Question?

T

tlo

Guest
How do you square up the bolt face of a Rem SA that has the riveted extractor??

Tom
 
Tom, what you have to do is grind a small tool that looks like a horizonal backwards capitol "L", no wider than the space between the extractor and the bolt face. You start at the firing pin hole and gentally let it feed out. I have done quite a few like this without removing the extractor.

When I do something like this, including chasing threads in actions, I turn the chuck by hand. That way you do not risk any thing happenning before you can shut things down.......jackie
 
I use a tool cut similar to Jackies to go under the extractor, but start the cut at the hump beside the ejector pin hole at tjhe outside of the bolt face and feed in towards the firing pin hole under power at the slowest feed of the lathe. Then hit the bolt face with 320 grit sandpaper held over the end of a dowell. More than one way to skin a cat and still come up with the same result.
 
It is no problem at all to remove the extractor, and you can get just the pin from Brownells to peen it back in when done with the bolt face. I know alot of 'smiths do it like it is mentioned above, but I've never had any luck trying to do it that way...I'm probably not making the bit correctly. It has always been so easy to get the extractor out for me that I just always do it that way.
 
At one time riveted extractors were hard to get and is why I made a hss tool to go in behind the extractor and face off the bolt face without removing the extractor. It worked well enough that their wasn't any need to remove the extractors when they became available and I've continued using the tool.
 
Do you not have to shorten the firing pin after doing this by the same amount you took off the bolt face.
 
Jackie,when chasing internal reciwver threads by hand..... do you disengage the half nut lever at the end....???? and cut a relief.... otherwise how do you keep from chipping tool....????
 
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