Glued versus screwed??

tiny68

Member
I read on the forum that multiple shooters mentioned success with a pillar bedded stock instead of the traditional glue-in. All the glue-in I have seen don't use a recoil lug (or it is incorporated in the action). With those that used the pillar-bed, do you use a traditional recoil or just screw the barrel into the barrel?

Just a greenhorn question in the winter time.... Tim
 
I read on the forum that multiple shooters mentioned success with a pillar bedded stock instead of the traditional glue-in. All the glue-in I have seen don't use a recoil lug (or it is incorporated in the action). With those that used the pillar-bed, do you use a traditional recoil or just screw the barrel into the barrel?

Just a greenhorn question in the winter time.... Tim

Please proof read this and see if you still mean what it says.---MIke
 
I have in the last few years become a big believer in pillar bedded rifles, but yes a recoil lug is necessary with this type bedding job.
 
IMO the main reason for gluing only is cost and to a lesser extent weight. A proper pillar bedding job is equally accurate and in some ways more handy but a couple hundred dollars more work......

Yes, as Dick points out, pillar bedding needs a lug.

al
 
Quite a while back, at the Visalia range, I asked the glue or pillar question to a group that included Lee Six, Gary Ocock, Dennis Thornbury, and a few other lightweights:D Lee suprised me when he said "both". As a option, Lee would build your stock with aluminum pillars imbedded under the fiberglass skin. This was primarily done for those who planned an ordinary pillar bedding job. The stock could then be drilled for action screws through the inner shell, the pillars, and the outer shell. Lee was of the opinion that by doing a pillar bedding job, and then gluing (without tightening the screws and then tightening the action screws after the glue-in had set up, a better bedding job would be achieved. I have no doubt that he had experimented with various methods of building Benchrest rifles before he reached that conclusion, and I think that his reputation as a stock manufacturer, and bedder speaks for itself. Have any of you tried this?
 
The Tiger Wood's solution: screwed and glued both

I feel screwing and gluing is gilding the lilly. More important is the alignment of the receiver to stock Tim.
 
Dr. Tim has tried everything. If you don't believe it just ask him. Even if he hasn't he will have an opinion on it. :D:D
 
Boyd,

When I bought my RFD used it was glued and screwed and shot great with a new barrel. Next barrel shot great also but suddenly dropped off and became erratic. A little investigation revealed that the glue-in was coming loose and tightening the screws didn't fix it. Breaking it completely loose and shooting it as a screwed in only did fix it and that is how I've been shooting it ever since and it still shoots great with several barrels. This rifle has always had a Remington style lug.

FWIW

Greg
 
I have in the last few years become a big believer in pillar bedded rifles, but yes a recoil lug is necessary with this type bedding job.
It depends upon what action you are using whether a pillar bed needs a recoil lug or not. Most of the custom actions such as a Panda or Bat have enough surface area to use the tang for the recoil lug. If you don't need to sandwich a recoil lug between the barrel shoulder and action face, you are better off not using a recoil lug if the action will take care of it with the tang. A Remington or Remington clone has to have a recoil lug as there's no surface area to use the tang for a lug.
 
It depends upon what action you are using whether a pillar bed needs a recoil lug or not. Most of the custom actions such as a Panda or Bat have enough surface area to use the tang for the recoil lug. If you don't need to sandwich a recoil lug between the barrel shoulder and action face, you are better off not using a recoil lug if the action will take care of it with the tang. A Remington or Remington clone has to have a recoil lug as there's no surface area to use the tang for a lug.

Mike
My Bats have the recoil lug on the bottom of the action and it has nothing to do with the barrel attachment.

Dick
 
Mike
My Bats have the recoil lug on the bottom of the action and it has nothing to do with the barrel attachment.

Dick
Whether the lug is attached to the bottom of the action just depends upon the model of Bat. Some of them have a lug screwed to the bottom of the action, some don't. I've built quite a few rifles using Bat SV and S actions that were pillar bedded into the stock and used only the tang surface for the recoil lug. Most of the Bat model B's that I've seen and larger Bats have the lug bolted to the bottom of the receiver.
 
Glue job

I have Wichita action on a Mcmillan Br stock that came as an unlimited 6ppc with a 21" straight taper barrel the same diameter as the action glued in. It is going to be my F-class/long range benchrest gun with a 31" broughton 1/8 6mmbr. I plan on glueing it back in when I get it back from the gunsmith, but Im wondering if it will be ok as a glue in with the extra 10" of barrel hanging off of it.
 
I pillar bed most of my f-class guns. However, you shouldn't have a problem with gluing it back in even with the longer barrel. You aren't adding that much weight over what you would have had with the shorter barrel. I've seen short range benchrest rifles with 1.350 barrels set up with glued in action. If a glued in action will hold up a barrel that heavy even if they are shorter, your's shouldn't be a problem. I'd go ahead glue it in and not worry about it.
 
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