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Thread: Difficult Bolt Lift?

  1. #1
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    Difficult Bolt Lift?

    I have a Rem 700 short action left hand. Prior to the last 2 months or so, it's been about 20 years since I fired the thing and I have no remembrance of any issues. So what would cause any issues with a difficult bolt lift even with an empty chamber? There is a bit of a hitch when you close the bolt, but you kind of have to whack it with the palm of your hand to get it open. The lugs should have been lapped way back when, but IIRC the action and bolt were nickel plated too. Also IIRC the spring was replaced with a 32# one.

    I disassembled the bolt and everything inside looks good.
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    Last edited by antelopedundee; 07-11-2018 at 08:23 PM.

  2. #2
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    Difficult bolt lift

    you have closed up the operating tolerance by having it plated.
    nickel drags ' and is sticky on moving parts. try lapping the bolt in or changing to one that is not plated.

  3. #3
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    What type of "nickel plated" was done.

    Electroless or actual electroplating?

    Electroplating is markedly thicker and often involves a copper layer before the nickel increasing 'build.'

    Electroless is a chemical deposition process and normally far thinner and does not require a copper layer most of the time (if ever).

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by GerryM View Post
    you have closed up the operating tolerance by having it plated.
    nickel drags ' and is sticky on moving parts. try lapping the bolt in or changing to one that is not plated.
    What I was thinking and makes sense. I usually use a little lube on the contact part of the lugs. I could try to file it off or more likely will just live with it. I may try to take an antelope with it this fall.
    Last edited by antelopedundee; 07-10-2018 at 05:30 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by brickeyee View Post
    What type of "nickel plated" was done.

    Electroless or actual electroplating?

    Electroplating is markedly thicker and often involves a copper layer before the nickel increasing 'build.'

    Electroless is a chemical deposition process and normally far thinner and does not require a copper layer most of the time (if ever).
    Was done by the Bill Davis [pistolsmith] shop in Sacramento and IIRC it was the electroplate.

  6. #6
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    Post a pic of the cocking cam angle on the receiver as it interfaces with the angle on the root of the bolt handle.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Nyhus View Post
    Post a pic of the cocking cam angle on the receiver as it interfaces with the angle on the root of the bolt handle.
    One would think that it would open about about as easily as it closes, but I guess not.

    Hope these are what you're asking for. The second one is a bit fuzzy.
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  8. #8
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    Is there any difference with the firing pin assembly removed from the bolt?

  9. #9
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    Don't have a Remington, but does the front screw thread into the lug ways?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MilGunsmith View Post
    Is there any difference with the firing pin assembly removed from the bolt?

    Didn't try that. Can give it a shot.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Kielly View Post
    Don't have a Remington, but does the front screw thread into the lug ways?
    Just eyeballing it, with a BDL it does. No indication that the outer surface of the lugs has had any contact with the front screw. I've got 3 other rifles [and one in the works] with that style of stock [Richards micro-fit dual-grip thumbhole] with nary a problem. I expect that my friend who did the fitting and finishing made sure that the front screw didn't contact the lugs.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by antelopedundee View Post
    guess not.Hope these are what you're asking for. The second one is a bit fuzzy.
    No. There is an angle on the root of the bolt handle that contacts another angle on the back of the receiver when the bolt is opened. This is what 'cams' the bolt back and begins the primary extraction. Look down from the top and slowly open the bolt...you'll see it. It what causes the bolt to move rearward at the top of the bolt throw.

    Also, with the bolt closed, use a feeler gauge between the front of the bolt handle and the rear of the receiver and see what the clearance is.

    Here's a link to a previous thread....there are some good pics of the cam angle interface albeit with a different action.
    http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?...ht=bolt+timimg
    Last edited by Al Nyhus; 07-11-2018 at 09:00 AM.

  13. #13
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    Yes, good explanation, and a good lesson! That action was seriously mistimed - the stripped bolt worked perfectly, but once assembled, the cock-on-close was substanital - similar to an Enfield - I blamed it on the trigger-hanger, or, the placement of the trigger-hanger slot, relative to the cocking piece - obviously, at the time, the solution was, "over my head".

    Dundee, I'd lose the 30# Wolf spring, and return to the 22-23# spring. When you read through Al's thread, the Rem. 700 which "quit" on me at the NATIONALS, did so due to a combination of mistimed bolt-handle (minimal cocking cam to receiver cam surface contact - only about 1/4th of the cam length) AND the excessively heavy spring, which exacerbated wear, resulting in almost NO primary extraction. Custom actions are -usually- better timed than Rem. 700s, which are relatively poor.

    Many of us messed with the heavy springs, and found that the 'old' 22-23# springs delivered better precision.
    RG
    Last edited by R.G. Robinett; 07-11-2018 at 10:13 PM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MilGunsmith View Post
    Is there any difference with the firing pin assembly removed from the bolt?
    Tried that this afternoon and didn't change much.

  15. #15
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    .

    Quote Originally Posted by antelopedundee View Post
    Tried that this afternoon and didn't change much.
    So you are saying that without a firing pin assembly that the bolt still cams hard? If that is the case then you have an interference condition somewhere..........
    don

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