Jewell trigger install

R

rain164845

Guest
How simple is the installation of a Jewell trigger onto a custom action like a stiller predator? Is it a matter of driving in 2 pins and then adjusting the trigger, or are there more complex issues? I read about timing an action to the trigger or vice versa on Borden's website. I am considering having a smith barrel an action for me, and doing the rest of the work myself.

Thanks,
Joe
 
I have built several hunting rifles on Stiller Predator actions with Jewell triggers. For me, it was indeed just a matter of driving in 2 pins and testing / adjusting as needed. I have also installed many Jewell triggers on factory Remington 700s and some of them needed a little fitting. When you order your Jewell trigger, be sure to specify without bolt release since they are not used on Predators or most custom actions.

Scott Roeder
 
thanks

Thanks, I figured that was all there was to it.
Joe
 
That is not all there is to it

The "assembler's" answer is that all you do is drive the two pins through and adjust trigger weight of pull. However, there is far more that goes into it than that. After Market triggers do not all have the same pick up point on the sear bar as the Remington did and since triggers vary from trigger to trigger in some brands (not Jewell for past few years), you may not have as much firing pin fall as you need. Also if the sear bar pickup point is too far forward, the cocking piece will follow the bolt closing cam until it picks up on the sear bar. The if you leave the trigger cocked and open bolt you will notice that it stops at the extraction cam-that means if you actually fire the rifle and start opening bolt-the trigger will cock prematurely and the firing pin will stop moving, then as bolt opening continues you hit the extraction cam and then the nose of the cp again-no you not only need to extract the case-but start a compressed spring and stationary firing pin moving again.

Yeah--there is nothing to it! Just install the two pins, pull trigger and gun goes bang--However, as you can see it does not mean everything is working correctly!

There is .05 to .06 variation between brands on cp pickup point!

Jim
 
And just think, Jim doesn't HAVE to share this stuff with us!!!

Thank you Jim.

and thank you Wilbur.......

And pthlpthlpthlplplplp to alla' you'se that think this board is less than perfect.

al
 
Jim Borden said:
The "assembler's" answer is that all you do is drive the two pins through and adjust trigger weight of pull.

Jim
Click to expand...

No disagreement here. Please note that the question and my answer was specific to Stiller Predator actions and Jewell triggers. I have not had the same experience with all Factory Remingtons and Jim is certainly correct about the .05 to .06 variation between triggers of manufacturers other than Jewell. I have even had aftermarket triggers that had the retaining pin holes mis- located. My experience with exactly 5 Predator actions and the 5 Jewell triggers I mated to them was that the sear bar engagement was reasonable on every one of them. This doesn't mean that the next one will be, but I would be surprised. I probably should have mentioned that Remington factory hunting stocks and some aftermarket stocks do need some material removed from the trigger mortise for clearance as the Jewell trigger and safety are a bit larger than the Remington.

Scott Roeder
 
Last edited:
Jim Borden said:
The "assembler's" answer is that all you do is drive the two pins through and adjust trigger weight of pull. However, there is far more that goes into it than that. After Market triggers do not all have the same pick up point on the sear bar as the Remington did and since triggers vary from trigger to trigger in some brands (not Jewell for past few years), you may not have as much firing pin fall as you need. Also if the sear bar pickup point is too far forward, the cocking piece will follow the bolt closing cam until it picks up on the sear bar. The if you leave the trigger cocked and open bolt you will notice that it stops at the extraction cam-that means if you actually fire the rifle and start opening bolt-the trigger will cock prematurely and the firing pin will stop moving, then as bolt opening continues you hit the extraction cam and then the nose of the cp again-no you not only need to extract the case-but start a compressed spring and stationary firing pin moving again.

Yeah--there is nothing to it! Just install the two pins, pull trigger and gun goes bang--However, as you can see it does not mean everything is working correctly!

There is .05 to .06 variation between brands on cp pickup point!

Jim
Click to expand...

Jim,
Would you care to address the proper way to fix this on an action that does not have a trigger hanger? If you don't want to I understand, but I'm a little curious.

Thanks,

James
 
James

It depends on what the issues are --if it is just short firing pin fall, then cut off the firing pin by the needed amount and put in new hole, But if the extraction to cocking is off, then either a custom made cocking piece or recut cam in the bolt until you can get to neutral or neutral plus for cocking. When I reworked Remingtons and some other actions, i would often have to recut the closing cam in front of action so it matched the extraction cam helix (if it was truly a helix) and recut cocking cam in bolt and replace firing pin and cocking piece.

Another thing you can do-depending on the brand of trigger is replace the trigger sear bar with one that has the pickup point closer to the original Remington point.

The Jewells of the past few years have been very consistent-but there were a few years when they varied up to .05 from trigger to trigger.

Jim
 
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