need help with muzzle brake?
HAVE 300 WIN MAG. KICKS LIKE A MULE.GUN IS A 700 SENDERO WITH KREIGER S/S BARREL 1-9 TWIST.I SHOOT 210GR VLDS AND 220GR MKS. DONT CARE IF IT IS LOUD. LOOKING FOR A VERY EFFICIENT BRAKE. NEED INFO ASAP
Personally I like the brakes by Shawn Carlock at Defenive Edge, in Idaho.
I remember reading some articles on brakes that were developed for the Army - declassified information. Baffles brakes tend to have the highest efficiency in the 70 to 80% range. Usually you need at least two baffles to get this efficiency, a third only adds about another 5%. The baffles need to be at least 10x caliber in area, more is better, but there is a point efficiency falls off. Ideally, you have a rolling curve to redirect the gas back, like on the WWII tanks. If I remember correctly the first baffle should be one caliber from the muzzle and the second baffle two calibers. Brakes like those for Barrett 50 cal look like this, although they are evenly spaced. Perforated brakes, the ones with all the holes in them, tend to perform in the 40-50% range of efficiency. Hole types didn't seem to make much difference, lots of small holes, or few large ones. If you go with a perferated brake, make sure it isn't too small in diameter, ie, don't reduce diameter to match barrel diameter, unless you have a bull barrel. I have seen brakes ruptured on high pressure calibers like the 300Mag when cut too thin.
I don't have a lot of experience with different manufacturers. But based on what I read, something like the JP Enterprise baffle brake would probably have high efficiency.
The two baffle brake was used a lot in the past, and still is, on military cannon. I have heard claims of some people who have developed perferated brakes for the military that are as efficient, but I am not convinced its possible.
The Barret brake looks maybe a bit nicer than the JP Enterprise but I don't think the sell the brake individually.
I've always been fascinated on how well a good brake reduces recoil. But there tends to be a lot of hype, and few real performace tests comparing the various offerings.
One last thing, a brake is a gas pressure device. It has limited ability to work with low weight charges and low pressure. High volume high pressure gas makes it work best. So while a 45-70 would have some benefit, your 300 Mag would excellent. Even then, use the slower burn rate powders to get max gas volume.
Interested in what others have to say.
This is the site for declassified military articles.
Will the gun be used in registered 1000 yard competition? If so generally you can't use a brake that directs the gases back towards the firing line like a JP Enterprise. Any type brake makes it absolutely mandatory you wear some type ear protection or hearing damage is quite likely.
Originally Posted by LongRangeHunter
Do you do your own machine work? Will you be installing the brake yourself? I make my own brakes. If interested in what I do you can email me.
I have a KDF break on a 300 Tommahawk, 300RUM Improved. I shoot a 240SMK at almost 2900fps and it has noticably less recoil than my 25-06 Mountain rifle shooting a 100 grain Bullet. More recoil than a 243 though. The Tommahawk weighs about 14Lbs and the Mountain Rifle is in the 10.5Lb range. This might be a little help if your looking for some type of a comaparison.
will be hunting with this gun and target shooting not at matches.i will be having a gunsmith installing it for me.i need links to the brakes manufacturer.thanks
Shawn makes a GREAT brake but here is one more to look at;
Every rifle I have is muzzle braked and I have personally used a number of different makes of muzzle brakes.
The JPRifles recoil eliminator is by far the most efficient of ones I have used. The bigger the caliber, the better it works - more gas hitting the baffles.
In addition, you can send your barrelled action to JP and he will install it on your rifle and do a terrific job. He has done 5 for me and a number for my friends. On a stainless barrel he does a good job of matching the brake to the barrel. He has pretty fast turnaround as well.
They are not pretty, but will do an amazing job of pulling the recoil out and making the rifle enjoyable to shoot. I have a JP on a 300 Weatherby Magnum and the rilfe is a a pleasure to shoot.
In case anyone is interested, Troy Newlon (Newlon Precision) will have a book out on muzzle brakes in the next week or so. It will cover the history, function, installation, types and lots of other details.
Harrell Pres. the powder Measure people makes one, that works as good as anyones. I think about $40.00.
LRH, Ive got a new JP 428S I'd part with very reasonably if your interested in it.Should fit the sendero barrel contour nicely.
On the 50 bmg round the Armalite brake and the K-P which are both clamshell type brakes with baffles far out perform the rest.They have done the testing on most brakes and these two are always the best.You can get the test results by buying there magazine its called Very High Power and is available as individual copies.
Go to THE WWW.FCSA.ORG website and look at which magazines are still available.
Remember these are 50 BMG's and I don't know if the brakes are available in 30 caliber.
I think I have installed hundreds of brakes over the last 40 years.. they will all reduce recoil considerably. Some are noisier than others, some are better looking than others...
Here are two brakes I favour today... the top one is a design I had been making for a few years and Shrewd began making them in a blank form requiring very little alteration for different calibers. The holes are slightly angled forward to help keep the noise forward... it is not as noisy as many brakes and reduces recoil very well. The bottom brake is by Vais brakes and is patented... it is quieter as well. It does not reduce the recoil quite as much as the top brake but there is very little difference. I fitted the Shrewd brake flush with the larger barrel. Both are thread on for ease of cleaning...
Picture here > http://www3.telus.net/drswebspace/GU...es%20angle.jpg