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Thread: Reamer stop collars

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    56
    I bought ten 1/2 collars with Allen set screws off ebay for $9. Used a boring bar to fit them to each reamer. I set them close at the beginning, then use feeler gauges after testing the go gauge. Cheap and very effective.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Mram10; 11-11-2018 at 12:28 AM.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Augusta, Maine & Palm Coast, Fl
    Posts
    5,678

    What mine looks like

    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    I bought ten 1/2 collars with Allen set screws off ebay for $9. Used a boring bar to fit them to each reamer. I set them close at the beginning, then use feeler gauges after testing the go gauge. Cheap and very effective.
    I made me own. Being a hobbyist, I'm always looking for a project and the collars were a project. Likely less expensive to buy some but machining is a hobby and I have plenty of stock. Speaking of stock, I found a scrap yard that sells it aluminum and stainless for a buck a pound. It's close to my Spousal Alternative's home so I go often. I have a quarter mile of aluminum and stainless rounds in stock now . It's odds and ends but at least the aluminum is marked as to what it is. He gave me a deal on a piece of 7075 the other day because he thought I might have trouble machining it. 3" round that weighs 33 pounds, gave it to me for $30. My Banggood carbide loved it .

    Pete

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    I bought ten 1/2 collars with Allen set screws off ebay for $9. Used a boring bar to fit them to each reamer. I set them close at the beginning, then use feeler gauges after testing the go gauge. Cheap and very effective.
    Here's my floating reamer holder/pusher and reamer stop set-up. I made the reamer stop out of some brass tubing fittings. I use the gauge shown to measure the depth of the case rim cut. I purposely set the reamer stop to cut the rim depth shallow, make a measurement, and then turn the reamer stop in to allow the reamer to cut further by the difference.

    Reaming a chamber with this set-up is very slow as you can only take light cuts or else the reamer grabs to much and your grip on the serrated piece can only resist so much torque. I dont chamber a lot of barrels so Im not in a hurry. Chambers turn out very tight and three chambers i've cut with this reamer and set-up all accept the same fireformed case.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Augusta, Maine & Palm Coast, Fl
    Posts
    5,678

    Very nice work

    Quote Originally Posted by HiWall View Post
    Here's my floating reamer holder/pusher and reamer stop set-up. I made the reamer stop out of some brass tubing fittings. I use the gauge shown to measure the depth of the case rim cut. I purposely set the reamer stop to cut the rim depth shallow, make a measurement, and then turn the reamer stop in to allow the reamer to cut further by the difference.

    Reaming a chamber with this set-up is very slow as you can only take light cuts or else the reamer grabs to much and your grip on the serrated piece can only resist so much torque. I dont chamber a lot of barrels so Im not in a hurry. Chambers turn out very tight and three chambers i've cut with this reamer and set-up all accept the same fireformed case.
    I'm too old and use the shop way too little to ever be good enough to make things that look that good. I've never been very good at machining. My hand-eye coordination and just the feel for it hasn't ever been good. I love doing it but, well , lets say i've been better at watching the Youtubes showing how to do it.

    Pete

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    washington.........STATE that is.
    Posts
    9,574
    HiWall that sure looks nice

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