Neck turning

J

JBO

Guest
Greetings Gents



I'm new to neck turning and need a little advice/help. I turned the necks on my once fired prepped Lapua 284 brass. I started out before turning at .310 and took off .0015 , just enough to clean them up. After loading 20 rounds of my normal load, which normally shoots pretty well, I headed to the range this morning. They were all over the place.

My question, do they need to be fire formed to my chamber after neck turning or do I need to start all over with seating depth and load development etc.?
Thanks Jim
 
By turning .0015 off the necks you have lost .003 grip on the bullet if you are using a fixed neck sizing die. Bushing neck dies let you select the exact grip desired. If you were seating the bullets long into the lands before neck turning, the lighter grip after turning can result in the bullet being pushed back into the case giving a shorter OAL. Also, some powders require a tighter grip to give best results.
 
By turning .0015 off the necks you have lost .003 grip on the bullet if you are using a fixed neck sizing die. Bushing neck dies let you select the exact grip desired. If you were seating the bullets long into the lands before neck turning, the lighter grip after turning can result in the bullet being pushed back into the case giving a shorter OAL. Also, some powders require a tighter grip to give best results.

I just wasn't thinking when I removed .0015 that I'm actually removing .003 . Yikes, no wonder! It's not the first mistake, I'll learn from it. Appreciate the help from you and alinwa. Hunted and shot rifles all my life, thought I'd be great at this with all the shooting I've done. It's really humbling watching how great you guy's shoot and I really have no clue..... yet! I definitely will keep trying to get better at this and the mistakes I make I'll try not making again... appreciate the help.
 
Are you working with a tight neck chamber? What's your neck chamber size? And, what's your goal for the Outside Diameter of a loaded round with a bullet seated? .002" total clearance would be a good start, if achievable. You've got great brass. Your proper choice of powder, weight of charge, neck tension, seating depth, primer choice, and custom made bullets, will fine tune your accuracy requirement.
 
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If you don't have a tight neck chamber about all you likely did by neck turning was to shorten case life unless you're religious and good at annealing case necks. Your case necks now have to expand another 3 thou and need to be sized back down enough to get the bullet pull you need. Your necks will harden before their time and start to split. Don't ask how I know this.
 
No, I'm not working with a tight neck chamber, that's where I screwed. Having turned them .0015 would you have any suggestion? I measured the brass after shooting and the necks were .3195. A loaded round neck measures .3095 Would getting a smaller neck bushing .308 help the issue or is this chamber just too large for me even to turn the necks?
I'm using 55.6 4831sc, 180 Bergers VLD, 215 Fed match with a 26" Criterion Match barrel . Another dumb question, does everyone that turns necks have a tight neck chamber? Thanks J
 
Hi J,

No, you don't need a tightneck chamber to turn your
casenecks but for a standard chamber it's suitable to
just touch the necks, cutting ~70% of the surface.
Choose a bushing that meassures 0,002-0,003 under
a round with a bullet seated.

Regards
Emil - Sweden
 
Ok, I'll order a couple bushings .308 & .307 and try that... thanks the help gents.
 
OK...... there is a real reason for neckturning but ONLY if your parent brass is fatter than your chamber neck, by plan. A long time ago experimenters realized that bullets don't just slip easily into the lands of the rifle. Instead they're forced in with a 600lb hammerblow, a swirling, whirling turmoil of gas and particles and tremendous pressure which JAMS the poor bullet into the hole with the lands tearing and crimping at the jacket, causing the lead to flow like water and gener'y buffeting the beejeebers out of the wee beastie.

For this to all happen properly the cartridge case must first and foremost do the job for which it was designed and developed.

That of a GASKET.

The cartridge case is a GASKET, it ain't just a convenient way to carry powder and ball.

For it to work as a gasket it must gask properly which means that as the pressure builds it LETS GO OF THE BULLET and opens itself up to plaster itself against the chamber/neck walls. And it works. It works well..... generally only a small bit of the gas finds it's way around the end of the neck before the case is tightly sealed, ironed against the walls of the chamber. Some handloaders get to experience what happens when too low pressur buggers up this process and the case DOESN'T seal up properly......... "pleated" cases, staining and wrinkles all down the sides and maybe even a blast of gas.

WEAR THOSE SAFETY GLASSES CHI'DRUN!!! God gener'ly gives ya' one fer free but that's no excuse!

So anyways, the neck opens up to seal the system and the bullet's just hanging there with it's hindquarters in the breeze. And it's quite a breeze, building to near a gale before that bullet starts ripping it's way into the rifling lands....Ain't no neck ON IT..... In other words the bullet WILL be slammed up against one side or the other of the neck, randomly. ALL bullets under ALL conditions. And said bullet will maintain that attitude (only worse, picture 600lb and building pushing against a bent-over bullet) all the way to the target. A loose neck leaves the bullet with a built-in cant (it's often termed in-bore yaw) as it travels down the barrel. This built-in cant coupled with 200-300,000rpms rotation leads to inaccuracy.

Hence turned necks.

Turning necks originated as a way to lessen in-bore yaw. You still need some clearance so's you can get the round in but generally speaking, it's a truism that less clearance equals less cant on the bullet, less in-bore yaw. "Tight necked" chambers were developed to give the use a way to play with this clearance. A tight neck and a tight freebore act to keep the bullet as straight as possible whilst it's HAMMERED down the pipe.

Turning necks on already large-nekkid chambers is like adding more grease to a burnt out bearing hoping it'll "take out some play on the shaft..."

opinionsby








al
 
BTW, if you wanna' play with tight neckkidness and neckturning you can still make your cases from longer brass........no wait, no ya' can't!

Ain't no longer cases.......

in your case


LOL

al
 
No, I'm not working with a tight neck chamber, that's where I screwed. Having turned them .0015 would you have any suggestion? I measured the brass after shooting and the necks were .3195. A loaded round neck measures .3095 Would getting a smaller neck bushing .308 help the issue or is this chamber just too large for me even to turn the necks?
I'm using 55.6 4831sc, 180 Bergers VLD, 215 Fed match with a 26" Criterion Match barrel . Another dumb question, does everyone that turns necks have a tight neck chamber? Thanks J



I don't see a problem here. Your blowing your necks out .010". That's .005" a side. Sure, that isn't exactly "ideal benchrest tolerances", but I've seen many a factory gun that were in that area that shot just fine. True, your necks are moving a bit more than what you probably were hoping for, but they will still last plenty long enough before (or if) they split. Just get a smaller bushing so you have appropriate neck tension once again, and play a bit with your powder charge, and you'll be able to find something that shoots fine most likely.

The answer to your second question; no, I turn necks for every gun, tight-necked or not. When a gun is a standard chamber, I don't cut off any more than just the fat side so there's even bullet release. There is the rare occasion when Lapua or Norma brass will be half thou different from fat to thin, and on those, I may not turn. But everything else (especially American brass) gets a turnin'.:)
 
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