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Thread: Chambering: indicate bore before threading and/or before reamer?

  1. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bnhpr View Post
    You bolt a chuck to it. The TBAS is just an adjustable intermediate between your chuck and headstock.

    It allows you to indicate a bore using a 3 or 6 jaw.

    You arguably still need the copper wire, because you can still stress the barrel if the OD and ID are not perfectly concentric.

    Also, it obviously increases the distance through the headstock.
    You shouldnít need anything between the chuck jaws and the barrel shank when working on the chamber end. The TBAS is adjustable for angle and concentricity. Iím nut sure how people are holding the taper when working on the muzzle end, but I suspect they are making tapered bushings to match.

  2. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubicon Prec. View Post
    You shouldnít need anything between the chuck jaws and the barrel shank when working on the chamber end. The TBAS is adjustable for angle and concentricity. Iím nut sure how people are holding the taper when working on the muzzle end, but I suspect they are making tapered bushings to match.
    Huhh???

    You know this? That the chuck jaws swivel?

    And if so..... how do lock the jaws to the taper before you jack the chuck?

    I don't think you even grasp the problem....

    "tapered bushings" myass.....


    As I said, I WOULD ORDER ONE TOMORROW..... if it could hold a barrel properly.

    I don't "attempt to reset the centerline on factory actions"..... and I make dies on a collet setup....

    BTW I video'd a barrel setup last nite, got a friggin' STRAIGHT barrel.....

    sucks

    wasted 4 hrs LOL

  3. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bnhpr View Post
    You bolt a chuck to it. The TBAS is just an adjustable intermediate between your chuck and headstock.

    It allows you to indicate a bore using a 3 or 6 jaw.

    You arguably still need the copper wire, because you can still stress the barrel if the OD and ID are not perfectly concentric.

    Also, it obviously increases the distance through the headstock.

    Yeahh.... chuck jaws are somewhat parallel, they're designed to mash down on parallel surfaces.

    I don't work with parallel surfaces, with barrels....

    I have no idea to what you're referring with the "you arguably still need copper wire"

  4. #109
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    BTW, id and od are almost NEVER concentric..... I videotaped a setup last nite, picked a barrel out of the box and the friggin thing WAS concentric, and straight.... and consequently my video shows nothing useful! Except that Krieger barrels are "perfect" just chuck em up between centers and hack away

  5. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    Huhh???

    You know this? That the chuck jaws swivel?

    And if so..... how do lock the jaws to the taper before you jack the chuck?

    I don't think you even grasp the problem....

    "tapered bushings" myass.....
    The entire chuck "swivels" and the backing plate is a set-tru style. If you make a split bushing that is parallel on the OD and tapered to match the ID then grab it with a chuck or collet, it will hold. The chamber end is a non-issue because it's parallel, at least on the barrels I typically work with.

    I think I grasp the "problem" very well.

    Edit: tapered bushings, especially with the taper working away from the cutting force is certainly not as good as grabbing a parallel surface. I found I could push the barrel back if I hogged it with a WNMG 32 like I would bar stock. I now use a VBMT 331 600 sfm, .010 ipr, .015" doc and haven't had an issue since. I can guarantee it is far better than one would get with a spider chuck.
    Last edited by Rubicon Prec.; 01-25-2020 at 04:13 PM.

  6. #111
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    We don't do similar work...... same planet. different worlds.

    I'd glue the stinkin' thing into a pipe looong before I'd try "match" tapers for effectual clamping

    You wanna' talk about bending barrels! Putting things in tension! This presumption that od's and tapers are useful to index from just doesn't fit my worldview


    sorry

    And saving the entire shank just to set up on? Using a barrel with a long shank? I can't normally afford all that mass wadded up near the action ring



    etc



    etc




    As I said..... let's just stick with "it doesn't work for me", I don't need convincing.



    In the same way that 40yrs of my wife telling me "just try it, it's good" doesn't somehow turn broccoli into food

    (I tell her "my food EATS your food".... but she still tries to tell me brussel sprouts are "food")


    and I STILL haven't eaten a vench'table since't I left home....

