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Thread: Well, This Worked.... (LONG,)

  1. #1
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    Well, This Worked.... (LONG,)

    so don't click and whine, just ignore all you'se TLDR folks

    here's your chance,

    bye







    So my newest regimen in my K.I.S.S. life includes setting up each and every competitive rifle as a separate, free-standing, self-contained entity. That's currently 13 setups all self-supporting. I'm all done switching items, ALL items... even as small as sharing shellholders between say my 6BR setups and a 6X47L or 6.5 or .308. I have collected over the years prolly 20 .473 shellholders, now they're being dedicated to various uses. Dedicated press, dedicated priming tool etc

    Thing is, I shoot at home, a lot. Right from my reloading area. So I'm completely spoil't, for years I've mixed and matched and loaded in place. And since I've only been shooting local 600yd matches preloaded, I've been "getting by."

    But now I'm all DONE with all that mess, gotta' be mobile, stop forgetting stuff at home....

    so now, today for instance I'm tuning my RWB Heavy and I'm using ONLY THE STUFF IN THE RANGEBOX for this gun.

    Well I've a budget, and kids still too young to be kicked out on the street, and a mortgage, and I like to eat.... so having 20 reloading presses and 13-15 priming setups and multiple seaters gets very pricey if I just go out and buy The Good Stuff

    so I don't

    Priming tools has been a bugbear of mine for 30yrs.

    I WANT HOPPER-TYPE TRAY FEED! I have single-feed tools, Good Ones....adjustable and fine..... and I never use 'em.

    I go through a box of primers in minutes, Life Is Short, Then You Die, I'll be happy if I die priming BUT, it's not a goal.

    Back in the 80's I bought 4 RCBS tools and as they wore out I'd call RCBS to buy parts, and they'd send me the parts for free. Over and over. And over.

    But that got old, and I wasn't convinced I was getting consistent seating depths.

    So I tried "everything on the market" and I did find (for me) the perfect tool. I wrote it up here several times. It's the Cabela's branded tool as made by Hornady. STILL the very best in the world for my usage, but as with most things I really like, it went off the market. Knowing this trend in my life, I'd bought 5 tools but they disappeared from the marketplace while I was wearing these out.

    So here I am again, full circle.

    So, I again bought one of everything. (Everything CHEAP that is)

    "I can build anything"

    I'm a 'Roadkill' style hotrodder, I can MOD anything

    The seater I chose for use with my Heavy gun is made by Lyman https://www.lymanproducts.com/e-zee-...d-priming-tool

    Well....

    I "tested it" a few mo back and set it up, even modified it some..... but then when I actually tuned and shot my big gun before a match I did all my loading in the shop, on the old reliable equipment.... but FOR THE MATCH, I loaded from the dedicated field box for that gun.

    And it got me.

    The primers got seated proud in 75 Match loads.

    So I get to the match and I'm forevermore FIGHTING the gun. It acts like the headspace grew back (this has happened to me before) and I'm hammering the gun shut like to gall the bolt lugs on a $2000.00 BAT

    So last night I set out to adjust the seating depth on this (completely non-adjustable) tool.

    I'd been thinking it over for several days. Everything from a custom-built actuator bar (10hrs on the lathe) to shimming it with wear strips or cups and my driver is/was "if I have to spend more than an hour the first time coming up with a 15 minute fix THE MOD IS A FAIL!"

    So, last nite I poured a fresh cuppa', drove out a single pin, brought the actuator bar over to the anvil(s) and commenced to bald peeenussing like a dervish.

    It ended up taking a couple stints with a 3-lber..... the liddle peener weren't stretching it...... but in under 20min of back and forth I'd managed to STRETCH the actuator bar almost ten thou . . . . . . which put the finished product from 3 thou proud of, to recessed below the casehead a couple thousandths.

    And today it's working, my cases fall into the gun, and 20reloads they haven't grown.....

    TOO MUCH WIN!!!


    OK, tummy's full




    back to the grind



    Ohh look, the temp came up and the wind just flattened out to about 3mph.... BETTER GET ON IT!

  2. #2
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    How would you like if I came over to your long, boring threads and acted like you do to me? Try to get to the point quickly so people might care about your posts. Just some friendly advice

  3. #3
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    "I'll be happy if I die priming BUT, it's not a goal."

