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Thread: Chambering: indicate bore before threading and/or before reamer?

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bnhpr View Post
    Using copper?
    Yes.

    I have copper wire in sizes from 12ga to 4Ga and have been kinda' satisfied but have had problems with shearing the smaller diameters and of course the 1/4" stuff is rough to deal with....so for the last year I've been trying copper another way..... copper line or tubing.

    I figgered clearance is clearance so's I don't _need_ the 1/4" wire

    So I tried some various wall thicknesses of 1/4" copper line

    VICTORY!

    1/2" long hunk of 1/4" copper line, thread it onto a 6-8" long piece of twist-tie wire ("bread bag twistie", "tomato tie wire") and use it over and over. NEVER moves, rock solid, and when you need a new one, it takes about 3 minutes to make one.

    Best Ever

    Plus it can't hook your sleeve nor nick your knuckle

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    Yes.

    I have copper wire in sizes from 12ga to 4Ga and have been kinda' satisfied but have had problems with shearing the smaller diameters and of course the 1/4" stuff is rough to deal with....so for the last year I've been trying copper another way..... copper line or tubing.

    I figgered clearance is clearance so's I don't _need_ the 1/4" wire

    So I tried some various wall thicknesses of 1/4" copper line

    VICTORY!

    1/2" long hunk of 1/4" copper line, thread it onto a 6-8" long piece of twist-tie wire ("bread bag twistie", "tomato tie wire") and use it over and over. NEVER moves, rock solid, and when you need a new one, it takes about 3 minutes to make one.

    Best Ever

    Plus it can't hook your sleeve nor nick your knuckle

    I'm going to try that, I dont think T6061 is tough enough.

    I've come full circle with my indication, now back to ptg rods for rough in, short stylus after facing off, indicating off the grooves. for final. I'm getting more requests for a .625x24 threaded muzzle, and I'm using just the PTG rods once I flip the barrel around.

    I was using copper shim stock on that setup, maybe wire is better? Of course, the dia varies barrel to barrel with contour.

    Ben

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bnhpr View Post
    I'm going to try that, I dont think T6061 is tough enough.

    I've come full circle with my indication, now back to ptg rods for rough in, short stylus after facing off, indicating off the grooves. for final. I'm getting more requests for a .625x24 threaded muzzle, and I'm using just the PTG rods once I flip the barrel around.

    I was using copper shim stock on that setup, maybe wire is better? Of course, the dia varies barrel to barrel with contour.

    Ben
    I bought a little roll of the green tomater stake wire at a box store, it comes with a cutter right on the package. snip a hunk off, run it through the piece of tubing, SMASH the tubing down tight with the 4-jaw which crimps it onto the wire, then the wires are easily wrapped onto the chuck jaws and tucked out of the way. Wnem done, throw 'em in the drawer and re-use several times until the twistie tie snaps.

  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Tooley View Post
    If you don't have confidence in your setup you need a different setup.
    Best post in this entire thread.

  5. #95
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    This is my newest Toy

    This has been a game changer for action work as well as for aligning a barrel for chambering.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by RP Rifles View Post
    This has been a game changer for action work as well as for aligning a barrel for chambering.
    I don't use one, but the TBAS seams like one of the best solution to all the problems people are trying to solve. I like it because there is no way you are "bending" the barrel into submission.

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by RP Rifles View Post
    This has been a game changer for action work as well as for aligning a barrel for chambering.
    I see a 6 jaw chuck, what am I not seeing? How do you indicate your barrel or action?

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butch Lambert View Post
    I see a 6 jaw chuck, what am I not seeing? How do you indicate your barrel or action?
    The TBAS uses a set-true style mount but also has a ball/socket semi-sphere kind of deal to adjust angle. You can use any scroll chuck or collet chuck on it for work holding.

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by RP Rifles View Post
    This has been a game changer for action work as well as for aligning a barrel for chambering.
    How do you grip non-parallel surfaces? Like a typical BR barrel?

  10. #100
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    I just saw a movie of it on a Haas TL-1 lathe. I'm not crazy about the way it indicates the barrel, Gordy method kinda?

  11. #101
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    Chuck

    You use a duel changeable pilot to get it close then you swap over to a long stem indicator and align the bore area as well. U donít have to pull and push the whole barrel with a spider chuck on the rear you can use that just to stabilize the barrel. Same with trueing an action No need for another fixture to hold action u just chuck it up and dial it in with the chuck very fast and no stress on the action twisting

  12. #102
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    OK, not to diss on the TBAS, but the only reason I don't own one is because I can't for the life of me figure out how to secure any of my work in it.

  13. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    OK, not to diss on the TBAS, but the only reason I don't own one is because I can't for the life of me figure out how to secure any of my work in it.
    I haven't tried it, but Steve Acker once demonstrated putting a bearing surface on a barrel by installing a sleeve attached with bondo that he then trued between centers before using it as a bearing surface for a steady rest (IIRC, it's been a while). He later heated the sleeve with a propane torch to soften and remove the sleeve and bondo. Too much effort? Who knows? Will the bondo expand and impart stress to the barrel? That's a question I'm interested in answering.

    GsT

  14. #104
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    Itís unlikely epoxy would put stress in the barrel, especially over a short distance. We use epoxy (chockfast) to bed large diesel engines, for that reason.

    This issue I would have with that setup, is getting the bore in the center of all that.

  15. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by alinwa View Post
    OK, not to diss on the TBAS, but the only reason I don't own one is because I can't for the life of me figure out how to secure any of my work in it.
    You bolt a chuck to it. The TBAS is just an adjustable intermediate between your chuck and headstock.

    It allows you to indicate a bore using a 3 or 6 jaw.

    You arguably still need the copper wire, because you can still stress the barrel if the OD and ID are not perfectly concentric.

    Also, it obviously increases the distance through the headstock.

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