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Thread: Pillar to action mating surfaces

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Kielly View Post
    Here in Australia, we pretty well standardised bedding for the Omark target action (round action like the Remmy), by running a strip of masking tape a tad wider than the action screw holes along the centre of the action & similar strips somewhat down from the waterline prior to bedding. This resulted in a bed via two strips that reasonably emulated a V block.

    Benefits were:

    • Consistent bedding
    • Elimination of the round action propensity to flog at the alignment of the screws & loosen up at the sides of the bedding when used with target weight barrels.
    This thread is the first Iíve heard of this method and really like it. Iím definitely trying it

  2. #32
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    So, Australiaís method is the opposite of the other. Thatís if Iím reading them right.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Tooley View Post
    Al
    How wide do they have to be to be called V blocks?
    To me, vee block means the center is suspended ie not touching the pillars. When you suck it down it "pulls" instead of just setting on top of the pillar

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by parshal View Post
    So, Australiaís method is the opposite of the other. Thatís if Iím reading them right.
    That's what I'm reading too.....

    And I myself NEVER want the screws to suck the action down to stop on something hard, IMO steel is like rubber, the screw tension pulls or "puckers out" the metal around the hole. I run the tape right down the center.

  5. #35
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    Now I am confused.

    So what is the actual purpose of pillar bedding?

    I always presumed that they could compensate for a change in stock dimensions (humidity etc) and as long as one torqued the action screws the same each time then things would be sweet.

    They must have a use, so could somebody please explain just how they work.

    * doggie *

  6. #36
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    Bedding

    All of these comments are interesting and I am sure that we all have tried different methods over the years to settle on what works for our own needs but I think we are missing the most important part of the bedding process, how to check our work. This has not come up yet in this thread and to all if you do not check your work when finished with the job to make sure it is correct it is for nothing.
    Take your best bedding job (we are talking about screwed in actions) and mount an indicator between the barrel and stock then crack the front action screw....if it jumps more than a couple thou at the most it needs to be redone.
    The object of bedding an action is to remove any stresses and have a mating surface that repeats that after it is removed from the stock and reinstalled. It is to isolate the action from influences in humidity changes (wood stocks) , this is where the pillars come into play. Composite stocks, the configuration and what fill they use is another animal, pillars are necessary in my opinion for most. (also no contact of action screws with pillars)

    My heavy varmint 30BR was built in 2005, 5 piece walnut laminate (I like wood, it is a feel thing), pillar bedded with Devcon aluminum, complete poured pillars and isolated from any wood contact, still to this day the bedding is good. My Panda LV 6 PPC/ 30BR in a carbon fiber/ redwood stock never moves when braking the front action screw, combo of turned aluminum pillars and Devcon. There is a list of others, most hunting/ varmint rifles over the years.........
    ( Iím not a fan of glue in actions) I am not saying anything bad about glue in's it is just they are not my thing, just stating .


    Rick

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    Get 'em close, leave a gap and fill the gap with bedding material. Gap too thin, bedding material will break, flake out, NOT do it's job of mating surfaces to equalize pressure. Too thick??? Well, here's a whole nuther kettle a' wurms.....
    A thickness of bedding material above the pillars is effective and durable. With the bedding material I use, .035 is the minimum. As far as too thick.....I've used it right to the top of the action screw escutcheon on sporter style stocks that want to have an original look. On a BR or accuracy rig, it's easier to eliminate an escutcheon and counter bore the pillar for a button head screw.

    Good shootin'. -Al

  8. #38
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    Speaking of escutcheons, what do you guys use to countersink for the head? 82deg drill or put her in the lathe and use a cutting tool?

  9. #39
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    I use a piloted counterbore with a 5/16 pilot (assuming .250 action screws). - Al

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Nyhus View Post
    I use a piloted counterbore with a 5/16 pilot (assuming .250 action screws). - Al
    Are you matching the 82deg action screw head or using a head that matches the escutcheon?

  11. #41
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    I hate angled mating surfaces of standard action screws. There is precious little contact and if the pillar isn't in there correctly, the screw goes wonky until the angles finally match up. Certainly, there is enough tolerance in the threads to accomodate this...but then why go through all the work of getting the pillars in perfectly in the first place? My first choice is always a counter bored pillar using a flanged button head screw for maximum contact.

    When forced to use the angled style screw, I've had good luck with these. There's a lot of contact area and the trigger guard uses a small screw that threads into the recessed Allen head of the action screw. That way, the trigger guard plays no part in the bedding. This gun was a LV 30BR Panda of mine that Stan Ware did a 'Pand-iak' recoil lug conversion on (cross between a Panda and a Kodiak). Pics aren't the greatest but hopefully this gets the idea across.







    Last edited by Al Nyhus; 01-18-2020 at 06:28 PM.

  12. #42
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    Here's a better view of a counter bored pillar. A flanged button head screw gives plenty of contact between the under head of the screw and the pillar. The hole in the pillar is 5/16 and a flanged Delrin sleeve (.312 O.D./.250 I.D.) fits in the counter bored hole in the pillars and precisely locates the action screw guide pins. When the sleeves are removed, the screws are perfectly centered with .031 clearance all around.





    Guide pins protruding through the sleeves as the bedding sets up:



    Here, you can see the pillars about .125 below the bedding. I use a .125 spacer between the action and pillars, do the bedding, then add a dab of bedding to the top of the pillars and put the barrelled action back in to finish the bedding:

    Last edited by Al Nyhus; 01-18-2020 at 10:54 PM.

  13. #43
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    Interesting. Thanks for the pics, Al. Always easier to understand

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    Interesting. Thanks for the pics, Al. Always easier to understand

    Listen to Al as he has been around the farm and still hasn't fallen off the turnip truck.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butch Lambert View Post
    Listen to Al as he has been around the farm and still hasn't fallen off the turnip truck.
    If a person pays attention it doesn't take long to figure out the people to pay close attention to. Funny thing most of them choose to use their real name.

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