Carbide mandrel HBN coating, ok?

Z

zini72

Guest
I just recieved some HBN and was thinking of "other" ways to use it.
I have a 7mm RSAUMLN wildcat that requires me to remove quite a bit of neck material.
I have not had very good results from neck turning (+/- .001").
I have noticed that when I got in a hurry (to get to a match) i gaulded the necks and had to remove brass from the turning mandrel.
I ordered a carbide turning mandrel and was wondering if I plated the mandrel with HBN if it would be ok?
does anyone know if it is ok to HBN carbide?
Thanks,
Edward
 
I don't have an answer in regards to carbide but the nitrited mandrels sold by 21st Shooting are the cats meow.
 
I think you'll have a hard time galling the brass using a carbide mandrel. Just slow down and make sure the mandrel and brass are lubed.
 
I have a carbide one. The maker said you still have to use lube on it.
I also use the mobileone and stp but I dont have any problems getting it off of the cases.
I simply put them in a jar of lacquer thinner and shake let them sit 5 min or so shake again drain and rinse in denatured alcohol which dries really quick and they are ready to go.

I also use it as a bolt lube works great and stays on the whole yardage.
 
Last edited:
IMO at the core of the problems that many have with brass transfer and heating is the fit of the case neck on the turning mandrel. If you do a couple of thing right, the fit does not have to be wring on (slight interference) to get the best results. First thing...you don't want to hold the case or tool rigidly. Necks are seldom perfectly aligned the rest of the case. If you hold the case and/or tool rigidly it puts things in a bind that can result in variations in neck thickness. The other thing that you want to do is to have the cutter working all the time it is on the neck, so that the neck is forcibly pinned to the mandrel the whole time. This is done by proceeding to the shoulder end of the cut rapidldly, intentionally leaving a cut that is far from clean. Then, on the trip back to the mouth of the case, the rate of feed is very slow, making a perfect finish as you go. When you get to the end, you are done. Don't go back. You don't need to, and if you do, you risk making the neck thickness uneven. Using this method you can use an expander that is slightly larger than the norm, for a fit that produces hardly any friction (with a good lube) and no metal transfer, with a carbide mandrel. Shooters get all excited about turners, but all they really do is hold the cutter a precise distance from the mandrel. IMO the most important feature of any of them, the deal breaker, is the availability of carbide mandrels for the make or model that you are considering. No carbide...no buy. The other area to consider is how hard a tool is to adjust. To me this is no big deal. I have a collection of once fired brass that I use to do all but the final adjustment tweak. After all, what does it matter if I do my setting using an expanded .220 Russian case, or n expanded, free .222 or .223 case that was left at the range by someone who does not reload? Some time back, I let Dan Kineman talk me into trying some of his case neck turning lube. I was a little miffed at he small quantity VS the price. I was wrong. The thin red oil works very well, and is no trick to remove. It takes so little,that that little plastic bottle is literally a lifetime supply. Given that he is no longer in business, I think that I would look at some of the two stroke oils for something to try. Perhaps a synthetic with additives. Luckily, I don't have to worry about what will work. I have it.:)
 
David,
Part of my definition of working great is being able to get it off without resorting to a nuclear strike.
Boyd
 
Edward

You've got me to thinking. I could WS2 a mandral and see what happens... I've come to think there is not enough difference in the diameter of my expanding and turning mandrels.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top