I just picked up a Unertl Ultra Varmint 15x scope with metered head. What are some tips and tricks to adjusting and maintaining a Unertl to keep it in tip top shape? It needs a little cleaning and the metered head gets tight when trying to focus down to 50ft. It comes close to the line, but gets tight and I'm afraid to force it. Also, it has a dot...any idea on the size? Looks rather large. I have a 1/4 moa dot in a 4-16x Weaver and its way larger. Can these be changed? Anyhow...all you Unertl experts...lets hear some of your knowledge!
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In's and out's of a Unertl scope...
- Thread starter DSM
- Start date
Bob Kingsbury
New member
DSM, I have two more 15X unertals if you like them
The biggest secret is to not lock down the screw on the rear windage an elevation. The reason is once you have adjusted your scope then tighten the screw the POI will change a bit PLUS if your not an Unertl person you'll forget an start adjusting an screw up the whole thing because you forgot to loosen the screw!! I've heard of two people doing this.
Jeff Aberegg
Jeff Aberegg
The biggest secret is to not lock down the screw on the rear windage an elevation. The reason is once you have adjusted your scope then tighten the screw the POI will change a bit PLUS if your not an Unertl person you'll forget an start adjusting an screw up the whole thing because you forgot to loosen the screw!! I've heard of two people doing this.
Jeff Aberegg
Are you talking about the screw on the upper right hand corner of the mount? I'm not really following you on the adjustment. Do you adjust it once and let it alone? What is the purpose of the screw?
I just picked up a Unertl Ultra Varmint 15x scope with metered head. What are some tips and tricks to adjusting and maintaining a Unertl to keep it in tip top shape? It needs a little cleaning and the metered head gets tight when trying to focus down to 50ft. It comes close to the line, but gets tight and I'm afraid to force it. Also, it has a dot...any idea on the size? Looks rather large. I have a 1/4 moa dot in a 4-16x Weaver and its way larger. Can these be changed? Anyhow...all you Unertl experts...lets hear some of your knowledge!
keep the caps on to protect the optics, light oil on the body to prevent rust, if it has a recoil spring release the lock when you are done shooting to release spring compression, AND DON'T FORCE ANYTHING!!
Regarding your front objective it is a push push system so one ring always has to be out of contact with the lens cell for it to move in that direction. Now that Gil Parsons has died I'm not sure where you can go to get one fixed by a really competent person. There may be some but I'm not aware of them. AND like WIlbur says don't remove the eyepiece and stick you finger up the tube or your crosshair will be history. The two screws on the knurled ring ahead of the eyepiece are to loosen the ring and allow adjusting the x hair in the vertical and horizontal. Take care of it they are nice scopes!! --Greg
In order to remove the cross hair tube you have to remove the 2 screws holding the power ring. The brass tube can then be carefully removed. It sounds like you have either 3/8 or 1/2 minute dot. PM me if you want any other information. I will help if I can. Forgot to say you have to remove the eyepiece first. All this has to be done VERY CAREFULLY.
Wayne
Wayne
B
B.Johnson
Guest
When trying to focus down to 50', be aware the division marks on the scope could well not be in agreement, certainly don't force the ring. If the scope goes into proper focus don't worry about the mark's. They are only a guideling. Do not leave a unertl in a overheated space such as a guncase in a car. This can seperate the lenses. I had this happen on my 6X gallery scope.
Thanks for all the tips and tricks guys! Very helpful. Couple more questions I have here...
How much tension should I put on the recoil spring? Also do I need to lube where the scope tube glides on the front mount and fingers on the rear mount?
I hope to get it out to the range in the next couple weeks after I pillar the BDL.
Trigger on the BDL, Jewell, Timney or Shilen? I have all Jewell on my Pandas and like them. I didn't really want to dump $230 on this factory BDL though, lol
How much tension should I put on the recoil spring? Also do I need to lube where the scope tube glides on the front mount and fingers on the rear mount?
I hope to get it out to the range in the next couple weeks after I pillar the BDL.
Trigger on the BDL, Jewell, Timney or Shilen? I have all Jewell on my Pandas and like them. I didn't really want to dump $230 on this factory BDL though, lol
martin zuck
Member
I never used the spring on either one of mine I just pulled back the tube after each shot. I always figured there was no reason to beat up the yoke. A little lube on the rail won't hurt but don't worry about the adjustment end, the tubes are made of hardened steel.
S
Scoperepair
Guest
DSM,
When adjusting the objective to 50 feet make sure the front locking ring is adjusted up far enough up to allow the lens cell to move that far. If it is stiff try using a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the area where the objective lens cell slides. This should soften up any hardened grease that may be restricting the movement of the lens cell.
Like B.Johnson said, the marks may not give you the best parallax setting when set at the distance you are shooting. Always do the test where you move your head while keeping the rifle still and see if the dot moves on the target. If it does move on the target adjust the objective a little at a time either way until the dot stops moving.
As far as regular maintenance goes all the other posters have been on the money. Keep the lens caps in place, use a light gun oil all over; especially in areas where you touch the scope a lot. In the areas where the mounts touch the tube just use the same light gun oil.
As for dots, TK Lee Company (do a google search and find their website).
As for tension on the spring, you don't need much. The purpose of the spring is to return the tube to the rear after the recoil pushes the tube forward. Use as little tension as possible.
I saw your pics of the setup in your other post. The eyepiece on your scope seems to be made of aluminum. The original eyepieces on these were steel. Has the eyepiece been replaced? Is it maybe an magnification increasing eyepiece?
If you have any other scope questions feel free to ask.
JB
www.qualityscoperepair.com
When adjusting the objective to 50 feet make sure the front locking ring is adjusted up far enough up to allow the lens cell to move that far. If it is stiff try using a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the area where the objective lens cell slides. This should soften up any hardened grease that may be restricting the movement of the lens cell.
Like B.Johnson said, the marks may not give you the best parallax setting when set at the distance you are shooting. Always do the test where you move your head while keeping the rifle still and see if the dot moves on the target. If it does move on the target adjust the objective a little at a time either way until the dot stops moving.
As far as regular maintenance goes all the other posters have been on the money. Keep the lens caps in place, use a light gun oil all over; especially in areas where you touch the scope a lot. In the areas where the mounts touch the tube just use the same light gun oil.
As for dots, TK Lee Company (do a google search and find their website).
As for tension on the spring, you don't need much. The purpose of the spring is to return the tube to the rear after the recoil pushes the tube forward. Use as little tension as possible.
I saw your pics of the setup in your other post. The eyepiece on your scope seems to be made of aluminum. The original eyepieces on these were steel. Has the eyepiece been replaced? Is it maybe an magnification increasing eyepiece?
If you have any other scope questions feel free to ask.
JB
www.qualityscoperepair.com