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Thread: Kroil?

  1. #16
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    Apr 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtmarmot View Post
    I don't have Kroil, but I have Liquid Wrench, which is likewise a penetrating oil. If I have stubborn carbon in the corners that WipeOut is not getting, I do some wet patches with it, with a wait in between - sometimes overnight.

    The Remington bore cleaner that you have to shake up really gets the carbon out. It's less messy than J-B paste and seems to be quite effective.
    That's the old Gold Medallion formula that Remington bought up. I usually just put a needle eye jag on the rod and have a patch in it. Shake it up and put a few drops on the patch and pull it back n forth [with a rod guide in place of course] several times. I usually ran a dry patch before running more bore cleaner. Not messy at all. Put a catch bucket under the muzzle end to catch any drips. I suppose you could replace the needle eye jag with a patch wrapped around a nylon brush.

  2. #17
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    Jul 2016
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    Albany, OR
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    I love Kroil. It seems to creep between the barrel and lead fouling, in particular. It's also amazing for casting. Molds lubed with Kroil throw good articles the first time, so no need to clean before casting. I use it anywhere a penetrating oil, lead remover, or mold preservative is required.

    GsT

  3. #18
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    Feb 2003
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    Tennessee
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    These methods of cleaning y'all mention are pretty good but if the barrel coppers, it's gonna do it first shot after cleaning. OK if you're cleaning a hunting barrel but if you're cleaning a competition barrel and find copper...you need to begin saving for a new barrel. Never mind about those young'uns that need clothes and their teeth fixed...a new barrel has precedence. While the price of pinto beans has increased unbelievably, they're still relatively cheap.

    AND...to some extent, I'm not trying to be funny here.

  4. #19
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    Apr 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wilbur View Post
    These methods of cleaning y'all mention are pretty good but if the barrel coppers, it's gonna do it first shot after cleaning. OK if you're cleaning a hunting barrel but if you're cleaning a competition barrel and find copper...you need to begin saving for a new barrel. Never mind about those young'uns that need clothes and their teeth fixed...a new barrel has precedence. While the price of pinto beans has increased unbelievably, they're still relatively cheap.

    AND...to some extent, I'm not trying to be funny here.
    Which is why I don't worry so much anymore about gettin all the copper out of a huntin barrel. It actually lubes the barrel, no? Seems to me that I recall that barrel bores are copper plated before being button rifled; or is that not correct?

  5. #20
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    Dec 2003
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    washington.........STATE that is.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wilbur View Post
    These methods of cleaning y'all mention are pretty good but if the barrel coppers, it's gonna do it first shot after cleaning. OK if you're cleaning a hunting barrel but if you're cleaning a competition barrel and find copper...you need to begin saving for a new barrel. Never mind about those young'uns that need clothes and their teeth fixed...a new barrel has precedence. While the price of pinto beans has increased unbelievably, they're still relatively cheap.

    AND...to some extent, I'm not trying to be funny here.
    I'm gonna' disagree with Wilbur here

    (yeahh, I know)



    AND...to some extent, I'm trying to be funny here




    I AGREE with Wilbur, but..... IMO there are two kinds of "coppering"




    I'm going to mention a kind of coppering that (again, IMO) doesn't require chucking the barrel into the circular file.




    Sometimes when we barrel a rifle we create some tiny smears or burrs where the chambering reamer shears off the lands along the slope of the leade, I have some thoughts about WHY this happens, and how to prevent it, and even how to get rid of it mechanically, but I digress. It DOES happen. And when it happens a copper shine can occur in the first and last 2-4 inches of the barrel, but not in the middle. And I believe that most of the time you can "fix" this coppering phenomenon by shooting/cleaning/shooting/cleaning/shooting 3 to 5 to even 10-15 rounds and IF IT QUITS COPPERING......... it's fixed.


    forever.


