Reamers (rusty)

H

hkcarbine

Guest
I purchased a lot of reamers, about 200, for a good price. They are rusty, some will be pitched but I would like to clean up the rest. I thought of the wire wheel on my grinder, but lot of time and mess. I remember hearing about a product called Navel Jelly. Would that make sense to use? Any other thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Roger Q.
 
I wouldn't wire wheel those reamers

You could very well knock the sharp edge off the tool you so desire. I say Soak them in some WD-40. It won't get ride of the rust completely. But you might keep that sharp edge longer. Also, don't throw any of them out. You might want to have one altered for a Wildcat. If not and you don't feel that way. I can be reached @ cell#989-385-0173 Mark D. Spencer call anytime. :) I would love to have a junk reamer to play with....
 
Reamers

Thanks for the advice. I'll do the WD40 thing. These are not chamber reamers. They do go up to 1". I'll keep your phone# and give you a call with those which I want to junk.

Roger Q.
 
dave manson can/will resharpen reamers,,,,,,,,,,,,,, maybe they ain't junk after all,,,,,,,,,,

the wind is my friend,,,,,,,,,,,,,

DD
 
If they're not chamber reamers and are just straight chucking reamers, you can sharpen most if not all of them yourself. The side flutes do not cut on those, so thats not an issue. Just sharpen the front 45 deg angle and leave it at that. If the rust isn't bad, just put oil on them or better yet, find some Gibb's spray lube and use that. For rust, I would not recommend WD-40 since it draws moisture. That stuff in straight form will rust steel pretty bad.

Try to use them first. If they need sharpening, do it then.
 
Spencer's rust removal formula

Get some white vinegar from the supermarket and some water softener salt (pure salt, in the yellow bag; koshering salt is fine, too, but more expensive). Find a plastic container to hold all yer rusty stuff. Fill it with the vinegar, and add enough salt so that it won't all dissolve after two days. I use softener salt, and I like a layer of "beads" left on the bottom. OK, now you are ready to drop your degreased parts in.

This is critical: they must be COMPLETELY submerged. If not, they will corrode at the air-liquid interface. And fast.

Make sure there are no aluminum parts (like ID plates) mixed in, or they will, um, disappear. (Don't ask.)

Now, keeping them completely submerged, ignore them for 3 days. It's OK to kick the bucket (!) every time you walk by, but make sure everything stays submerged.

After 3 days, take the parts out and rinse in hot, clear water. Do not be alarmed by the rust all rinsing off. Dry off, and IMMEDIATELY spray with WD-40. (WD stands for water displacement... really.)

After you clean up (save the solution... it's still good), wipe off the WD-40, and spray with LPS-3, or the rust preventative of your choice. Do not expect WD-40 to do the job.

I have tested this method with parts that were machined clean and measured carefully. There was no measurable impact on clean steel after 3 days. Rust, however, is removed with the wipe of a thumb at the end of the process.

Hope this is useful.
 
rusty reamers

Thanks again for the helpful ideas. I'm going to try Spencer's formula. Shall probably not have any junk after that. Will advise.

Roger Q.
 
4Mesh said:
For rust, I would not recommend WD-40 since it draws moisture. That stuff in straight form will rust steel pretty bad.
Click to expand...



Wow and all this time I thought WD-40 was a moisture displacing lubricant. Isn't it used for freeing things that are rusted together?
 
I guess I never thought about displacing

moisture. I said soak it. It to will loosen rust. But since these are merely chucking reamers. Find the one or the ones you want and toss the rest. You can buy chucking reamers cheap. Picked up a set of Peerless, over the summer, for $15.00 at a auction. The one set was "Over and under" up to 1/2". an The other was "on-size" up to 1/2".

Another goofy Idea I have involves Ice tea. Leave some on you dirty tool box. Couple hours later the dirt and dust come right off. I've cleaned my Kennedy several times by accident.:p
 
Rifleshooter,
Some years ago my next door neighbor had been told that filling his lawn tractor with WD40 was a good way to winterize it. He did. In the spring he called me over to show me what not to do. He had bought a gallon of WD40 and filled the mower in the fall. The mower tank and carb were absolutely scrapped. I don't think saltwater woulda made it rust any worse, The cap was grown over with rust.

My experiences with it have been less than acceptable considering the alternative products out there. As a penetrating oil, theres about 10 that I think are way better. That's jmo.

Try it in a can that has a vent hole that allows air to get in and see how well it works. I think you'll be surprised.
 
Muratic acid, lumberyaed $4/gal, will derust fast. Keep an eye on it. It is temperature sensitive, that is, if very warm it will act fast. Gegrease parts first.
 
Rusty reamer success

Well, I used Spencer's formula of vinigar and salt! Three days was up yesterday. WORKS! Just a wipe off and very little rubbing. Also was able to easily detect those beyond salvage.

I'm going to try the muratic acid on another, have acid in stock.

Thanks again,

Roger Q.
 
Great to hear, Roger.

It never fails.

And I like vinegar and salt on my chips, too.

-Spencer
 
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