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Thread: Precision Matthews Lathe arrived last week

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Mercer Island WA USA
    Posts
    211
    I wish I bought that lathe instead of a PM1236 this year.
    The 1236 has to swap gears to get from small threads to large threads.
    Unfortunately, the break is between 12TPI Mauser and 20 TPI Rem700.
    That is 5 minutes of dirty hands.

    My lathe came with no instructions, and it took hours to unpack and assemble. It was a 1200 pound puzzle.

    After 100 hours, a guy is supposed to change the gear oil. That leaves some questions.

    I got a hold of Matt on the phone yesterday about the PM1236 I bought from him this year.
    I called the receptionist at 1:17 p.m Friday my time and he returned my call an hour later.


    412 787 2876
    sales@machinetoolonline.com

    I asked two questions:
    1) a) What oil, b) how much, c) where to put in?

    a) He said DTE Mobil Heavy medium machine oil.
    I said that I thought we agreed that my gallon of DTE 24 Light hydraulic oil was good.

    He said that was a little light, unless my shop is cold.

    I said that it never gets below 40 degrees in the shop, but the machine take 35 seconds to reach top r.p.m. when starting and I can smell the V belts straining with all that torque. It takes 5 seconds immediately there after. The oil must get be getting heated by the motor.

    He said that the light machine oil may be better for me then.

    I asked if there was something in between.

    He said the Mobil DTE medium machine oil is almost impossible to find.

    b) He said it goes in two places. There is an observation hole by the chuck for the top and an observation hole for the bottom on the front. He said to fill the bottom, you take out the Allen wrench plug under the cover. Then you put it back in and fill through the other Allenhole until the observation hole looks good.

    c) He said it is 2.25 gallons for the top and ~ .5 gallons for the bottom, so 3 gallons will do the machine.

    2) I asked about the bottom of my steady rest. He said he would replace it. I need to send him the old base. He offered to give me his UPS account number.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Tidewater, Virginia
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by Clark View Post
    c) He said it is 2.25 gallons for the top and ~ .5 gallons for the bottom, so 3 gallons will do the machine.
    I think my Grizzly G4003G gunsmithing lathe is very similar to the PM1236.
    I seem to remember that I added less than 1 gallon to my headstock, I am thinking 3.75 QUARTS. I could be wrong, but you can keep a check on the sight glass.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    25
    Quote Originally Posted by Clark View Post

    My lathe came with no instructions, and it took hours to unpack and assemble. It was a 1200 pound puzzle.
    I see. I guess the 1440 comes assembled yes? That doesn't bother me. Just have to learn the lathe and I did get the assembly instructions from the M man.

    Quote Originally Posted by Clark View Post
    I got a hold of Matt on the phone yesterday about the PM1236 I bought from him this year.
    I called the receptionist at 1:17 p.m Friday my time and he returned my call an hour later.
    His company is very customer service oriented. If you google the lathe you find all sorts of interesting threads about this man. Pretty much all good and believable. No bull.

    Quote Originally Posted by Clark View Post
    412 787 2876
    sales@machinetoolonline.com

    I asked two questions:
    1) a) What oil, b) how much, c) where to put in?
    There's some threads on other forums concerning this as well (like CPF). If you have to mess with draining and refilling the levels I learned from these forums is A) Don't overfill and B) Matt's advice seems to work well overall.

    I can't provide testimony as so far I'm still fabricating the base for my Lath and before that I have to fabricate a Welding Cart . . . . you see . . . . I'm building a shop one day at a time.

    Quote Originally Posted by Clark View Post
    2) I asked about the bottom of my steady rest. He said he would replace it. I need to send him the old base. He offered to give me his UPS account number.
    Quality Machine Tools appears to stand behind these lathes as far as I can tell. Every time I've needed something from them they follow through. That is to say, as hard as it is to believe now days, if they tell you they will do something the follow through and actually do what they say.



    Hope your lathe has 'turned' out well

    Jon

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    25

    Precision Matthews Lathe: Finished the welding cart!

    Hi All:

    I haven't posted here cause I've been busy working up until this week.

    However!!!

    I just finished the welding cart and so am ready to move onto the base!.

    I've posted some pix. There are some minor details I'll have to attend to; pull handle, cord minder, etc. I also have to put in some expanded metal on the two open ares.

    I show my combo machine and my Millermatic 180. I also tried to illustrate the various attachment bands; one vertical and one horizontal. Gas goes at the rear. I think I'll attach a 120 power strip as well as a vise receiver made out of square tubing.

    Anyway, I finally am done with this part!
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  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Mercer Island WA USA
    Posts
    211
    It turns out I was full of S*** about my oil temp.
    I had loose V belts.

    My brother has had a Jet lathe for 10 years and he called Jet about what oil to use for the one gear oil change at 100 hours.
    He was told that any 30 weight will do, but it has to be non detergent.

    His 10 year old Jet lathe has 80% parts interchangeability with my PM1236.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    25

    PM lathe is now mounted

    Hi All:

    I now have my new lathe mounted on the bases. This was an interesting exercise. I used the assembly manual that Matt and his crew created. The document was very useful but anticipated I'd done this before.

    As a result it was more a general interpretation of what Matt would do than the specific information I'd need to assemble and install the lathe. For instance, there was no info about the specific Center of Gravity. Nor was there any indication that you could sling directly to the bed casting going under and behind the leadscrew and other rods. I followed the manual and used a 2x6 block. This was unnecessary and caused about 1hr of additional work. Why? because the block had to be just the right length to allow the sling to miss the traversing rods AND not hang me up on the chip pan.

