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Thread: Rimfire BR barrel maintenance.

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    maine
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    22
    Quote Originally Posted by tim View Post
    Remember, the solvent is what you want in the bore....with a brush and good guide, C4 only in the throat.
    Tim,

    PM on the way...

    Thanks,

    George

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    55
    The C4 does indeed work, been using it since it became available, cleaning confirmed with a bore scope in my rim fire rifle, I clean the entire bore with it and haven't had a brush in mine in a good while. The "L" shaped brushes used in the chamber are a no-no, especially an over sized one, I would never use one in a rifle of mine.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    71
    I'll get some C4 and hold off on using a brush, that doesn't surprise me, most precision rifle guys look at brushes like like the devil.

    What types of jags and accessories do you guys like? I've already got a nice 1 piece fiberglass rod. Currently I've just got a cheapo patch jag and have the VFG cleaning pellet system.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    106
    [QUOTE=zanemoseley;833260]I'll get some C4 and hold off on using a brush, that doesn't surprise me, most precision rifle guys look at brushes like like the devil.

    Really?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    71
    Yes really, precision pistols shooters still use brushes with no stigma attached, if you mention brushes in the company of precision rifle shooters most act like you're ruining your barrel. That's why I asked so I'm following the best recommended practices. In my F class barrel I've had decent results with foaming bore cleaner and no brushes.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    106
    I see the confusion here. When you post on a benchrest sub-forum and mention precision, a benchrest shooter automatically thinks 'benchrest'. In benchrest, while having an accurate system is very important, precise shot placement is just as important. Benchrest shooters very much consider the game as precision shooting. An opinion may be, much more precise than any other rimfire game.

    I normally, when the season is normal (no covid-19), shoot two sanctioned matches or more every weekend during the outdoor season. ARA Ult or IR50/50 3-gun. I buy bronze benchrest quality bore brushes in 12 packs and ware one out every weekend. So do a bunch of other benchrest guys. I use Bore Tech Proof Positive jags with 1-1/8" patches. A proper bore guide is not an option, it's required.

    Hope you find this helpful.
    Last edited by doclu60; 03-28-2020 at 08:53 PM.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    upstate, N.Y.
    Posts
    2,745
    Quote Originally Posted by zanemoseley View Post
    I'll get some C4 and hold off on using a brush, that doesn't surprise me, most precision rifle guys look at brushes like like the devil.

    What types of jags and accessories do you guys like? I've already got a nice 1 piece fiberglass rod. Currently I've just got a cheapo patch jag and have the VFG cleaning pellet system.
    You need to study up friend. "Most precision guys" ???
    If you go to a serious benchrest match , CF or RF you will see plenty of top flight shooters using solvent/brushes.
    Also, FWIW take the fiberglass rod ( whatever that is) and make a nice lamp out of it.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    71
    I looked, my rods are Tipton Deluxe 1pc carbon fiber rods. What rods do you prefer? What is considered a bench rest quality brush, I've used a lot of Pro Shot brushes, are they decent?

  9. #24
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    Feb 2003
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    upstate, N.Y.
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    2,745
    Tiptons work.
    Any quality bronze brush is fine. No steel cores.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    North Eastern Australia
    Posts
    180
    Considering that there is no known solvent for carbon a brush makes good sense.

    All the products that I have tried just soften the deposits but still require a brush to remove the crud.

    * doggie *

  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by doghunter View Post
    Considering that there is no known solvent for carbon a brush makes good sense.

    All the products that I have tried just soften the deposits but still require a brush to remove the crud.

    * doggie *
    Hey doggie,
    Please refer to post #11 by Landy. Short stroking with my normal jag and a patch that is wet with C4 will easily remove the carbon in the leade area. Be sure to push 2 wet patches before you do that to remove spent primer material, which is very abrasive.

    I used to brush my bore in between every card when match shooting before Tim suggested C4 on another board. Now I brush every other card, or third card, depending on round count.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by zanemoseley View Post
    I looked, my rods are Tipton Deluxe 1pc carbon fiber rods. What rods do you prefer? What is considered a bench rest quality brush, I've used a lot of Pro Shot brushes, are they decent?
    I know a couple of guys using Tipton Carbon fiber rods, most use polished stainless rods. Pro Shot, Ivey (out of business?), Stiller (PQP?), Bore Tech, etc.

    Tim nailed it, no steel core brushes. Beanchrest brush has 2 specs in my mind. Brass wound center core that is looped on the end, back into it's self, and no cut end core wire. Sinclair used to market a great brush, but since Brownells bought them out and the original stock ran out, they substitute Dewey brand. I have switched back to Pro Shot. The brush they market as 'benchrest' is the one to get. Buying the 12 pack lowers cost.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    upstate, N.Y.
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    One last brush tip that nobody really talks about. Just about every single BR brush out there is bent @ the ferule.
    Screw it on the rod and the take the rod and rest it on your shoulder with the brush a good 2' out front and get your eye down near rod and spin it in your fingers.....watch the wobble. Some of them are terrible, you can see which way they are out.....just push it with your thumb until it spins straight, takes a few seconds. Keeps them running centered down that expensive/soft SS match bbl.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by tim View Post
    One last brush tip that nobody really talks about. Just about every single BR brush out there is bent @ the ferule.
    Screw it on the rod and the take the rod and rest it on your shoulder with the brush a good 2' out front and get your eye down near rod and spin it in your fingers.....watch the wobble. Some of them are terrible, you can see which way they are out.....just push it with your thumb until it spins straight, takes a few seconds. Keeps them running centered down that expensive/soft SS match bbl.
    Something I have done for several years. Excellent advise for those wishing to learn more about proper barrel maintenance. Nice post Tim.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    71
    I need to buy a bore guide for my custom Anschutz 1913, I was looking at these which utilize swappable bushings.

    http://www.mwerksllc.com/anschutz.php

    So I've got both lengths of the 22 cal Pro Shot carbon rods, the shorter might work but due to the stock profile it might push me to use the long rod. The rods average about .202" but in some spots get up to .205. I also use these rods on my 6br.

    When I had a guy make me a custom bore guide for my Savage 12br in 6br he made it so tight I can't use a brush with it but if he bored it to match the .205 rods going with a .243 brush is quite a jump. Should I have the guy for the Anschutz guide bore it to .225 or larger so I can run a brush through it.

    You can see where I'm getting confused, several F class people had me thinking brushes were frowned upon and you guys sound like you brush regularly even during a match. The Anschutz bore guide like above says they typically make the opening only .002" larger than the cleaning rod.

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