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Thread: Chambering: indicate bore before threading and/or before reamer?

  1. #31
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    Augusta, Maine & Palm Coast, Fl
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    A guy named Tubalcain

    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    Definitely my weakness. I never had any training in a real machine shop. Just learned from watching old gunsmiths. I could use real machine shop training.
    sells a series of Machine Shop Training Videos for not much money. You can find him often on Youtube. He is a retired Shop Teacher and has a couple thousand Youtube videos available, some to buy and some for free. He isn't the only one. There are multiple Shop Practices Youtube videos available for the clicking.

    Pete

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackie schmidt View Post
    Wow, itís been 10 years since Gary and I did that. I was a young man
    Has your process changed at all in those 10 years?

    GsT

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeneT View Post
    Has your process changed at all in those 10 years?

    GsT
    Not much. I am still using the same Pratt & Whitney Lathe.

  4. #34
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    Pete, thanks. I try to watch as many videos as I can when Iím on the road. Tubalcain is one of my favorites.

    Jackie, I hear ya.... those years are flying by

  5. #35
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    They did indeed Fly on by I didn't realize it was already that far back when it was first posted.

  6. #36
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    Thank you Jackie.

    Quote Originally Posted by jackie schmidt View Post
    Not much. I am still using the same Pratt & Whitney Lathe.
    I appreciate your sharing your methods some decade ago, as well as your response to my question.

    Cheers!

    GsT

  7. #37
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    There are plenty

    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    Pete, thanks. I try to watch as many videos as I can when Iím on the road. Tubalcain is one of my favorites.

    Jackie, I hear ya.... those years are flying by
    of chambering videos as well, The Viper for one and Gordie Gritters for another. Chambering barrels is really pretty easy stuff in the realm of machining, generally. I have done prolly ten now and all of them have shot a lot better than I can. I don't understand why the whole thing is so intimidating to folks and I'm somewhat ham fisted when it comes to machining.

    Pete

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Wass View Post
    of chambering videos as well, The Viper for one and Gordie Gritters for another. Chambering barrels is really pretty easy stuff in the realm of machining, generally. I have done prolly ten now and all of them have shot a lot better than I can. I don't understand why the whole thing is so intimidating to folks and I'm somewhat ham fisted when it comes to machining.

    Pete
    Thanks. Watched viper and Gordy videos numerous times. Always trying to learn from guys that do things a bit different. My buddy that retired and taught me said the same. He always laughed and said ďI ainít a machinist. Just know how to turn and thread barrels. It isnít hard.Ē You guys are right

  9. #39
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    Talked to a guy named Alex Wheeler when I was just learning a few years back and he was nice enough to answer a bunch of questions over about an hour conversation. Great guy. Makes high end stuff and he told me, ďdonít worry about most of the bs you hear on the forums. Some guys think theyíre saving the effing world by chambering a rifle.Ē Made me laugh but he stressed simple machining practices.

  10. #40
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    You can put a dial indicator in the bore at any step after the initial indicating in of the bore. If nothing else, it will give you confidence in your setup. Iíve changed my procedure some since I wrote that article in Precision Shooting in the early 90ís. I still indicate in at the projected throat, drill and pre bore out most of the chamber. Whether you cut the tenon, thread and then chamber or chamber first, then cut the tenon and thread doesnít make any difference as long as your setup is solid. Now I usually cut the tenon, thread and chamber in that order. Then check the finished neck and throat with a dial indicator and bore scope after the barrel is chambered and before I take it out of the lathe.

  11. #41
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    Like Mike explains. check the finished product with a borescope if you are doing a benchrest chamber. if the 11/2-2 degree leade is not perfectly centered is probably will not shoot benchrest groups.


    .

  12. #42
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    Extreme SEcorner of British Columbia.
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    I have always turned and threaded the tenon then chambered. When I first started doing barrel work (1977), turned and threaded the barrel between centers then set up in the steady rest or the four jaw chuck to chamber. I preferred using the steady because the tailstock on the lathe I was using at the time sat a little high and I could compensate with the steady. The method worked well but there were unavoidable compromises made (as there are with any set-up, really). In the mid eighties, I started doing all chambering and threading while set up through the headstock. Since then, I might vary the set-up or the order of doing things from time to time but mostly, I've stayed with it.
    Years ago I came up with some very soft iron wire (3/16) and that is what I use to hold the barrel in the 4-jaw. Either that or some 1/8 inch brass rod.
    I have seen very few barrels which appeared to be nearly straight and only one which I would have called perfectly straight. By the way, that barrel was wasted on a 300 mag. hunting rifle! Regards, Bill.

  13. #43
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    Thanks guys. They shoot well, but it is hard to compare a light hunting rifle to a br rifle. I like the wire around the barrel trick.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    Thanks guys. They shoot well, but it is hard to compare a light hunting rifle to a br rifle. I like the wire around the barrel trick.
    No it ain't...... I do it all the time


    'Course it DOES require a BR Rifle.

    OOPS, yer right..... that WOULD BE HARD

    for you

  15. #45
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    Feb 2007
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    No movement

    I cant seem to figure out how to post pictures bit I've built a chuck that absolutly will not move while machining a barrel. I wish I could share the pics. If someone can help please let me know.
    I use a 3/8 fine thread machine screw that I machined the end for a small magnet and a 3/8 steel bearing. I then place a shoe that I machined for the 3/8 bearing with a 3/8 ball mill between the bearing and barrel. The set up is basically a spider chuck but the balls and shoes allow for the barrel to tumble and they are rick solid.

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