    Well, for the life of the barrel anyways.




    love you Wilbur, I love the way you think.... even when we fight

  6. #21
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    Tennessee
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    Actually, I agree with you on the break in process. Soooo...we'll have to fight about something else.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    757

    I put it back

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Gullette View Post
    Yeah......I think it was the nitrobenzene that put a twist in OSHA's(?) shorts.
    Kevin
    What one man can do another can undo. I add the nitrobenzene back to the hoppes at the same concentration. But before you ask I can't tell you where I got it from.
    Andy.

  8. #23
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    Apr 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Cross View Post
    What one man can do another can undo. I add the nitrobenzene back to the hoppes at the same concentration. But before you ask I can't tell you where I got it from.
    Andy.
    Nitrobenzene is one of those things that from just the smell it seems like it's going to dissolve your lungs. BTW there is some for sale on eBay.
    I once tried pure nitromethane as a cleaner, but it wasn't very effective.

  9. #24
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    Jul 2005
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    482
    Quote Originally Posted by antelopedundee View Post
    Don't see a reason to oil a SS bore.
    It is stain LESS, not stain none.

    Still needs some protection.

    The Chloride in you sweat will cause pitting in almost all types of stainless if left on the surface.

  10. #25
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    Apr 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by brickeyee View Post
    It is stain LESS, not stain none.

    Still needs some protection.

    The Chloride in you sweat will cause pitting in almost all types of stainless if left on the surface.

    Which is why I never pick up a firearm by the metal [steel or stainless steel] part without properly wiping the handled area off afterwards. If my handloads are going to sit for a long spell after loading I wipe them OR handle them with the disposable food gloves that you can buy cheap offa eBay.

  11. #26
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    Feb 2003
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    Lower Dakota Territory
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    Butch's Bore Shine for cleaning.

    One sloppy wet patch on an undersized jag, then a few wet brush strokes with a bronze brush, patch the crud out, then another loose wet one, then a tight dry patch or two. Wipe off the muzzle, dry the chamber with a revolver/shotgun mop, clean the lug recesses and it's done.

    If it's going back in the gun case, Marvel Mystery Oil on a loose jag always works.

    I've got some old Hoppe's #9. Reminds me of going to the old Herters store with my Dad. -Al

  12. #27
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    Apr 2017
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    Ames, Iowa
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    A loose patch of accelerator followed by a loose patch of wipeout. Let sit 5-10 minutes. Follow with a tight hexane patch and a tight dry patch. Lather, rinse, repeat. Usually the black is out after 3 tries. Anything after that stays.

    Chrome moly barrel gets a loose patch of oil.

  13. #28
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    Apr 2006
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    Kentucky-Home of the Kentucky Wildcats
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    Quote Originally Posted by antelopedundee View Post
    Which is why I never pick up a firearm by the metal [steel or stainless steel] part without properly wiping the handled area off afterwards. If my handloads are going to sit for a long spell after loading I wipe them OR handle them with the disposable food gloves that you can buy cheap offa eBay.
    Very true! The 416ss that we are use to can barely even be called stainless at all. It has a pretty specific purpose and it works well for making gun barrels because it is both quite machinable and it's heat treatable. Otherwise, it's a pretty useless variety of "almost stainless steel", steels.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    403
    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Gullette View Post
    If I may suggest..........just one more thing.

    Add an old rag(aka back of an old discarded t-shirt), that is used for various gun cleaning chores over the years/decades......now black in color. A major portion of that black color is.........."old formula" Hoppe's #9.......the GOOD stuff. Nirvana!!!

    Kevin
    I agree kevin. I use that first, and Butches after. Days end...Jim Probst ( JB) compound. I'm about at the end of my original jar from the 60's.

  15. #30
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    Nov 2006
    Location
    Augusta, Maine & Palm Coast, Fl
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    Much of this is cleaning thing

    Is based on what one believes. I have moved on to what works fast. A recent discovery or re-discovery is RemClean. Rem clean on steel woll on a worn out brush, shazam! MAGIC. This after a citrus based liquid cleaner. More than believing in, a fact. Steel wool won't hurt a barrel, they are wearing out anyway.

    Pete

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