Tuner Advice.

T

Tod Soeby

New member
I am not sure if this is the correct place for tuner advice, but I do know some of you dabble with them.

I have two tuners laying around that would fit the "exploding" dasher. I know how much bullet jam it likes along with it's favorite neck tension. Now, the seating depths and neck tention was worked up using 1.5 gr more powder, but it is just hell on the brass, so I reduced to the next lowest node. I am going to assume that just becuse I reduced the load the neck tention and seating depth WILL BE THE SAME. I have no reason to think that it should change.

Also, I know that TUNERS WORK.....PERIOD. I just could never make it work on the same setting two days in a row. But that was with a factory 220 swift, not a
match gun". Now, I am going to fire some groups to test the tuner...................QUESTION......can I just shoot the groups at 100 or 200 yards since my goal is not to try and tune out the vertical.....just to shrink group size in general......or should I test at 800 yards? I figured I can take the conditions out of the equation at shorter range and not make it an exersize in wind reading.

Also...I don't want to hear the "don't waste your time" thing

I LIKE WASTING TIME....WHY- N - L DO YOU THINK I POST HERE SO MUCH!!!!:D

What say you,
Tod
 
I have a Savager Model 12 dual port in 6BR with a 30" McGowen barrel and a Harrell tuner. It does work like you say. I have tweaked it at 100 or 200 and the setting seems stable. I don't see any reason to do the tuning at longer ranges.
 
tod sir ,100yds sounds like a plan and then just as long as you have low velocity spreads you are in at any distance. tim in tx
 
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tuner

I would take the tuner off and work up a load doing latter tests at 200-400yrds.find your powder charge first then do some length tests.after you find your best load use that as a baseline.then put the tuner on and play with it at 200-400yrds.testing seating depth should be done at longer ranges.optimium seating depth at 100-200 is not the same as 400-600 and a1000.when you change the seating depth you change the spreed over crony.good luck.were i shoot they don't alow tuners but they alow muzzle brakes of any diameter:D:D:D 4-6 ozer works
 
My 6BR shoots different with the tuner removed, just like removing the weight of a muzzle break. I do the load development with the tuner on and then do the tuning after I get a good load.
 
I was just coming here to start a similar thread. I will be picking up 600yd light gun next week that had rebarreled to a Dasher. It will have a tuner on it made by Bob Green and the desighn looks similar to Hal Drakes. I was wondering HOW to use the tuner? I was thinking do the original load workup with the tuner in the middle then try moving it both ways. Is this how you do it?
 
I had done all of the load work a while ago. The best load by far was 32.6 g RL 15. The second best is my currant load of 31.3 rl15. The 32.6 blew about every other primer. The 31.3 load is still way hot in this gun, but at least I am not blowing primers.

I had my original tuner sitting on the shelf for about ten years......looked like to much work. I decided to call Time Precision and talked to the head push. I want to say it was Rodger Johnston but I might be wrong. My first concern was.."do I work up a load first and then tune"?...".NO......pick a load and tune the gun" was the responce. Then, while looking at the tuner....with it's 25 graduations per revolution and something like 10 revolutions of travel....Me..."you gotta be kidding me.....thats like 250 - 300 groups just to test!!!".

Him...."No...screw it all the way in and shoot 1 group per graduation for one revolution (about 25 groups).....you should find 3 nodes (sweet spots)......pick the best one and your done. It worked on the swift 10 years ago....FOR A DAY....THEN WENT OUT OF TUNE.


So....I already have the load.....I have found the best seating depth.....I have found the correct neck tention.....and I shot it yesterday in about 85 degree heat with high humidity. I shot about six groups and stoped...... shrunk the 3 shot groups from 1/2 inch to around. .15 or so...the real test.......how will it be on monday...or tues....or wed...ect....when the weather changes?

Today my oldest boy, who's only real experiance with guns in on "modern warfare II...the call of duty".....that is XBOX talk for those of you without kids....shoots F class today..(300-600) First time ever...trying to get him interested in LR BR......He shot, I watched......very, very windy with lots of mirage....and he shoots PAINFULLY slow.....shoots a 196 10X....and this kid was deftly afraid of guns two years ago and has only fired a dozen centerfire rounds in his life. Low 180's at 600, but he kept dialing and holding in the wrong direction......probably my fault......anyway....I think the gun shot pretty well.

Will test a few more times before I am sold on the idea of a tuner on a centerfire gun.
 
tod sir ,one thing that might help is as the temp climbs,turn you tuner in towards the action a given a amount untill it groups well again,mark the spot on the tuner with a given temp and pretty soon you will have your adjustment formula for temp changes ,good luck to you and your son sir. tim in tx
 
Tod
The tuner gets rid of your vertical by making the faster and slower shots converge at a given point lets say 100 yards.If you think about it those two shots would have had a certain amount of vertical in them until the tuner removed it.
If you set you tuner at 100 yards to remove the vertical what happens for the next 900 yards to those same two bullets that were originaly not following the same path? To my way of thinking your best bet would be to test at 500 yards for best group then go to 100 yards immediately and see if the tuner is still tuned.If it requires adjustment this tells me it needs to be set for the distance you are using it at.
Waterboy
 
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