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  #16  
Old 11-02-2009, 08:16 PM
lancexxx lancexxx is offline
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Also go with tight neck at .262 or no turn at .272. That is my choices from the smith.
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  #17  
Old 11-02-2009, 11:53 PM
alinwa alinwa is offline
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Originally Posted by lancexxx View Post
So, from what you guys are saying jammed hard into the lands with a lot on neck tension doesn't work.
It "works" it just makes crooked cases. Like I said, a lot of guys are happy with it.

Test it yourself....... make up a dummy round with a fired primer. Drop the hammer on it. See does the bullet move.... (it does)

Now glue it in place, JB Weld works OK if your rough everything up and put it together at about 150 degrees. Drop the hammer on it and see if it moves.... (it does)

So NOW, try to kill a couple primers by soaking them in Kroil. They'll probably not fire. Make up a dummy and drop the hammer on an unfired primer to see stuff REALLY move......

You can't stop the case from moving unless you false shoulder. If you're one of those who're OK with that then life will be easier for you.

If NOT....... false shoulder.

al
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  #18  
Old 11-03-2009, 04:27 AM
dasher john dasher john is offline
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I've always false shouldered when fire forming but was unaware that my S type F/L bushing die was not the ideal tool to neck back down. Thanks for the info! I'll be f/f brass over the winter. What do you suggest be used to neck back down... Neil Jones custom die? I am also looking for suggestions/reccomendations on concentricity gauges... Sinclair, the new Hornady (if you can find one of them in stock somewhere).

Thanks again,
John
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  #19  
Old 11-03-2009, 08:20 AM
carl hansen carl hansen is offline
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In reducing the expanded neck of my 6BRX brass from an expanded 6.5 I use my 6BR body die to go from the 6.5 to apprximately .274. I then use my bushing die to get to the final diameter that is required . I realize that this is an extra step but it works for me.../carl
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  #20  
Old 11-03-2009, 09:22 AM
lancexxx lancexxx is offline
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O.K. what is the best expanding die to use and is it also to just ok to expand up to 25 cal. or do I need to go up to 6.5 also what is the best full length die to do this since my bushing die won't work.
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  #21  
Old 11-03-2009, 11:52 AM
vinny vinny is online now
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Over the weekend I put 8 grains of Clays Uni. in a 6BR to make an improved version, 6BR-DX. I Topped them off with cream of wheat and packed it in with a piece of paper towel. 100 cases, not one problem. Sharp shoulder and all the rest.

I just finished fire forming 100 pieces of 6x47 Lapua. Expanded with a 6.5 mandrel, re-size with a .267 bushing creating a false shoulder, use a small pistol primer with 9 grains of clays, cream of wheat and paper towel. They look and measure exactly as the ones I fireformed with powder and bullets. I'll now expand with a 6mm mandrel trim them all to length and turn them.

It seems to work!
vinny
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  #22  
Old 11-03-2009, 05:40 PM
Lynn Lynn is offline
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Vinny
I create the false shoulder and use the cream of wheat just like you and they come out fine.

Alinwa
On my cases the false shoulder with a live primer doesn't hold the brass real tight.It holds it a little better than a bullet but not much.I use a pin punch to remove my primers and after testing a case with the false shoulder method for the second time it won't fire the primer without completely re-doing the neck.To my way of thinking this tells me the 6.5 mm false shoulder isn't holding everything back.It is the method I use but its not perfect.

Lancexxx
You can get a full length 6 Dasher die from Sinclairs on the homepage of this website for about $36.The die will reduce your neck back down creating the false shoulder.
Waterboy
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  #23  
Old 11-03-2009, 11:47 PM
alinwa alinwa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn View Post


Alinwa
On my cases the false shoulder with a live primer doesn't hold the brass real tight.It holds it a little better than a bullet but not much.I use a pin punch to remove my primers and after testing a case with the false shoulder method for the second time it won't fire the primer without completely re-doing the neck.To my way of thinking this tells me the 6.5 mm false shoulder isn't holding everything back.It is the method I use but its not perfect.


OOOHHhhhhh!!!! Good info mon!!

Thanks for testing this and passing it on.

I've only done it on two long-chambered 6BR's and a couple over-length .243
AI's trying to make better cases (I don't have a DAsher) and they all came out equal length.

Do you set them for a firm jam? And they STILL move???

I needa' back up and do some more testing!

al
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  #24  
Old 11-04-2009, 05:04 AM
JRinCo JRinCo is offline
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When is it best to turn the necks for a Dasher.
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  #25  
Old 11-04-2009, 10:20 AM
Lynn Lynn is offline
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Alinwa
I think the brass I am using currently is pretty soft stuff out of the box.I can take tight fitting shoulders add a piece of tape to the boltface and close the action very easily.

JRinCo
I do my neck turning after my fireforming but then again I don't use a bullet to fireform with so I don't have any clearance issues.
I always figured neck turning first for a case with alot of shoulder movement is for those guys who really like to make alot of measurements and tinker quite a bit.
Me I like to shoot.Our range has quite a few dragon flies near the firing line and the cream of wheat makes a great short range load for them.
Waterboy

Last edited by Lynn; 11-04-2009 at 10:25 AM.
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  #26  
Old 11-04-2009, 11:29 AM
alinwa alinwa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn View Post
Alinwa
I think the brass I am using currently is pretty soft stuff out of the box.I can take tight fitting shoulders add a piece of tape to the boltface and close the action very easily.
Ohhh, if you're using URBR brass I can see it happening. I use only Lapua and have had zero shoulder setback in my testing so far.

al
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  #27  
Old 11-04-2009, 11:32 AM
Lynn Lynn is offline
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Alinwa
Al I'm using Lapua brass in my 2 Dashers.I use the URBR brass in the standard 6BR case.
Waterboy
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  #28  
Old 11-04-2009, 11:50 AM
alinwa alinwa is offline
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Lynn,

All my stuff is hard enough that if I don't get the crush JUST right you won't get the bolt closed even if you hammer it with your palm. I've had to re-bump some shoulders because I let them sit too long.

al
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  #29  
Old 11-04-2009, 12:30 PM
Lynn Lynn is offline
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Alinwa
Al I haven't had brass that good out of the box in 3 years now.If I neck up to 6.5 and neck down maybe 0.125 of the neck to 6mm I can close my bolt like a normal hunting load.If you don't fire the brass once or twice you can't load it up without expanding the webs.At the nationals this year my father had some brass that never saw a bullet and two of his cases lost the primer pockets big time with everyday loads.In the past we could pull our brass out of the box and shoot fullhouse loads in it.Those days ended about 3-4 yaers ago with the first big shortage of 6BR brass and have never returned.

Waterboy
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  #30  
Old 11-04-2009, 02:44 PM
alinwa alinwa is offline
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Thank you Lynn!

I'm still working off of a lot of 1000 6BR cases that are almost 10yrs old and my 6.5X47L cases are from the very first lot off the boat from Finland...... in fact all of my Lapua brass is older than you've described. Looks like I'd better order up some of the newer stuff and see if it's just an annealing problem or if he brass is actually softer. Some of those first 6.5X47L cases have over 40 firings now as my 6X47L and are still going strong.

Your statements about the cases taking pressure "after you've fired them" leads me to believe that it's an annealing issue..... meantime, I'd better reassess some of my assumptions re Lapua brass.

al
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