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Thread: 6 PPC from 220 Russian Lapua

  1. #31
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    Iím going to try these ammo boxes...

    https://www.amazon.com/Caldwell-Ammo.../dp/B00RPAGOAS

  2. #32
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by nksmfamjp View Post
    iím going to try these ammo boxes...

    https://www.amazon.com/caldwell-ammo.../dp/b00rpagoas
    get the 22 hornet plastic boxes trim top part fits over loaded round place empy in box bullet end first and your set for ever.

  3. #33
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by billbrawand View Post
    get the 22 hornet plastic boxes trim top part fits over loaded round place empy in box bullet end first and your set for ever.
    for ppc. And maybe br cases.

  4. #34
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    So, yesterday, I had 2 in 10 that wouldnít fire. I sized them just enough to close the bolt handle without force. I seated to where I was 0.001Ē shorter than the click from primary extraction.

    It was cold at the range. I donít think there is grease in the firing pin area, but maybe by the cocking piece...Iím checking that tonight. Firing pin protrusion looks 0.030Ē -0.040Ē, but I havenít measured.

    Other thoughts? I hit these primers 5-10 times before giving up. I hate loosing brass, but I wonít work on a hit primer. I only have 5 fingers as it is!

  5. #35
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    You can pull the bullets and see if there is powder in the case. Another thing that might cause the primer not to ignite, is from oil in the case. Some primers are more sensitive to being killed by oil or water , depending on the brand of primer. Take a Q tip and dry out the bottom of the brass if that is the issue. Make double sure that you are not sticking a bullet in the barrel if one of those rounds doesn't go all the way off. We need all the benchrest shooters that we can get.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurtis Brown View Post
    You can pull the bullets and see if there is powder in the case. Another thing that might cause the primer not to ignite, is from oil in the case. Some primers are more sensitive to being killed by oil or water , depending on the brand of primer. Take a Q tip and dry out the bottom of the brass if that is the issue. Make double sure that you are not sticking a bullet in the barrel if one of those rounds doesn't go all the way off. We need all the benchrest shooters that we can get.

    I wanted to do that, but I wonít work on a hit primer that didnít fire.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by nksmfamjp View Post
    So, yesterday, I had 2 in 10 that wouldnít fire. I sized them just enough to close the bolt handle without force. I seated to where I was 0.001Ē shorter than the click from primary extraction.

    It was cold at the range. I donít think there is grease in the firing pin area, but maybe by the cocking piece...Iím checking that tonight. Firing pin protrusion looks 0.030Ē -0.040Ē, but I havenít measured.

    Other thoughts? I hit these primers 5-10 times before giving up. I hate loosing brass, but I wonít work on a hit primer. I only have 5 fingers as it is!
    Just for giggles, compare the length (base to shoulder) of your fired and unfired cases. You can use a brass "thingy" or a Hornady headspace gauge or what ever you are using to measure length. If they are the same or within a thousand or two, then we'll have to look further. You said that you sized the case just enough to close the bolt. Was this with the firing pin assembly in place or not? Just trying to eliminate possibilities.

    Rick

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greyfox View Post
    Just for giggles, compare the length (base to shoulder) of your fired and unfired cases. You can use a brass "thingy" or a Hornady headspace gauge or what ever you are using to measure length. If they are the same or within a thousand or two, then we'll have to look further. You said that you sized the case just enough to close the bolt. Was this with the firing pin assembly in place or not? Just trying to eliminate possibilities.

    Rick
    I checked them all, but the 220 Russian shoulder doesnít seem to provide a great false shoulder.

    Iím looking at protrusion and excess lube first.

    Then I got maybe a 0.001-0.002Ē longer to make that a tighter fit.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by nksmfamjp View Post
    I wanted to do that, but I wonít work on a hit primer that didnít fire.
    I'd get them out of the house asap then.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Coots View Post
    I'd get them out of the house asap then.
    Left them at range in the trash.

  11. #41
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    You'll probably have better luck if you don't bump the shoulder back quite so far next time.

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by nksmfamjp View Post
    So, yesterday, I had 2 in 10 that wouldnít fire. I sized them just enough to close the bolt handle without force. I seated to where I was 0.001Ē shorter than the click from primary extraction.

    It was cold at the range. I donít think there is grease in the firing pin area, but maybe by the cocking piece...Iím checking that tonight. Firing pin protrusion looks 0.030Ē -0.040Ē, but I havenít measured.

    Other thoughts? I hit these primers 5-10 times before giving up. I hate loosing brass, but I wonít work on a hit primer. I only have 5 fingers as it is!
    Uh, don't worry about it. Just go slow. I have removed lots of primers and re primed. Win and Fed always fire. Wolf mostly not.....
    If they had a good dent. They are safe. But, done.

    You do know, that you have to "prime the primer"....The face of the primer is a little below the head. About a .001" or so....
    If you look at an unprimed primer the anvil sticks out a little, from the cup. That anvil has to be seated/primed to the primer pocket.

    Get this. and you don't damage the bullets. http://www.pmatool.com/pma-tool-bull...pc-br-grendel/
    dump powder, re charge, reseat bullet good to go....
    Last edited by zippy06; 03-04-2021 at 12:26 AM.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurtis Brown View Post
    You can pull the bullets and see if there is powder in the case. Another thing that might cause the primer not to ignite, is from oil in the case. Some primers are more sensitive to being killed by oil or water , depending on the brand of primer. Take a Q tip and dry out the bottom of the brass if that is the issue. Make double sure that you are not sticking a bullet in the barrel if one of those rounds doesn't go all the way off. We need all the benchrest shooters that we can get.
    Old wives tale. There is a thin membrane on the compound. Keeps powder dry. I tried the water and oil contamination. Let em sit for a week.
    They still fired.

  14. #44
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    What brand

    Quote Originally Posted by nksmfamjp View Post
    So, yesterday, I had 2 in 10 that wouldnít fire. I sized them just enough to close the bolt handle without force. I seated to where I was 0.001Ē shorter than the click from primary extraction.

    It was cold at the range. I donít think there is grease in the firing pin area, but maybe by the cocking piece...Iím checking that tonight. Firing pin protrusion looks 0.030Ē -0.040Ē, but I havenít measured.

    Other thoughts? I hit these primers 5-10 times before giving up. I hate loosing brass, but I wonít work on a hit primer. I only have 5 fingers as it is!


    Of primers were you using, CCI BR4 or 450? And were the primers seated with a slight crush?? WD

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by WyleWD View Post
    Of primers were you using, CCI BR4 or 450? And were the primers seated with a slight crush?? WD
    The primers were CCI 400ís. Iím holding the 450ís as an option for when I go to accuracy loads. Using CFE223 also as a fireform powder.

    I seat with the K&M tool. I adjust to where I can seat by feel and seat one to a slight crush. Then I set it to the setting when the handle touches the body. I get a slight ďcrushĒ on each one. It seems quit consistent in appearance and feel.

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