Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 56

Thread: Carbon Ring

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    South Central Pa.
    Posts
    113

    Carbon Ring

    What do you use to get the carbon ring out of the chamber throat? I get it so bad it drags on the bullets on three rifles. With lots of soaking of KG 1 Carbon Remover and scrubbing I barely make a dent in it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Fresno
    Posts
    4,404
    Load up a nylon bore brush with IOSSO, full to the ends of the bristles, and short stroke and twist. Don't do too much at once. Clean out and inspect and then go again. I think that IOSSO is "sharper" than JB, although both are good products, if properly used.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    163
    If you want to remove it quickly, use a short rod, such as a chamber cleaning rod, with a bronze brush wrapped in 0000 steel wool and scour it out. I used this techniqe recently on a carbon ring that was impervious to solvents and mild abrasives. Through the borescope, copper shards were embedded in the carbon ring. It required a little work with the steel wool method to scour it all out. Once the carbon ring was removed, inspection with the borescope showed no damage.

    Lawrence

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    109
    It's funny because the whole concept of the "carbon ring" is apparently a unknown to many shooters, and when you mention it to some, some look at you like you are on a different planet. In the past month I had two customers who had constant pressure problems and thought there was something wrong with their barrel - - there was, there was a carbon ring in each case and it was so bad it was constricting the throat area so that when I pulled a cleaning rod backwards through the bore with a tight patch on it, I could feel the back pressure increase significantly right before it hit the chamber. I used JB on a big patch wrapped around an undersized bore brush and worked the throat area and that got rid of it in each case. Test firing loads that were blowing out primer pockets before proved to be now fine after getting rid of the "carbon ring". I looked at one "carbon ring" before the JB treatment and it had bits of copper jacket embedded in it just like L.E. Hanson notes above.

    Robert
    Last edited by rcw3; 03-24-2012 at 06:41 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    South Central Pa.
    Posts
    113
    JB is what I plan on trying next. I was hoping I would get some conformation. I've been fighting this problem for some time and the biggest surprise is finding someone who understands what I'm talking about. I sure can't believe I'm the only one with this problem. Thanks for the advise! I'm finally starting to think I'm on the right track to a solution.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    washington.........STATE that is.
    Posts
    8,164
    This problem goes back a ways I remember Tony Boyer writing an article about the reaming tool he made from what, a .22LR case as I recall??? This was in the early '90's. And I've seen several articles about using brass or copper rods with teeth filed into the end.

    This is why I run my gapspace so short......

    al

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Oswego, New York
    Posts
    964
    In my 30 cal. I use a 35 cal. brush, with Montana extreme 50 bmg. solvent. Then once you get it all out. I use Flitz to polish the throat and neck area, it keeps it from sticking so bad, next time it will come out a little easier. But the over size brush is the trick.

    Joe Salt

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    South Central Pa.
    Posts
    113
    Been there with the brush. Stuff is stubborn. Got some JB on the way.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    109
    I find the Hodgdon extreme powders are most prone to create a carbon ring build up, and the build up I get is very hard stuff to remove (never found anything but a mild abrasive like JB that is effective at removing it). I really don't like to JB the throat area and I try not to do it unless I feel I need to do it, but I have never found much else that does the job as well as it.

    I don't know it is created as a result of a gap between the end of the brass and the end of the chamber (although that probably does not help to have a big gap there), it seems like it's up forward in the rifling more to me and what I see.

    Robert

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    South Central Pa.
    Posts
    113
    The two rifles I have the hardest time with are shooting loads with Varget. And no, I have no intention of giving it up.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    south beloit,il.
    Posts
    193
    carbon is very hard..... rite next to diamond.........to lap it out.... flitz....iosso...J-B... etc. (are designed to remove metal ).....one would need a diamond abrasive.Carbon however.....can be chemically removed.
    I use GM Top Engine Cleaner.
    bill larson

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    aurora, co
    Posts
    3,475
    bingo.....
    or duh
    ladies and gentlemen...
    welcome to the wonderful world of chemicals...or as they said durign the 70's..better living thru better chemestry.
    quit rubbing and scrubing...dont let it build up...use a carbon remover as the first step in every cleaning...and you will have not carbon ring.
    i start every cleaning session with two wet patches of gm top engine cleaner.......
    no more issues...and yes i have been there done that.
    i had a bbl with so much carbon in it, that when the gm tec hit the carbon the first time i could barely get the patch out of the bbl.
    mike in co
    Quote Originally Posted by bill larson View Post
    carbon is very hard..... rite next to diamond.........to lap it out.... flitz....iosso...J-B... etc. (are designed to remove metal ).....one would need a diamond abrasive.Carbon however.....can be chemically removed.
    I use GM Top Engine Cleaner.
    bill larson

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Hondo, TX
    Posts
    1,562
    FWIW
    I did a test last year on several carbon removers.
    Liquids and pastes. What I found could be causing false readings for a lot of people.
    You can test it yourself.
    I found that certain products will sort of react with the barrel (SS) and turn black regardless whether it is dirty or not.
    To test yours simply clean the outside of the barrel with alcohol then take your preferred cleaner on a patch and rub the clean area of the barrel with the same force you use to clean the inside of the barrel.
    You will be surprised how many patches can turn black even from clean steel.
    Kind of like using brasso on clean brass can still turn the rag black.
    Try it for yourself...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    south beloit,il.
    Posts
    193
    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    FWIW
    I did a test last year on several carbon removers.
    Liquids and pastes. What I found could be causing false readings for a lot of people.
    You can test it yourself.
    I found that certain products will sort of react with the barrel (SS) and turn black regardless whether it is dirty or not.
    To test yours simply clean the outside of the barrel with alcohol then take your preferred cleaner on a patch and rub the clean area of the barrel with the same force you use to clean the inside of the barrel.
    You will be surprised how many patches can turn black even from clean steel.
    Kind of like using brasso on clean brass can still turn the rag black.
    Try it for yourself...
    I ran a similar test with Sweets 7.62..... the most feared copper remover.I took a barrel and for 1 week.... 5 days I kept reapplying sweets to the same spot....never wiping any off just reapplying.... results... NO EFFECT.... not even discoloration....

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    washington.........STATE that is.
    Posts
    8,164
    Quote Originally Posted by bill larson View Post
    I ran a similar test with Sweets 7.62..... the most feared copper remover.I took a barrel and for 1 week.... 5 days I kept reapplying sweets to the same spot....never wiping any off just reapplying.... results... NO EFFECT.... not even discoloration....
    IIRC the "problems" associated with the use of Sweets had to do with it coming into contact with other cleaning solutions like maybe Shooter's Choice??? I've always been careful to use chemicals separately (except for mixing SC with Kroil, as a nice room conditioning par'fum)

    al

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •