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Thread: barrel holding jaws

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Kansas
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    239

    Smile barrel holding jaws

    Redesigned my removable barrel holding jaws. Fitted a ball bearing and a shoe to what I made earlier now can hold barrel super tight if needed and still float the barrel very easily. Can install or remove from the four jaw chuck in less then a minute both ways.

    Chet


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by coyotechet; 08-09-2018 at 09:30 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    washington.........STATE that is.
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    Quote Originally Posted by coyotechet View Post
    Redesigned my removable barrel holding jaws. Fitted a ball bearing and a shoe to what I made earlier now can hold barrel super tight if needed and still float the barrel very easily. Can install or remove from the four jaw chuck in less then a minute both ways.

    Chet


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1 BEARING JAWS.JPG 
Views:	546 
Size:	1.54 MB 
ID:	21294 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2 BEARING JAWS.JPG 
Views:	542 
Size:	1.33 MB 
ID:	21295 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	4 BEARING JAWS.JPG 
Views:	532 
Size:	1.25 MB 
ID:	21292


    perty cagey....

    I still use 2 or 4ga copper wire

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Tennessee
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    6,438
    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    perty cagey....

    I still use 2 or 4ga copper wire
    My best yet, I chuck on about 1/4" of the edge of pre 1982 copper pennies. Pre 1982 copper pennies are still copper.

    Be aware when chucking a barrel too tight. Push a tight fitting lead slug through. You might have distorted the bore.



    .

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Williamson County, Texas
    Posts
    271
    i were to use a calibrated torque wrench, about how much would it take to grab on the barrel that would prevent slippage?

  5. #5
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    Dec 2003
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    washington.........STATE that is.
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    Quote Originally Posted by NezRongero View Post
    i were to use a calibrated torque wrench, about how much would it take to grab on the barrel that would prevent slippage?
    I'm not coyotechet, and I ain't never stayed at no Holiday Inn...... and I have no idea how many torques to slip.....but the way I use wire they neither slip nor strip nor squish thee bore (and Jerry's right, I HAVE distorted bores before)

    My wires are squished down, "PRE-squished" to a flattened profile before I use them to effect. They offer about the same surface area as Jerry's pennies.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Kansas
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    239
    As to how tight you hold the barrel with the 1/2 inch by 3/4 inch brass holding shoe no matter how tight or loose you tighten the pressure it is spread over a much wider area allowing much less pressure at any point and is way less then the pressure point of holding with a I/4" of a copper penny or a piece of copper at that single small area of about 1/4inch or less. Many ways to hold the barrel and I have tried and used most ways just wanted a way to have more freely float of the barrel when chambering small diameter barrels .625 and less light carry rifles. Not trying to find fault with any method as they all do the job.
    Chet
    Last edited by coyotechet; 08-09-2018 at 10:39 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    36
    Very nice design and workmanship!

    In the pursuit of a perfect jaws/fixture design to hold a barrel and allow it to pivot freely as it is adjusted at the other end by the spider I think the perfect solution would be some type of a ball and socket design where the ball had a hole large enough for the barrel. Some method to lock the barrel to the ball would be needed and this fixture would then go in between the four jaws of a chuck. Some way to keep the ball from spinning freely with respect to the chuck, would also be needed.

    I think that all fixtures with jaws that aren't of this ball and socket-type must allow for some small amount of sliding motion of the barrel to occur while clamped between the chuck jaws and while the spider is adjusted. Therefore, the jaws cannot be so tight so as to prevent this small amount of sliding without possibly some small bending of the barrel.

    Admittedly this ball-and-socket fixture design, while maybe close to a perfect solution, is likely more complicated than what is necessary for the work needed in centering a barrel, etc., and achieving good results.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    1,460

    Very Nice Chet

    Beautiful workmanship and good thinking.

    Me? I,m too lazy to make something like that .

    I have a good system for chambering in the steady rest and it has worked well for me but I sure enjoy seeing new innovations such as yours. Thanks for sharing.

    Gene Beggs

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    60
    To protect a barrel I wrap a piece of brass or aluminum around the end of the barrel when chucking it in the lathe

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    7
    Nicely done.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    4
    Nice, What are your thoughts on bolts with the swivel pad on the end?

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    washington.........STATE that is.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ranch23 View Post
    Nice, What are your thoughts on bolts with the swivel pad on the end?

    I STILL ain't coyotechet and still haven't stayed at H.I. but I did try this a liddle bit and didn't like it. When I was adjusting it loose, aligning the cathead the bolts/feetys on mine would 'klik' and 'clunk' from side to side instead of swiveling smoothly

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Augusta, Maine & Palm Coast, Fl
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    5,992

    The more I think about this

    the more practical the tubes with adjusting screws in them seem to be, using the long pin method of getting the chamber area straight. I've been thinking about making one but cant seem to stop running around in those small circles.

    Pete

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    washington.........STATE that is.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Wass View Post
    the more practical the tubes with adjusting screws in them seem to be, using the long pin method of getting the chamber area straight. I've been thinking about making one but cant seem to stop running around in those small circles.

    Pete
    take yer outside shoe off Pete....... it'll straighten ya' right out.

    just make sure you're pointed TOWARD the shop at the time...

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