Hopefully not too silly a question about installing a muzzle brake.

V

VaniB

New member
I hope this doesn't sound like a stupid question; but can you install a muzzle brake onto the barrel as is? Or do you have to remove the scope, and also take the barrel off of the action to do it? I was hoping that perhaps some kind of a chuck is locked onto the end of the barrel and the balance of the rifle is a non-issue while the machining is going on.


I'm thinking of a Hollands MB.
 
VaniB;
I have never seen anyone thread a barrel for a brake with the barrel in the receiver and/or the scope on the gun. I would think anyone willing to try would be slightly suspect. But...................

Mike Swartz
 
Well then I guess that answers that. I'll leave the rifle alone until I shoot out the barrel. (which may never happen)

I'll know next time NOT to expect a 17 1/4 lb rifle to be able to maintain a sight picture on a full load 22-250 sized cartridge. I'll plan on a muzzle brake beforehand. Thanks.
 
Muzzle Break

If you don't want to take the barrel off there are other alternatives to the task. Send it out and have the breaks EDM'd in, or have them drilled in. I have a couple of rifles that have them drilled in, the one in the picture attached is on a .338 and it works "Very" well, with no compromise in accuracy. I had a deer rifle in 25-06 that the same pattern was put on, and on the bench I could see the hole apear in the target. Several of the big caliber rifles now have them done with an EDM machine, and they will litterly take the jump out of the heaviest of calibers. The one thing you will "have" to do is remove the scope and other attachments to do it with the EDM process, drilling you will not have to disturb any of the set up other than taking it out of the stock.

My question is how much recoil are you getting out of a 17.5 lb. gun in 22-250 ? Is it your intent to see the bullet impact ? I have a 13.5 22-244 AI shooting 80 gr. VLD's and 53 gr. of powder that I can see the bullet impact with at 300 & 400 yards, and the 22-250 is considerably smaller in bullet weight and recoil. - ?

Phantom
 

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If you have a long lathe bed you can do the job. I have done many with going through the headstock.

I have a long mandrel that fits through the action. It has a 60 degree end to it that stops up against the chamber holding the action away the chuck. I grab it in the chuck and fiddle it around until there is less than 2 thou run out on the end of it. I can usually get it to a thou or less. Then I slide the action on to it and insert a live center into the muzzle. The mandrel has a screw that acts as a dog within the action rails/port area. I have already run a piloted 60 degree reamer in the muzzle too help center on the bore. Now I machine and thread the barrel. The finished job is as as good as if you had dialed it in through the headstock and done it.
 
Yup . .

Dennis is correct, "if" you have a long bed lathe. But if your concern is pulling the scope and other equipment off, just about what ever you do, you will have to do that. - IMHO !!

Phantom
 
You can thread the muzzle for a brake with the receiver in place if you have a spider on your lathe and the barrel is long enough. Never with the scope in place though. Indicate the muzzle in as you would the breech for chambering. After the brake is installed, indicate the OD of the barrel to run true, turn down and blend the brake for a seamless fit.
 
Ahhh.....so then there ARE possible ways without removing the action.

I have not taken this rifle out to any range yet beyond 100 yards. I can tell you at 100 yards I cannot get a sight picture of an exploding water balloon. I am hoping when I do finally bring it to long distance firing range, I will get a sight picture at least at 250-300 yards. I will likely proceed with putting a Holland's MB on it if isn't capable of that. I supppose I can live with having to take ther scope off. Thank you gents for the good info.

PHANTOM
Thanks for the input. It is easier for me to call it a "22-250" then to confuse some folks by calling it what it is: It's a 22- 6.5x47 (aka 22x47L) Most folks can conjur up a mental image of a 22-250 real quick, but not a 22x47L. This cartrudge holds slightly more powder then a 22-250, but a little less then a 22-250AI. My rifle has a heavy 29" tapered 1-8.25 barrel and was built with the intent of shooting long distance PD. I will shoot 75 grain Amax bullets exclusively with it. (it shoots these very well at 3,400fps) With 40 grains of powder, recoil in this 17.25 lb rifle is estimated to be at 4.6 lbs. Compare that with 2.2 Lbs of recoil in my 20Tac, and I guess that's why I can't see the exploding ballon at 100 yards with this rifle, while I can see bullets land on paper with my 14lb 20Tac rifle.

However, it's encouraging to hear you say that I might not have that problem at longer ranges. I'd prefer to see hits at 200 yards, but will settle for a sight picture starting at about 300 yards. If need be that it doesn't behave at 300 yards, I will very likely proceed to put a Holland's muzzle brake on it. I hope I don't have to, as I'd prefer to just leave it alone now that it's finished and looking and shooting very pretty.
 
Why, may I ask, are you opposed to taking the scope off? You will need to resight the rifle in anyway if you have any work done on the barrel and I would not trust it to go back to the same point of aim just taking it out of the stock. I usually set my reciever screws with a torque wrench. It should not be a big deal to get it sighted back in.
 
I agree....

wnroscoe said:
You can thread the muzzle for a brake with the receiver in place if you have a spider on your lathe and the barrel is long enough. Never with the scope in place though. Indicate the muzzle in as you would the breech for chambering. After the brake is installed, indicate the OD of the barrel to run true, turn down and blend the brake for a seamless fit.
Click to expand...


I dial in on the O.D. of the barrel on the chamber end, and off the lands and grooves on the muzzle end. I have never had any problems, even if there is "some" runout at the chamber end, a few thousands over 24+" isn't much if the muzzle end is concentric with the bore (lands and grooves). A spider is a necessity as mentioned above.

Just my .02 cents worth,
MED.
 
Eagle_view said:
Why, may I ask, are you opposed to taking the scope off?....
Click to expand...

I sight my scope in the old fashioned way without a bore-sighting tool or laser. I sight in my scopes by coordinating it to a spot 100 yards away that can be seen looking through my barrel bore. It worked, but has taken a lot of patience and a lot of trial and error. But yes.... I'm reluctant but I am willing to take the scope and bases off if a muzzle brake can be installed without removing the barrel.

As it turns out, I contacted my smith today via Email (Pete Pieper of Precision Barrel Works) and he will not attempt to do the muzzle brake installation without taking the barrel off. Maybe he doesn't have the necessary "spider" or equipment, or perhaps he just feels the work is too risky without removing the barrel.(??)

I'll plan to go to the 300 yrd firing range in the next week with a grapefruit. I sure hope I get that desired sight picture of the bullet hitting it at 300 yards........because I am not willing to have my smith pull apart the whole cotton-picking rifle to put on a muzzle brake for me.
 
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