Polyalphaolefin (POA)

4

4 Liberty

Guest
Polyalphaolefin (POA)...... My research says that Mobil 1 (100% synthetic) and Frog Lube has or IS POA. With a pour point of around -20C (-68F) and flash point of around 250C (482F) I am considering using POA. Anyone with experience with POA?
 
just what are you going to use this special stuff for?
Centerfire
ARs are supposed to run wet. Petrol based oils can tar-up if overheated. The ideal lube is one with high flashpoint and extremely low ash. If this is the case you can add it without subsequent gum-up. All lubes will vaporize inside an AR bolt carrier, depending, of course, on the level of sustained fire. Eventually, carbon powder from burnt gun powder will build-up and cleaning will be necessary. (I think of the inside of an AR bolt carrier like I think of a combustion chamber without an exhaust valve.) I personally believe that, without extreme build-up, the "carbon precipitates" will act as a dry lubricant for a period of time. The trick is to get the gun to run with as little wear as possible until the level of carbon demands cleaning. We have all seen the "ultimate AR meltdown" video. If we think about it, we have never been taught by anyone that you can fire 830 full auto rounds through an AR without cleaning it----let alone without adding lubrication. That DI AR did it without cleaning or adding lube----until the barrel melted and blew. That's why they change barrels on a machine gun.
 
Any synthetic motor oil will not turn to carbon under the heat/ pressure. Mobil 1 is a favorite among full auto guys. One other thing i do is soak the bolt carrier in slick 50 for a week or so every once in a while. I run an m14 dry just like they do in the modern arena with the exception of bolt roller and hammer. With the slick 50 soaking the whole action it still is parkerized on the slides where my m1a rifles lubed normally are silver there
 
+1 0n the slick 50

The group I used to run with shot archery tournaments every weekend. They simmered the bushings and axels that the wheels that compound bow run on and produces a measurable increase in speed. Try using a little heat on your bolt Dusty and the slick 50 will stay in the pores of the metal.
 
Have you guys tried the product "DriSlide"? It is a dry film lube that comes from a liquid M0S2?

Used it a lot on the control cables when I was racing dirt bikes. Put it on the front brake cable at the wheel hub and it would run uphill to the brake lever.

http://www.drislide.com/


.
 
Inside of barrels?

Just wondering if anyone has tried this sort of thing on barrel bores to minimize fouling?

Pete
 
Just wondering if anyone has tried this sort of thing on barrel bores to minimize fouling?

Pete

Pete, if you are asking about DriSlide, my answer would be no. DriSlide is a liquid suspended solid (MoS2) and as such would leave a hard film that might cause bore damage unless it is patched out really clean. Many shooters use a microfine graphite like NAPA LockEEz but it needs to be applied very sparingly.

Not knowing the Pchem structure of MoS2 I probably wouldn't try it. Stan Buchtel and some others have sold colloidal graphite products for bore break-in and as a post-cleaning barrel prep. Kelblys sold and recommended it for a while. The NAPA LockEEz is a colloidal, meaning microfine particles.

Just on the surface and as a guess MoS2 is a compound where LockEEz contains an elemental item, carbon.
 
Polyalphaolefin (POA)...... My research says that Mobil 1 (100% synthetic) and Frog Lube has or IS POA. With a pour point of around -20C (-68F) and flash point of around 250C (482F) I am considering using POA. Anyone with experience with POA?

Not to be a smart*** but it's PAO, not POA. POA on a gun forum means Point Of Aim.;)
 
how about applying real world facts to the view.
while they are legal, how many actually own a full auto ar ?
second, of all the full auto ar owners, how many are capable of carrying TWENTY EIGHT loaded 30 round mags along with their rifle ????( the gun failed on mag 28....27x 30 plus 20).
third...normal clean and lube, including bolt carrier group,will keep the average ar running just fine.


m14..the only reason they were run dry was in dessert storm they clogged when they showed up in full lube. the answer was to remove the wet lube and dry lube. unless you are expecting a sand storm no reason to run an m14 or clone dry.

ARs are supposed to run wet. Petrol based oils can tar-up if overheated. The ideal lube is one with high flashpoint and extremely low ash. If this is the case you can add it without subsequent gum-up. All lubes will vaporize inside an AR bolt carrier, depending, of course, on the level of sustained fire. Eventually, carbon powder from burnt gun powder will build-up and cleaning will be necessary. (I think of the inside of an AR bolt carrier like I think of a combustion chamber without an exhaust valve.) I personally believe that, without extreme build-up, the "carbon precipitates" will act as a dry lubricant for a period of time. The trick is to get the gun to run with as little wear as possible until the level of carbon demands cleaning. We have all seen the "ultimate AR meltdown" video. If we think about it, we have never been taught by anyone that you can fire 830 full auto rounds through an AR without cleaning it----let alone without adding lubrication. That DI AR did it without cleaning or adding lube----until the barrel melted and blew. That's why they change barrels on a machine gun.
 
DO I HAVE A TWIN IN CO ???
i am thinking about getting into long range br..a friend has land and plays at it.
i am not a br shooter, i have one ar from when i shot cmp matches, but had it shortened to 18" and added a ff handguard and a collaspable buttt stock. had to move it out of the state.
or is it just when someone has an opinion that is not the same as the br crowd, he is an automatic outcast ?

what does an ar failing at 800 plus rounds on full auto have to do with br ??

Come on mike not again
 
4Liberty-
Try some Super Lube from the aerosol can.
Sprays on like WD40 & tacks up thicker than white lithium grease.
Color is translucent clear.


Spray inside an AR upper, move around w/ a Q tip & let tack up.
Spray the dis-assembled carrier/bolt & firing pin & re-assemble.

90% of carbon in the upper & BCG can be wiped away after shooting w/ a shop towel/rag.

I've been running the stuff for 20+years.
 
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