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Thread: Chambering: indicate bore before threading and/or before reamer?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    You are the worst trash talker, man. Come on, you can do better than that! Iím disappointed in you, yet again
    Man, I'm so sad! Give you a little pat on your butt and you don't know how to respond.

  2. #17
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    I'm so happy to see Mram10 isn't all upset here...... that he'll still let Dave know "he can relax in his august presence, that he's just a normal everyday guy, just like Tooley"

    Thanks so much Mram10 for saving some grace for the little people



    When you are dead

    You don't know you are dead

    so it's hard only for others.

    It is the same when you are stupid.

  3. #18
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    Butch Lambert, Dave Tooley, what do you guys know??

    After all you guys have only built a few hundred rifles!!


    .

  4. #19
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    Ohhh, and having had many barrels move while gripped with AL.....pads, wire, flatstock and milled rockers.....I will never use AL as a primary gripping surface again.

    I've also used CU in these various configurations and am very happy with my latest creation wherein I run tie-wire thru 3/8" chunks of 1/4" copper tubing and after tying it to the jaws I SMASH IT onto the barrel surface. I've used the last set of wires on 7 barrels now and haven't had to replace it (which would entail a cost of 8-11min and approximately $.26)

    Speaking of cost....I still have 30-40 70yr-old pennies from my lastest-bestest idea setup (not mine, from Jerry Sharrett) but I just don't have enough hands for Sharrett's method. Man must be an octopus!

    LOL



    That said, I DO check and while even 1/4" CU wire can move if you're not careful. I've never had pennies nor my newest tubing method move.

  5. #20
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    put grease on the pennies to hold them while closing the jaws.

    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    Ohhh, and having had many barrels move while gripped with AL.....pads, wire, flatstock and milled rockers.....I will never use AL as a primary gripping surface again.

    I've also used CU in these various configurations and am very happy with my latest creation wherein I run tie-wire thru 3/8" chunks of 1/4" copper tubing and after tying it to the jaws I SMASH IT onto the barrel surface. I've used the last set of wires on 7 barrels now and haven't had to replace it (which would entail a cost of 8-11min and approximately $.26)

    Speaking of cost....I still have 30-40 70yr-old pennies from my lastest-bestest idea setup (not mine, from Jerry Sharrett) but I just don't have enough hands for Sharrett's method. Man must be an octopus!

    LOL



    That said, I DO check and while even 1/4" CU wire can move if you're not careful. I've never had pennies nor my newest tubing method move.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerrySharrett View Post
    Butch Lambert, Dave Tooley, what do you guys know??

    After all you guys have only built a few hundred rifles!!


    .
    Iíve built a few hundred rifles ....

  7. #22
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    Back to my original question about indicating. Do most do on initial setup only or periodically indicate throughout?

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by retired View Post
    put grease on the pennies to hold them while closing the jaws.


    Yeahh, I tried that. Used to use that for thread wires.... didn't work for me on the pennies.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    Thank you, Sir. Iíve read a lot of threads about your setups and they obviously work.
    It's just good Machine shop practice.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackie schmidt View Post
    It's just good Machine shop practice.
    Definitely my weakness. I never had any training in a real machine shop. Just learned from watching old gunsmiths. I could use real machine shop training.

  11. #26
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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    Back to my original question about indicating. Do most do on initial setup only or periodically indicate throughout?
    I'll go out on a limb. Most just indicate and then turn the tenon to major diameter, thread, cut recess, and chamber. Those that are very particular about straight chambers and or have reason to suspect that the setup is prone to moving re indicate before pre boring the chamber.

    If you want the answer that is right for you, just adopt the practice and see what happens. If you find yourself making adjustments on the second indicating, try other materials for your chuck contact. I agree with Al that aluminum wire is probably not the best choice. Another factor is just how much pressure your machining tool is applying to the tenon. For example: heavy cuts with a larger radius insert, using a parting tool to cut the end of the blank, dull insert, etc. all load the workpiece and might contribute to movement. Remember you have a very small contact area when you cushion the chuck jaws with wire.
    Last edited by SGS; 08-03-2019 at 10:02 AM.

  13. #28
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    Increased gripping surface is a laudable goal BUT...... in my case the ability to pivot is paramount.

    OD is never concentric with ID

    Holes are never bored straight.

    Lathes are never straight.

    Chucks are never straight.

    ((I've watched in awe these huge threads on the "Machinist" forums where guys balance and true and align bore and otherwise mutilate their chucks claiming to be making them "straight" ........ I am daily blown away with folks and their fixations on inconsequential details as being "important" all while thinking machines are "rigid" as if size eliminates flex..... it's nearly as stupid as those threads over on the Yukking It Up Around Ye Jollie Woodpile where guys go on and on about "press alignment" and "making straight reloads" because they spun their case 3-times widdershins in their massive align-bored Hollywood Double-Pumper ))

    Large gripping surfaces tend to transmit their mis-alignments to the workpiece.

    So, for ME, it's a delicate balance betwixt a stress-free swiveling action and adequate gripping force without distorting the squishy barrel. (When the pilot suddenly gets sticky, YOU'RE TOO TIGHT!! .... LOL)

    I build an entire rifle around the 1 inch section of the bore that the bullet sees........ I simply don't CARE how far from center the barrel points, it's pointless to care. I do KNOW where it'll hit, just don't care how crooked it is. I use the crookedyness to my advantage, steering the rifle with it.....Yesterday I found out that a certain barrel I'd fitted to a Neuvo a month ago screwed right into another glued-in setup. I screwed 'er together, checked my notes concerning where that barrel pointed on the other gun, eyeballed my (new) index marks and HELD OFF 7 INCHES on my first shot to put the first bullet within an inch of my last group @ 100yds. Just because....."I Could"

  14. #29
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    I downloaded that a while back, thanks

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    I downloaded that a while back, thanks
    Wow, itís been 10 years since Gary and I did that. I was a young man

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