is generally where the rifle balances about an inch or two forward of the action. You can test this by placing your rifle on a narrow rest like a dowel rod. Many believe balance effects recoil management and, ultimately, accuracy.
In Benchrest the rifles are usually not supported at the muzzle but a few inchs back on the forend of the stock. This allows for the stock to recoil with out falling out of the front bag and will not interfere with barrel vibration.. If the weight of the gun is to far forward the rifle will have a tendency of have the butt stock bounce up on recoil which will give you low impact on the target and if butt stock is to heavy it will affect barrel rise on recoil which can create a high impact on target. If you hang on to the gun, balance will have less effect but can you hold on to the gun exactly the same for all 5 shots and not affect the point of impact?
Super important, especially shooting free recoil which most do.
Nothing worse than the butt of the gun being “ bouncy” in the rear bag, why the best stocks allow for weight back there.
A weight class rifle , often, will not allow perfect balance but you want as much weght back there without going over.
You also want somebody to watch the gun recoil to see if it comes straight back in the rear bag. I’ve seen guys that never realize that’s an issue until observed.
Nothing worse than the butt of the gun being “ bouncy” in the rear bag, why the best stocks allow for weight back there.
A weight class rifle , often, will not allow perfect balance but you want as much weght back there without going over.
You also want somebody to watch the gun recoil to see if it comes straight back in the rear bag. I’ve seen guys that never realize that’s an issue until observed.
steve stanley
Well-known member
Lead is what i use, you do not want loose weight. It needs to be fastened to the gun
Yeap, that makes sense
Tungsten Carbide. EBay has every size that you may need.
mwezell
Mike Ezell
I use 70/30 or 65/35 copper tungsten alloy rod that can be found on ebay. It's machinable and still almost as heavy as tungsten carbide. Not cheap but about 1.5x the weight of lead. It just works well. Lead shot and epoxy can be mixed on a budget but you won't get the same weight from it.
mwezell
Mike Ezell
I much prefer to attach the weight to the butt plate and being machinable is a big deal in this regard. I've seen stocks destroyed by a weight getting loose in the back end because it wasn't attached. Most of us don't have the ability to machine tungsten carbide. Copper/tungsten alloy is the way to go, imho. Perhaps that's what you are using or meant. It's also available on ebay. Neither is cheap but one is machinable while the other isn't. Both can work but I see no reason to give up machinability in this application. It can be for simply drilling and tapping a hole to attach it to the butt plate or to cut and fit to the available space in your stock, but nevertheless, being able to cut it is of value to me.
COPPER TUNGSTEN ROD 3/4" X 8" LONG | eBay
COPPER TUNGSTEN. PURE TUNGSTEN. SILVER TUNGSTEN. COPPER ALLOY 102. Grade: 50-235, 70% W - 30% CU. As your partner it is essential that we provide you with quality parts and impeccable service. It is our mission to be dedicated to maintaining a high degree of performance while utilizing high...
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I make my weight systems much like Mike Ezell describes. A piece of tubing (copper or aluminum) appropriate to the size of copper tungsten rod is used and a front cap made. The cap holds a rubber bumper. That tube assy gets epoxied into the stock. The weight bar is drilled and tapped 1/4-20 and a modified flat headed cap screw goes into the butt plate to hold the weight rod. When the butt plate and weight rod is installed, the rubber bumper gives a bit of compression so the weight is supported at each end. The weight bar is taped around the outside so it's supported by the inner portion of the weight tube. The two butt plate screws go into larger than normal threaded pillars. It's imperative (in my opinion) that the butt plate be bedded to the stock to help distribute the load.
Here's a few pics of various ones I've made both finished and during the process.
Good shootin'
-Al
Here's a few pics of various ones I've made both finished and during the process.
Good shootin'
-Al