How involved is it to develop a good load?

Z

zeke mccune

Member
Hi All:

I would like to know how much time and effort do:(:confused::rolleyes: you people spend before you develop a load that is suitable for your use.

I have 4 new barrels to work up loads for and I have no idea as to how much time that this will take. The calibers are .17 Rem., .25 06, .270 Win., 7mm Rem. mag. and and a 30 Gibbs. My goodness, that is 5 guns!

In the past, I have taken my loading tools with me and worked from the bench to try to get to a good load. This method still takes a great deal of time to develop a good load.


Any suggestion as to how I can reach good loads without spending a lot of time. Oh yes, the suggested loads published in loading manuals as being the most accurate have proven to be invalid in my guns thus no help at all.


TIA,

Zeke
 
Zeke ...

zeke mccune said:
Hi All:

I would like to know how much time and effort you people spend before you develop a load that is suitable for your use.

In the past, I have taken my loading tools with me and worked from the bench to try to get to a good load. This method still takes a great deal of time to develop a good load.

Any suggestion as to how I can reach good loads without spending a lot of time. Oh yes, the suggested loads published in loading manuals as being the most accurate have proven to be invalid in my guns thus no help at all. TIA, Zeke
Click to expand...

If you goal is a hunting target with an 8" diameter it won't take much effort at all. If your goal is putting a bullet through it's own hole, it's going to take a little more effort.

Here is a load development process I summarized for myself, compliments of Lee Euber, taken from Precision Magazine's The Benchrest Shooting Primer, starting on page 197:

"Scanning" For The Right Load …. by Lee Euber

1. Polish bullet with steel wool. Initial seating depth achieved when bullet is marked by all lands. [Tony Boyer likes to see a “square.” ... my comments]

POWDER

2. Load 3 cases in a low grain load. Increase each 3 case load by .5 of a grain, and then shoot. Increase loads until primers show pressure.

3. Identify shots that grouped well, not so good, and then good again.

4. Pick load that shot the best. Load 3 cases with .1 grain less, and 3 with .1 grain more, for another comparison.

5. After picking charge for use, load 30 cases with the same powder charge.

SEATING DEPTH

6. Load the 30 cases in groups of 3, increasing the seating depth from touching the lands to jumping about .040 of an inch, in increments of .005 of an inch.

7. Shoot all 30 rounds without cleaning or clean after each 10.

8. Use ONE fouling shot after each cleaning.

9. Select load that shot best. Load 5 cases with that powder charge and seating depth.

10. Load 10 cases, 5 with seating depth .005 less than benchmark figure and 5 with .005 more.

11. Can compare more than once or change seating depth by .001 or .002.

12. Once you’ve picked the best seating depth, load 15 cases at that depth.

POWDER

13. Check first test by varying charge by .1 grain, for each 5 shot group.

14. Shoot in a medium wind condition, letting the gun do the work.

SEATING DEPTH

15. After picking the best load jumping the lands, compare it with the load that touches. Compare these loads again and again, on different days, in varying conditions, deciding which one is best.

16. If it doesn’t shoot to your satisfaction, restart with a different powder.

NECK TENSION

17. If you decide on the load that puts the bullet in the lands, be sure neck tension is tight enough to hold the bullet uniformly.

18. Its hard work if you want to go to matches and be in contention.

Hope this helps you with your decision. Art :)
 
Bob Brushingham said:
Google or Yahoo search (Dan Newberrys optimal charge weight). This is a great way for the calibers mentioned.
Click to expand...


if you like wasting powder and bullets...


if not just do a standard ladder test.....10 steps or so from max down...use 1/100 of case volume for steps. the object is to see if there is a node where the powder change has little affect on the next or previous shot. shoot all ten on one target, with same point of aim. circle shots 1/2, 123, 234, 345, 456, 567,678,789, 8910, 910. also look at 4 and 5 shot groups.

if you find a sweet spot or two , then try fine tuning them for the best.

fairly simple process for your type rifles.

consider looking a sierra manual for best powder for a caliber.
 
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Working up loads

zeke, I do a lot of varmint hunting and I usely pick one bullet type, two different types of cases two types of primers and two different powders. This is enough to create four variables not counting the bullet to work with and I start just above starting load listed for that caliber and bullet. The manuals
have been a good thing for me. I find it unusual that you can't get good loads from the manuals. you should find one out of those 4 that performs best
.I seat bullets .010" off of the lands and choose a powder mention above for that particular cal. For 25-06 I recomend Imr4831 if no luck try Imr4895 for 30calibers I have had good luck with Imr3031. Might even want to try a magnum
Primer. Thats what worked well in my 30-30.
vmaxx
 
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When I first starting loading I figured that every possible bullet and powder combination that was reasonable needed to be "tested". That's a good way to keep bullet and powder companies thriving (good thing!), and spend a lot of your money (not necessarily a good thing!).

Most bullets these days are plenty accurate enough for their intended use. Mass produced live varmint bullets will all shoot half MOA groups in rifles capable of it. Hunting bullets are all capable of between 1 and 2 MOA or better. A half MOA deer rifle may be good for bragging rights, but the guy who can shoot in the field and has a rifle that shoots 2 MOA will do better than the guy who has the half MOA rifle but can't shoot it well.

Pick a bullet that will do what you want the rifle to do. Check out several manuals and read what they have to say about best powders for that caliber. Try a couple of them at various levels. If those powders don't seem to work in your rifles try some powders of similar burn rates. Your best load will likely be with a charge that fills or nearly fills the case to the base of the bullet or has to be compressed some. In hunting rifles primers as long as they're appropriate for the caliber and powder haven't seemed to make much difference to me.

Do NOT rely on any manuals velocities. Check them with a chronograph.

Load 3 rounds with the powders you've chosen from starting to the average maximum manual loads from the several manuals. Regardless of what the manuals say, if you've reached the average maximum powder charge with no signs of excessive pressures carefully increase the charge. This is especially true if your velocities are well below the manual velocity. If you're qualified to judge pressures below the manual maximum charge you should be qualified to judge them above the manual maximum as well.
 
Working in the field

In the past, I have taken my loading tools with me and worked from the bench to try to get to a good load. This method still takes a great deal of time to develop a good load.


Any suggestion as to how I can reach good loads without spending a lot of time. Oh yes, the suggested loads published in loading manuals as being the most accurate have proven to be invalid in my guns thus no help at all.


TIA,

Zeke

Loading at the range IS the most efficient and fastest way.


>>> Wind flags or a set of "indicators".... By indicators I mean if no wind flags, then 3-4 wood dowl rods with 2 1/2 - 3' long serveyor tape. Place out at 25yard intervals at 100yds.... Gotta see the wind to know why some shots are ... Out. Not just for Benchresters.
<<<

Good luck
cale
 
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