Sleeving a remington 700 bolt??

S

skeetlee

Active member
I will soon be attempting to true up my first Remington 700. This action is my own, and I want to go all out with it. Well I say all out. I want to true the threads, the lugs and the faces. I may or may not ream the race ways, but I do plan on sleeving the bolt. So maybe I should ream the raceways?? I haven't ever seen how a rem 700 bolt is sleeved, but after a conversation with a dear friend of mine, I have a pretty good idea on how its done. I do however still have a couple questions.


- Do I want to sleeve the hole bolt, or just the back end?
-whats the best material to use to make the sleeve?
-How deep or how much material do I take off the bolt for the sleeve to fit over?
-How tight, or how much clearance in the back end is acceptable?

Any general info one might care to share would be much appreciated. I of course want to do this properly, and I know the process wont be difficult for me, I just need to have a solid game plan before I dive in. thanks a bunch. Lee
 
I am looking on the internet, and have found this. I will add more if I find them. The last link is to the first of a series of videos that are all about blueprinting a Remington 700. Rather than posting links to the whole series, I will simply direct you to look around on the right of the page and find the second, and so on, as you go through the series. I am sure that you know a lot of the stuff on the videos, but I think that if you pick up a couple of pointers that they should be worth your time.


[url]http://www.vandykerifles.com/bolt_sleeving.htm
[/URL]http://nerdgun.blogspot.com/2011/12/sleeving-remington-700-bolt.html
http://benchrest.com/archive/index.php/t-51653.html
[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n191F9c1YiQ
[/URL]
 
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I used to sleeve the bolt but didn't really like it. After seeing a couple of actions built with "bumps" which tightened and aligned the bolt only when the handle was lowered, I started retro-fitting bumps to various bolts. I simply cut two .050 deep, 3/8 dovetails then installed a couple of inserts which were then turned to size. When the bolt is locked up there is no clearance and no movement. When the handle is raised, there is normal clearance and the bolt moves freely. I never did put inserts at the front. On a Remington, I relied on a teflon O-ring in the barrel counterbore for bolt alignment. Seems to work OK. Regards, Bill
 
Lee, I think you are serious doing gunsmithing the correct way. Buy Bill Hambly-Clark's gunsmithing book. I have never seen one that is as comprehensive as his.
Link-http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9411043/m/3241064602
Lee, if you don't ream the raceways you are wasting time trying to do a good job. Listen to Bill Leeper. Bill has been around a long time and is very knowledgeable.
 
I like the bumps, too but Lee, if you're going all out on this, you could order a PTG bolt oversized and ream to your desired clearance. A Sunnen hone would be great for final sizing of the raceway.
 
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I like ball burnishing for a finish.
I second the book butch recommended- i really enjoy reading those type books and supporting a guy that takes the time to write a book of secrets. Shows many different ways of doing things- some i dont agree with and some im gonna try! Always gotta learn all i can
 
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