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Big Shurl

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Do I have to use bullet lube when reloading centerfire bullets. Will case lube work? If not do I have stuff around the house to use, crisco, candle wax probably my wife's yankee candles I don't think we have others. Motor oil, bacon grease, anything else. Any help would be a big help guys as I'm not sure I'm even supposed to lube the bullets.
 
NO. I would suggest you get a reloading manual and read it cover to cover and then find someone to show you how to load.
 
Bullet lube is used to lube cast lead bullets, it is not used to load jacketed bullets in a rifle or pistol case.
Get a loading manual and read it, it won't be as good as an experienced reloading teacher but it will help you a lot.
 
Big

Some of the answers might appear to be rather short and rude at first glance, but please keep in mind, reloading ammunition is a procedure that has to be done in a very specific way, using components that must me matched according to many perameters set forth by various manufacturers, engineers, and other ballistic professionals.

You seem to be a novice at this, so the best advice that could be given is exactly what you have been given. Astute Handloaders, (we prefer that term), understand the dangers involved anytime you are dealing with things that have the potential to do great bodilly harm if not used properly.

Since there is an entire industry built around the reloading of ammunition, the various manufacturers have made the entire endevour as "painless" as possible. But, every one will, to the letter, caution you that it does require that you think, follow directions, and use good common sense.......jackie
 
jackie schmidt said:
Some of the answers might appear to be rather short and rude at first glance


You seem to be a novice at this,
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Jackie I'm green as a Lima bean. This is my first time reloading and I'm trying to get 99 rounds done as we speak. I'm sizing , neck sizing, corn cob vibrating, reaming primer pockets. case trimming, chamfering, powder trickling, lubing, reading, sweating etc etc eyc...... All the while running down stairs to check and see if anyone answered my questions. Thanks guys so much I really do appreciate it. I've got a 300 yard match on SAT. I told my wife if she heres an explosion call 911 then run upstairs to check on me:eek:
 
Jeez Louise I just full length sized, neck sized, cleaned and cut the primer pockets, case trimmed and chamfered, and 45 minutes of corn cob vibrating. It's taken me a solid four hours for 99 cases. Is that normal or do I suck? Tomorrow prime cases, weigh powder, and seat bullets. This has been a lot of work and lubing. I'm whopped.
 
Seems to always take a lot of time if you are trimming by hand. What caliber are you loading? Be careful seating the primers (wear safety glasses) and make sure your powder charge is right. Good luck. Richard
 
that is an awful lot of juice for a 300 yard match. You are going to feel that in the morning.
 
German Salazar said:
Big Shurl, don't worry about the time, with some practice it'll go faster; also, some of the things you're doing are one-time operations (flash hole, primer pocket).


NRA has a nice reloading book for about $6 that's worthwhile, the Sierra manual is very worthwhile.
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One aside here, uniforming the primer pockets is a one time operation but you will need to do practically the same thing with the same tool to get the carbon out of the primer pocket after firing. Otherwise the next primers may not seat consistently, or after firing 2-3 times the primers may not seat deep enough.

BTW, where did you get your loading data to start since you don't seem to know about bullet lube?

Reloading is fun to most, to some it is a pain, but if done safely and correctly it is rewarding. Enjoy.
 
Good Reading

Big Shurl,

Try and get a copy of PRECISION SHOOTING - Reloading Guide, by Dave Brenman. Use this along with a reloading manual such as the one by Sierra Bullets.

Best Wishes
 
Don't use lube, even case lube, in the necks............

it will combine w/the carbon left in the neck(when you're in a hurry and don't brush the inside) and form a dandy GLUE :eek:(sitting, say, from one season to the next) which will give you differing release pressures, which will give you groups the Mormon choir could fly through. HTH ;)
 
now i apologize for my stupid question
what does this statement mean?

' Most seating dies have a crimp feature which is to be avoided! "

I assume you are talking about benchrest type shooting, bolt action etc?
This would not be a 'feature' that you would avoid for some of my tubular mag, heavy recoil w/standard mag etc.

I am always willing to learn...
thx
 
Crimp

Therer are times when a crimp is a desireable thing, in fact, a nessessity.

For instance. If you are shooting a large magnum Rifle such as a 338 Mag, with quite a few pounds of recoil, with rounds in the magazine, the bullets probably will move outward upon recoil if they are not crimped. It's the old inertia thing.

Crimping is nothing more than a positive stop, as opposed to the single interference fit without the crimp.

Most bullets designed for hunting feature a canlular ring that is there to recieve the crimp that the die will form when set to do so. Bullets that do not have this ring, (bullets designed for pure accuracy work do not), should NEVER be crimped.........jackie
 
Throw those cases in Isso brass cleaner in a cheapo ultrasonic for a few minutes, then rinse in clean water in the ultrasonic for 15 minutes and you'll never have carbon, lube or anything anywhere. Just be careful to not leave it in too long, it'll stain the brass.

Oh, and don't do it on a fancy Corian counter top. The brass cleaner stains it and you have to work vigorously to remove the stain lest the wife visit her wrath upon thee.

Greg J.
 
SGJennings said:
Oh, and don't do it on a fancy Corian counter top. The brass cleaner stains it and you have to work vigorously to remove the stain lest the wife visit her wrath upon thee.

Greg J.
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OUCHH!!!

That description has a sincerely BTDT feel to it..... :eek:

al
 
German Salazar said:
Big Shurl, don't worry about the time, with some practice it'll go faster; also, some of the things you're doing are one-time operations (flash hole, primer pocket).

When you prime the cases make sure that you feel the primer bottom in the pocket but don't crush them. Make sure that the edge radius doesn't get flattened out. Run a finger over each and every rimer you seat, it should be just below the case head, never above. It's a delicate balance of enough pressure to seat it to the bottom and below the case head without crushing it.

When you're done with that, go just as slow and easy on weighing your powder charges. You've got a couple of hours ahead of you but it'll be worth it. Don't be too bold on that powder charge either, keep it conservative and enjoy your first day of shooting YOUR ammo.

NRA has a nice reloading book for about $6 that's worthwhile, the Sierra manual is very worthwhile.
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Mr Salazar I can't thank you enough for your help. The post above really has given me some more confidence that tonight I'll be able to prime successfully. Tonight's project about to start in 30 minutes. Prime ( CCI bench rest BR-2 ), Weigh and dispense powder ( H4831SC ), and seat bullets ( Lapua 139grain HPBT Scenar ). I'm looking forward to it. Hopefully they'll be a little consistent Saturday. Thanks again.

Originally Posted byJerrySharret

BTW, where did you get your loading data to start since you don't seem to know about bullet lube?
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The fellow who sold me the rifle, a Savage F-Class gave me the formula that was the most accurate he'd found so far. His formula is within a grain of one of the 6.5/284 loads on the Hodgon website.

Originally Posted by blades

that is an awful lot of juice for a 300 yard match. You are going to feel that in the morning.
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I'm shooten what I've got. Thanks though I think you've guaranteed me a flinch on my first shot on this gun:) just kidding. Sat is 300 yards and I'm going to try and make it to a shoot a 600 yard match in Rutherfordton here in about a week or so I think.
 
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