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Thread: Barrel block location

  1. #1
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    Barrel block location

    I recently moved my barrel block forward 3 inches when I installed the rimfire barreled action so it is located about midway between the muzzle and the face of the action. Since it works very well with the rimfire setup, I decided to try the 6 ppc !.250 barrel with the block in this position. Didn't work. Scatters shots like a shotgun.
    Just wondering if any one else has tried moving the block forward and come up with the same results.
    Gene

  2. #2
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    Gene, I am contemplating doing away with the barrel block. Sometimes I think the block causes problems.

    A number of years ago, Speedy had a Rail that had one of those old long Kelbley Action, a Polar, I think. It was simply bolted to the top, and the barrel hung out.

    That was one of the best shooting Rails I ever saw.

    I can picture one of the big Bat Actions, possibly a model L, bedded and bolted to the Top. It would be a simple matter to modify my top to accomplish this.
    Last edited by jackie schmidt; 12-11-2017 at 04:52 PM.

  3. #3
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    Hi Jackie,
    This is something that I tried and it didn't work. To much vibration. Scattered shots.
    Like you, I had seen a long Kelbly action bolted to the top so I decided to bolt my BAT model M to the top. The first thing I noticed is that if I just bolted the action to the top I wouldn't be able to operate the bolt handle so I made up the block to raise the action up to be able to work the handle.I do think I remember seeing the top cut out for bolt handle clearance for the Kelbly setup but on my gun the way it is made that is not possible. A lot of machining for something that didn't work.
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  4. #4
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    Some barrel blocks seem to work reasonably well. This one belongs to Gary Ocock.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gene DeLoney View Post
    Hi Jackie,
    This is something that I tried and it didn't work. To much vibration. Scattered shots.
    Like you, I had seen a long Kelbly action bolted to the top so I decided to bolt my BAT model M to the top. The first thing I noticed is that if I just bolted the action to the top I wouldn't be able to operate the bolt handle so I made up the block to raise the action up to be able to work the handle.I do think I remember seeing the top cut out for bolt handle clearance for the Kelbly setup but on my gun the way it is made that is not possible. A lot of machining for something that didn't work.
    Gene - technically, those photos show an "action block" not a barrel block. A barrel block only "contacts" the barrel.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gene DeLoney View Post
    Hi Jackie,
    This is something that I tried and it didn't work. To much vibration. Scattered shots.
    Like you, I had seen a long Kelbly action bolted to the top so I decided to bolt my BAT model M to the top. The first thing I noticed is that if I just bolted the action to the top I wouldn't be able to operate the bolt handle so I made up the block to raise the action up to be able to work the handle.I do think I remember seeing the top cut out for bolt handle clearance for the Kelbly setup but on my gun the way it is made that is not possible. A lot of machining for something that didn't work.
    You probably saved me a big headache. Thanks.

    Gene, I have a big walnut plank that I have often thought of making a Rail to out of. Just for the heck of it.
    Last edited by jackie schmidt; 12-14-2017 at 06:26 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gene DeLoney View Post
    I recently moved my barrel block forward 3 inches when I installed the rimfire barreled action so it is located about midway between the muzzle and the face of the action. Since it works very well with the rimfire setup, I decided to try the 6 ppc !.250 barrel with the block in this position. Didn't work. Scatters shots like a shotgun.
    Just wondering if any one else has tried moving the block forward and come up with the same results.
    Gene
    Did you re-tune the load to the new setup?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ELR Researcher View Post
    Gene - technically, those photos show an "action block" not a barrel block. A barrel block only "contacts" the barrel.
    You are correct, that is an action block. Attached is a pic of the barrel block setup for the rimfire barrel.
    Gene
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackie schmidt View Post
    You probably saved me a big headache. Thanks.

    Gene, I have a big walnut plank that I have often thought of making a Rail to out of. Just for the heck of it.
    Jackie, I recall a fellow by the name of Eric Miller created a top made of wood, might have been laminated. Had round bars attached to the bottom and rode on aluminum V blocks with class 7 air craft bearings installed at 45 degree angles. This was back in the mid 1980's and as I remember the thing shot really well. His reasoning was that the wood top damped out a lot of vibration.
    Let us know if you decide to give the wood a try how it works out. You might be pleasantly surprised.
    But be on the look out for termites.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwezell View Post
    Did you re-tune the load to the new setup?
    Oh yeah, I tried different loads, different powder, and different seating depth.
    Gene

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boyd Allen View Post
    Some barrel blocks seem to work reasonably well. This one belongs to Gary Ocock.
    I know.....I know.........I know.............Gene

  12. #12
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    At our last match here at Ben Avery I walked the line and counted 34 rail guns and every one had the barrel block located close to the action face. And also all but 3 had Delrin sleeves around the barrel.
    Some even have the block machined as part of the top so forget about moving those.
    Maybe we should quit trying to build a better mouse trap.
    But then again "nothing ventured, nothing gained' keeps coming up...................
    Gene

  13. #13
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    Gene,

    Thought you might find this interesting.

    Many years back, up here in the NW, when Manley Oakely was in good health and doing experimenting, he tryed moving the block forward to see how it might work.

    He redrilled his rail top so the block could be moved as far foward as possible, with a row of holes to the rear, so the block could be progressively moved back in regular increments.
    With the block furthest forward, the groups were pretty poor. As the block was moved rearward, the groups became better and better, until in the rear most position did the the groups become acceptable.

    FWIW
    Steve Kostanich

  14. #14
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    Assuming that the barrel block is positioned directly in front of the action, are there any well established guidelines for the length of the barrel block, how much materials there should be around the barrel (the minimum thickness of the barrel block), and the weight of the barreled action?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Kostanich View Post
    Gene,

    Thought you might find this interesting.

    Many years back, up here in the NW, when Manley Oakely was in good health and doing experimenting, he tryed moving the block forward to see how it might work.

    He redrilled his rail top so the block could be moved as far foward as possible, with a row of holes to the rear, so the block could be progressively moved back in regular increments.
    With the block furthest forward, the groups were pretty poor. As the block was moved rearward, the groups became better and better, until in the rear most position did the the groups become acceptable.

    FWIW
    Steve Kostanich
    Steve,
    I never saw but heard of a setup where the barrel was mounted in a V block that was full length of the barrel.
    The clamping block on top could be moved for and aft by means of a series of drilled and tapped holes.
    Also, more than one clamping block was tried but I guess the results were mixed.
    Gene

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