  7. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post

    I'd glue the stinkin' thing into a pipe looong before I'd try "match" tapers for effectual clamping

    You wanna' talk about bending barrels! Putting things in tension! This presumption that od's and tapers are useful to index from just doesn't fit my worldview
    I'm really confused how you think this would even remotely bend a barrel? And using the TBAS has nothing to do with indexing off the OD of the barrel. I don't think you understand how it works.

  8. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubicon Prec. View Post
    I'm really confused how you think this would even remotely bend a barrel? And using the TBAS has nothing to do with indexing off the OD of the barrel. I don't think you understand how it works.
    I know

  9. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubicon Prec. View Post
    I'm really confused how you think this would even remotely bend a barrel? And using the TBAS has nothing to do with indexing off the OD of the barrel. I don't think you understand how it works.
    Iím interested in this. Iíve not heard of the tbas before. Great explanations. I appreciate you trying to teach us something new.

  10. #115
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    Here is the link to the true bore system. He also has several setup video's showing how it's used. Also make sure it starts at the beginning.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=86xlH0ZOya4&t=18s

  11. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Louis.J View Post
    Here is the link to the true bore system. He also has several setup video's showing how it's used. Also make sure it starts at the beginning.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=86xlH0ZOya4&t=18s


    Louis, are you indicating by the Gordy method or how?

  12. #117
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    Butch I am indicating with guage pins and then re-checking it with indicating the grooves.

  13. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubicon Prec. View Post
    You shouldnít need anything between the chuck jaws and the barrel shank when working on the chamber end. The TBAS is adjustable for angle and concentricity. Iím nut sure how people are holding the taper when working on the muzzle end, but I suspect they are making tapered bushings to match.
    Agreed, if the bore is concentric to the outside of the barrel, or uniformly eccentric at muzzle and breech. Unfortunately, thats not what I have seen with most blanks.

  14. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bnhpr View Post
    Agreed, if the bore is concentric to the outside of the barrel, or uniformly eccentric at muzzle and breech. Unfortunately, thats not what I have seen with most blanks.
    No, the TBAS is particularly designed to take out that non-concentricity as well as lineal misalignment. If the bore were concentric to the outside and straight, a regular chuck would do (well, you'd have the gripping problem...).

    GsT

  15. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post

    We don't do similar work...... same planet. different worlds.

    I'd glue the stinkin' thing into a pipe looong before I'd try "match" tapers for effectual clamping

    You wanna' talk about bending barrels! Putting things in tension! This presumption that od's and tapers are useful to index from just doesn't fit my worldview
    Do you realize that the TBAS has nothing other than gravity acting on the opposite end of the barrel that youíre working on? Itís not exact, but itís probably the setup that closest matches the way a barrel will actually hang off the receiver.

    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    And saving the entire shank just to set up on? Using a barrel with a long shank? I can't normally afford all that mass wadded up near the action ring
    I guess we work on different types of rifles then. Both of which are not matching this pageís title. Buy, FWIW, Iíve built rifles in the 8lb range with scope that are very accurate with a parallel shank long enough to grab with a chuck. That same rifle will probably be used to take critters at very long ranges.

    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    As I said..... let's just stick with "it doesn't work for me", I don't need convincing.
    Iím thinking thatís because you donít quite grasp the concept of the TBAS. No harm. But If holding the part is your main issue, I can promise there are ways to hold a barrel far more securely, and far more stress free than between 4 points at each end (regardless if itís a spider chuck or 4J with a copper wire ring contact).

    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    In the same way that 40yrs of my wife telling me "just try it, it's good" doesn't somehow turn broccoli into food

    (I tell her "my food EATS your food".... but she still tries to tell me brussel sprouts are "food")


    and I STILL haven't eaten a vench'table since't I left home....
    How many years were you building rifles before you discovered the ďGordy methodĒ?

    Donít get me wrong, Iím not crapping on any method. Every. Single. Method. Has flaws. We use the method that makes the most sense to us, with the tools we have available. I donít think thereís a shooter out there that could determine the method used to chamber on target using a blind taste test. If that shooter exists, Iíd love to meet him and pick his brain.

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