    Anyway, it got done with the help of my wife and the horseshoer.

    To start with I had to position the sling and hoist after raising the pallet high enough to get the hoist base under the pallet.







    Below is a detail of the block of wood with the sling positioned away from the lead screw.



    Now I began to hoist, dropping and repositioning the sling as needed to locate the CG. When this was done I started hoisting . . . only to realize the hoist would not elevate the lathe high enough to clear the chip pan.



    note the length of the chain and hook. This needed to be eliminated and the sling was bound directly to the hoist boom. This permitted the hoist to raise the lathe high enough to mount.



    THe next problem was with the lathe slung in this way, the hoist could NOT be maneuvered directly over the bolt holes of the bases. It was about 6" away (in the horizontal length of the bed) from being directly over the bolt holes. Thus, with the lathe slung in the fashion dictated by the manual, I could not get the hoist base around the lathe base with the lathe positioned correctly!! I either had to move the sling towards the tailstock and find a way to balance it (as that would put me off-center) or make a tool that would allow the hoist to directly attach to the lathe.

    In the end my wife and her horseshoer and I got the job done and the lathe was sealed and mounted to the bases. This process took me from 5am until 10am to accomplish. In the end everything went fine.

    I have now completed the sheet metal below the chip-pan, the coolant pump installation and the beginning of the brake installation. I must have misplaced the actuator arm that links the brake shaft with the mechanical brake in the headstock. However I phoned Matt and he's sending me a replacement free of charge including shipping. No big deal just great customer service and progressive attitude about how important customers are!!!!



    OK. That's where I am now. I have to learn how to use the taper attachment. Any one have experience with these? Below is a picture of mine that was included with the purchase of the 1340.



    In closing a word to the wise . . . look carefully at this procedure and compare it with the procedures outlined in other threads. I will eventually move this lathe out of the garage into a shop. When that day comes I will fabricate a tool that allows me to position the hoist correctly. I'll post pictures when that day comes!!

    Please give me feedback on what you think and any advise about finishing the installation

    Thanks and God Bless.

    Jon

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Mercer Island WA USA
    Posts
    211
    Jon,
    Great post.
    A similar post on Candlepower this summer got me to order a PM1236 from Matt.
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=216408

    Those guys that build flashlights did not tell me some things that guys that thread barrels might.

    I ordered it on March 12 2009 and it arrived on July 25.
    It got to my house near Seattle about 5 days after it got from China to PA.
    There were no instructions of any use.
    There are two gear boxes that need oil and a no-detergent oil change after 100 hours: 1) The headstock spindle gears, 2) The feed gears.
    There is an electrical lockout on the left side cover. In order to quickly adjust the belts or spider I built, I had to by pass the switch.
    Making a right side of the headstock spider for D1-4 headstock is not easy.
    It requires simple gear change to go from Rem700 threads to 98Mauser threads, see picture.


    The Chinese 3 jaw that came with it is so accurate, it has thwarted my plans to upgrade.
    The foot brake is nice.
    The DRO is nice
    I gave the Chinese lumber that was used to crating to a woodworker.
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  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    So. Central PA. Most rifle shooting at Shippensburg Fish and Game.
    Posts
    584
    Quote Originally Posted by Clark View Post
    Making a right side of the headstock spider for D1-4 headstock is not easy.
    It's a piece of cake. This one took an afternoon to make - it bolts to the same backing plate as my 4J.



    The key to making it easy is to put the 4 bolts that attach the spider plate to the back plate on a bolt circle that is enough larger than bolt circle for the three dowel pins that hold the backing plate to the spindle that they don't interfere with each other.

    Fitch

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Mercer Island WA USA
    Posts
    211
    Fitch,
    OK, I could do it that way.
    Clark

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2
    i have purchased the birmingham KGY-1440 GH lathe and have a question. the directions are terrible for assembly. i am having problems with the foot brake assembly. can anyone send a picture of the inside where they hooked it all up. the only way i can make it halfway work is to mount it opposite as to the installation picture. any pics or response would be appreciated. simstrey@yahoo.com

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    22
    Take a look at the Grizzly website for the 0709G lathe. It's the same lathe. They have the operators/owners manual that you can download.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    25
    If you don't get results from the grizzly lathe send me a PM and I'll tell you how I did it.

    Jon

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    22
    Jon, now that you've had this lathe for awhile, how do you like it? Have you done much work with it?

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    25
    Hi Bryan:

    It's done very well. I haven't any problems with the actual mechanics of the machine. It seems to be very accurate. I did have a screw on the Gib fall out because the machining of it was not capable of seating the head. I contacted Matt and, even though the machine is under warranty, I have never received any response in terms of fixing it. It is the best deal for what you get I have found and/or heard of in a NEW lathe. Auctions are cheaper for USED lathes. Are you thinking of getting one or are you an owner?
    Sometimes I wish I had purchased the 14X40. At the time I didn't have the dough. By the way, the DRO offered by Quality Machine Tools has some idiosyncrasies. Keep the manual for it if you buy the DRO and don't lose it.

    Jon

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Mercer Island WA USA
    Posts
    211
    Quote Originally Posted by Cal5210 View Post
    i have purchased the birmingham KGY-1440 GH lathe and have a question. the directions are terrible for assembly. i am having problems with the foot brake assembly. can anyone send a picture of the inside where they hooked it all up. the only way i can make it halfway work is to mount it opposite as to the installation picture. any pics or response would be appreciated. simstrey@yahoo.com
    It is good thing you had me shine a light in there. I have a screw loose
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