    Okay with you if I use that as my personal motto? I may change subject somewhat.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    How would you like if I came over to your long, boring threads and acted like you do to me? Try to get to the point quickly so people might care about your posts. Just some friendly advice
    LOL!

    "SAME PLANET, DIFFERENT WORLD"

    I simply can't envision a world where I would care, let alone "like"

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomD View Post
    "I'll be happy if I die priming BUT, it's not a goal."

    Okay with you if I use that as my personal motto? I may change subject somewhat.
    just keep it clean eh..... it's a fam'bly friendly forum

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    it's a fam'bly friendly forum
    ..but not always necessarily a friendly family forum.

  7. #7
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    Al,
    All of the short range guys that I know seat their primers by feel, NOT by depth. All in all, looking at the record books, I would say that their method works pretty well. I never want the squeeze handle on my tools to touch the body of the tool with the primer seated. The only time that I have had a problem was with some of the earlier Lapua .220 Russian brass. They came with too large of a radius at the bottom corner of the pocket, and a standard uniformer would wedge into the pocket on its sides. Fortunately Russ came up with a specialty tool that fixed the problem. It has been a long time since I needed it, but it cleans pockets really well. Have a good one.
    Boyd

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boyd Allen View Post
    Al,
    All of the short range guys that I know seat their primers by feel, NOT by depth. All in all, looking at the record books, I would say that their method works pretty well. I never want the squeeze handle on my tools to touch the body of the tool with the primer seated. The only time that I have had a problem was with some of the earlier Lapua .220 Russian brass. They came with too large of a radius at the bottom corner of the pocket, and a standard uniformer would wedge into the pocket on its sides. Fortunately Russ came up with a specialty tool that fixed the problem. It has been a long time since I needed it, but it cleans pockets really well. Have a good one.
    Boyd
    While I can't in any way disagree with that, my problem was that with this tool completely BURYING the handle left the primers setting proud of the casehead.

    And for myself, once I've got the primers seated down to flush or below and am achieving tiny Extreme Spread figures I'm happy. This particular load, even with the poorly seated and protruding primers still is shooting dead flat waterlines at 600yds when properly tuned it's just that the tall primers were making it hard to get the bolt closed. I was seating the primers with the bolt!

  9. #9
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    The old round tray LEE's would wear to the point they wouldn't push primer far enough. The pushing "arm" was pewter, and the head would wear a groove on it's head. As you did, I take the arm out and start peening the middle of it and it would grow in length so the handle didn't bottom out on the body.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Shaw View Post
    The old round tray LEE's would wear to the point they wouldn't push primer far enough. The pushing "arm" was pewter, and the head would wear a groove on it's head. As you did, I take the arm out and start peening the middle of it and it would grow in length so the handle didn't bottom out on the body.
    Still my favorite priming tool....there over a dozen here and several in my range boxes. They will flip a primer if the primer push rod gets sloppy in the guide hole or the loading chute is too wide. I open up and sleeve the guide hole and they are fool proof after that.

    There's still some NIB ones out there and I grab nice used ones whenever I can. Greg Palman from Maine even sent me a couple, provided I'd put a little extra in the offering plate at church.

    Good shootin'. -Al

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Nyhus View Post
    Still my favorite priming tool....there over a dozen here and several in my range boxes. They will flip a primer if the primer push rod gets sloppy in the guide hole or the loading chute is too wide. I open up and sleeve the guide hole and they are fool proof after that.

    There's still some NIB ones out there and I grab nice used ones whenever I can. Greg Palman from Maine even sent me a couple, provided I'd put a little extra in the offering plate at church.

    Good shootin'. -Al
    Al, you are right about flipping a primer! I haven't done the sleeving before, but I will now! Thanks for the heads up!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Shaw View Post
    Al, you are right about flipping a primer! I haven't done the sleeving before, but I will now! Thanks for the heads up!
    Wayne, I used some thin walled aluminum tubing from a hobby shop. Hope all is well with you! -Al

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Shaw View Post
    The old round tray LEE's would wear to the point they wouldn't push primer far enough. The pushing "arm" was pewter, and the head would wear a groove on it's head. As you did, I take the arm out and start peening the middle of it and it would grow in length so the handle didn't bottom out on the body.
    I have some a those.

    I din't know peening pewter was possible

  14. #14
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    Maybe it's aluminum, it sure is soft.

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