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Thread: Pillar to action mating surfaces

  1. #16
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    Feb 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by penn63 View Post
    If the action does not make contact with the pillars, and sits on the bedding only, then why have pillars to begin with?
    If the bedding compound doesn't move after it sets up, why do the pillars need to be in direct contact with the action?

    Good shootin'. -Al

  2. #17
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    I always thought pillars were used only in wood stocks.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick A. View Post
    When I started bedding in the early 70's the entire job was done with Devcon aluminum, I still to this day do my personal bedding jobs this way. It was a 3 time (most of the time and some times 4) job, pillars then complete action area and final was a skim coat to finish. (The exception has been on BR stocks of Red Wood that I was concerned with weight)
    When drilling a 5/8 hole in the back thru the stock and a ĺ hole thru the stock on the front action screw then pour with Devcon aluminum and getting it to stay in place is to say the least fun!
    .... I have had the turned pillars come loose, my fault or so I think due to prep on them and this is one reason I still do not like them. Can't say they are a bad way to go or the way to go but for me the pouring is the most positive way even though time consuming.

    Just my 2 cents........

    Rick
    This works great other than I use epoxy resin with glass powder to make it into a putty....^^^^^^^^^ and a grommet on bottom for screws to pull against
    Last edited by geo.ulrich; 01-15-2020 at 06:54 PM.

  4. #19
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    Feb 2006
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    Wilcox, PA
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    165

    Cool Pillars are for keep screws tight not to touch metal WOOD SKRINCS SCREWS LOOSENS

    Wood skrints
    Quote Originally Posted by mram10 View Post
    thanks. I was trying to mimic a glue in one piece unit in my mind. Iím good at screwing up

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    353
    Get the chainsaw out Bill.
    Get the chainsaw out.

  6. #21
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    Dec 2003
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    washington.........STATE that is.
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    it's a bitter nite. spitting a nasty stinging, sleety snow. i just stepped out to pee and something in the woods was letting me and everything else know it was peeved.....


    skREEEEE!! Skreee k k k . . . SKREEEE!!!!!


    I figgered it was a miserable Saw Whet, or mebbeso a Hide-Behind.....






    now I'm thinking wood skrink.... prolly was a wood skrink

  7. #22
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    Dec 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by geo.ulrich View Post
    This works great other than I use epoxy resin with glass powder to make it into a putty....^^^^^^^^^ and a grommet on bottom for screws to pull against
    I was wondering if normal epoxy mixed with microspheres would work for bedding. I like the grommet idea.

  8. #23
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    Dec 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricco1949 View Post
    I run a light cut 32 TPI on the pillars....005-.010 deep. It raises the surface just enough to provide a snug fit and nice cavities for the epoxy. If they are a little tight they will sometimes turn into the stock cutting the threads as they go in. Never had one come loose.

    I let the pillars sit high in the stock and machine to the desired height after the epoxy has cured.
    Iíve got a bunch of 3/4 bolts. I might machine some up for pillars. Thanks for the idea

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    Iíve got a bunch of 3/4 bolts. I might machine some up for pillars. Thanks for the idea
    Didn't know you got a Makita!

  10. #25
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    Sep 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by parshal View Post
    I'm having a tough time picturing this so please bear with my questions.

    The radius you're cutting with your fly cutter, is that a radius on the top of the pillars?

    The second post sounds like you're covering the entire bottom of the action with the tape so that pillars are "proud" of the stock by the thickness of the tape after bedding. Or, are you taping the sides of the action down to the bottom but leaving a 5/8" strip of "tapeless" action from pillar to pillar thereby having that bedding support the action along with the pillars?
    Yes the radius in on top of the pillar. I cover the entire action except for a 5/8" wide stripe from the recoil lug to the rear of the action passing through the pillars. Sometimes less works out better if you think through it. What's better than holding something in V-blocks.

  11. #26
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    Thanks Dave! That makes complete sense to me.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Tooley View Post
    ......I cover the entire action except for a 5/8" wide stripe from the recoil lug to the rear of the action passing through the pillars.......

    So the entire action is teetering on a 5/8" wide strip of bedding?

    And the sides are free?

    Sounds the exact opposite of a vee block to me. What Am I misunderstanding?

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Tooley View Post
    Yes the radius in on top of the pillar. I cover the entire action except for a 5/8" wide stripe from the recoil lug to the rear of the action passing through the pillars. Sometimes less works out better if you think through it. What's better than holding something in V-blocks.
    Clears it up for me too. Thanks. Might have to try that.

  14. #29
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    Dec 2007
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    Here in Australia, we pretty well standardised bedding for the Omark target action (round action like the Remmy), by running a strip of masking tape a tad wider than the action screw holes along the centre of the action & similar strips somewhat down from the waterline prior to bedding. This resulted in a bed via two strips that reasonably emulated a V block.

    Benefits were:

    • Consistent bedding
    • Elimination of the round action propensity to flog at the alignment of the screws & loosen up at the sides of the bedding when used with target weight barrels.

  15. #30
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    Sep 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    So the entire action is teetering on a 5/8" wide strip of bedding?

    And the sides are free?

    Sounds the exact opposite of a vee block to me. What Am I misunderstanding?
    Al
    How wide do they have to be to be called V blocks?

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