Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Recoil lug or not?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    241

    Recoil lug or not?

    Going to be ordering a Borden BRM for a short range for score heavy benchrest rifle. Will be doing a pillar bed and probably glued as well. Caliber will be 30br or 30 major. My question is should I get a recoil lug or not?

    Whats the opinions on this? Does it being glued or not make a difference wether a lug is needed or not?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    518
    Ask Jim Borden what he thinks.
    Iíve been shooting.30 BR for a long time with no recoil lug on my Panda, Six stock, HV rifle with no issues. Jim Borden will steer you right and wonít sell you anything you donít need.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Kentucky-Home of the Kentucky Wildcats
    Posts
    2,364
    The rear tang is the lug but on a glue and screw, the whole action is a recoil lug.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    585
    i have a lug on a hv 30br.
    it shoots better than i do
    bedded, torqued, but not glued
    might be an issue on a light gun
    Last edited by retired; 03-14-2019 at 02:23 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    7,912
    I have been shooting my 30BR for years with just a glue in.

    It's a Farley Action in a Robertson Stock.

    If you do glue in only, a good tip is to bead blast (Garnet), the lower portion of the action.

    Well, let me rephrase that. It's a good idea untill you have to remove the action from the stock.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Peoples Republic of California
    Posts
    91
    Well, let me rephrase that. It's a good idea untill you have to remove the action from the stock.[/QUOTE]

    So true! the better job you do the bigger problem it is to get it out down the road.

    That said I pillar bed all my own Comp rifles just so I can tinker with them any time I want to.
    I did have Alex Sitman pillar my F-Class stock since he was doing the woodwork, (beautiful piece of Bastogne) and he did a fantastic job.
    I was told once by an old time BR smith that a proper pillar job was as good as a glue-in, the main reason for glue-ins was to keep
    the owner from screwing up the bedding taking the action in and out!:
    Greg

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Kentucky-Home of the Kentucky Wildcats
    Posts
    2,364
    Quote Originally Posted by wfcustom View Post
    Well, let me rephrase that. It's a good idea untill you have to remove the action from the stock.
    So true! the better job you do the bigger problem it is to get it out down the road.

    That said I pillar bed all my own Comp rifles just so I can tinker with them any time I want to.
    I did have Alex Sitman pillar my F-Class stock since he was doing the woodwork, (beautiful piece of Bastogne) and he did a fantastic job.
    I was told once by an old time BR smith that a proper pillar job was as good as a glue-in, the main reason for glue-ins was to keep
    the owner from screwing up the bedding taking the action in and out!:
    Greg[/QUOTE]

    As a whole, I agree. That said, there is no fit like a unitized, be it glued, welded, whatever. The two parts act entirely as one, if glued. I'm talking about how harmonics are handled. I'm not going to claim with certainty that I can shoot well enough to see the difference but it is measurable and I saw differences while doing some vibration testing with tuners. I literally put an iron on a glued and screwed action and it came out very clean. I then tested after bolting it back in. It was interesting but I can't say that it shot noticeably different.
    I'm about to start another money pit experiment using an aluminum stock. I've never been really impressed with one before, albeit limited experiences.
    I plan to apply the same dampening technology that I use in my tuners. It's my money and I might learn that it was costly and worthless or I might find something worthwhile. I did pass the same idea along to a rf shooter a couple of years ago who did it with his stock and he said it was very much worthwhile but his stock wasn't aluminum.
    Last edited by mwezell; 03-15-2019 at 04:27 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Peoples Republic of California
    Posts
    91
    Quote:
    "As a whole, I agree. That said, there is no fit like a unitized, be it glued, welded, whatever. The two parts act entirely as one, if glued."

    Mike,
    I have always been of the opinion that the only difference between a "properly" pillar bedded action and a glue in was the release compound you use on the pillar bed job.
    Thoughts? I'd be happy to hear other opinions, like I said all my personal guns are pillared, and I have had some very successful results doing it that way.
    By the way your tuners are really helping those 2 new 30 Br's stand up and sing!
    Regards,
    Greg
    Last edited by wfcustom; 03-15-2019 at 10:56 PM. Reason: Add quote

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Kentucky-Home of the Kentucky Wildcats
    Posts
    2,364
    Quote Originally Posted by wfcustom View Post
    Quote:
    "As a whole, I agree. That said, there is no fit like a unitized, be it glued, welded, whatever. The two parts act entirely as one, if glued."

    Mike,
    I have always been of the opinion that the only difference between a "properly" pillar bedded action and a glue in was the release compound you use on the pillar bed job.
    Thoughts? I'd be happy to hear other opinions, like I said all my personal guns are pillared, and I have had some very successful results doing it that way.
    By the way your tuners are really helping those 2 new 30 Br's stand up and sing!
    Regards,
    Greg
    Greg, I look at it as no different that a torqued bolt in a high vibration environment that works loose. At high enough frequencies, I think virtually every joint moves. But I won't go so far as to say that such high frequency, very small movement can be seen on target.

    Glad the tuners are working well for you. Thanks for the kind words.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Peoples Republic of California
    Posts
    91
    [QUOTE=mwezell;821238]Greg, I look at it as no different that a torqued bolt in a high vibration environment that works loose. At high enough frequencies, I think virtually every joint moves. But I won't go so far as to say that such high frequency, very small movement can be seen on target.

    Damn Mike,
    Guess that means I'll still just have to watch them lying wind flags!
    Or maybe a large tube of blue Loctite?
    Greg

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Kentucky-Home of the Kentucky Wildcats
    Posts
    2,364
    [QUOTE=wfcustom;821240]
    Quote Originally Posted by mwezell View Post
    Greg, I look at it as no different that a torqued bolt in a high vibration environment that works loose. At high enough frequencies, I think virtually every joint moves. But I won't go so far as to say that such high frequency, very small movement can be seen on target.

    Damn Mike,
    Guess that means I'll still just have to watch them lying wind flags!
    Or maybe a large tube of blue Loctite?
    Greg
    I can't recommend loctite on the flags though. Lol!
    OTOH, at least the flags would be honest in one condition. Lol

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    241
    How many action screws does the borden brm have?

    And would the XP cut option be any real benefit?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    5,286
    I'd glue it. I don't know about the recoil lug but I've never had one on a 6PPC...all glued. One would and some would not!
    Last edited by Wilbur; 04-16-2019 at 11:35 AM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    ME
    Posts
    1,798

    The BAT B

    action on my hunter rifle is, of course, a bedded and screwed mounting. It has no recoil lug. The wide rear tang acts as one. I would not use one in your case.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lower Dakota Territory
    Posts
    1,996
    In a pillar bedded (non-glued in) rifle, I found that a front (conventional position) recoil lug made the gun handle better in the bags. They were all .30's, so that may have some bearing on the handling improvement.

    This is a dovetailed recoil lug on a Panda, though you can't see the dovetail portion very well in this angle. The lug is also screwed from the bottom. Stan Ware did quite a few of these, including my four. This one was for my LV30BR....technically, a Sporter.

    Before:



    After:





    Completed gun:



    Here's a couple more Stan did that I stocked, including a leftie. Bottom is a Kodiak for comparison:


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •