Brass sticking in chamber?

N

nonliberal

Guest
Hello, I have a new 30BR built on a Viper action and I'm having a problem. I have only fired 5 shots with it and even with a very light load the brass is very hard to extract after the shot is fired. I'm not getting a bolt click, but I have to smack the bolt rearward with the palm of my hand to get the brass to release from the chamber. It's a .330 neck and the loaded rounds measure .327, and I'm using a Harrels 2.5 FL die.

Any idea what could be causing this?
 
A couple of things to check

1. How much primary extraction does it have?
2. Measure a virgin case, a fired case and a sized case @ .200 ahead of the extractor groove.

If these check out fine, remove the extractor, fire a case and gently put a cleaning rod (no jag) down the muzzle and into the case so it rests on the floor of the case......see how much it takes to get the case to move back in the chamber.

Good shootin'. -Al
 
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@ .200 ahead of the grove a virgin case is .465.
a sized case is .466
a fired case is .466.

Even the virgin brass stick when fired.

Primary extraction looks to be approx .100.
 
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I just put in a virgin case without a bullet and it gave resistance closing the bolt, then it was stuck in the chamber as well without needing to be fired. It marked the brass in the middle of the body.
 
Kevin- I will be at the range (60 bench) tomorrow (Sunday) from11:30 to 3 PM. If you can make it at that time I will look at your problem.

Wayne
 
brcman said:
Kevin- I will be at the range (60 bench) tomorrow (Sunday) from11:30 to 3 PM. If you can make it at that time I will look at your problem.

Wayne
Click to expand...

Thanks Wayne! I will be there.
 
alinwa said:
The die used to cut your chamber is too small.

opinionby


al
Click to expand...

Well that's what I was thinking, but the reamer is owned by a very well known shooter and gunsmith that has done a bunch with this reamer. Of course the obvious answer will be to call him. If I can't figure it out by Tuesday, that's what I will do.
 
Sounds like you've checked the obvious things. That the reamer is a known good one makes this a bit of a puzzle....sounds like you'll have some hands-on help with it today.

Let us know what you find, okay? -Al
 
It Happened to me one time. I was told it was caused by excessive tool marks in Chamber. But what do I know. It was a quick fix.




Glenn
 
"Primary Extraction" is noticed at the very top of the bolt stroke.... something, often an angled surface at the top or "root" of the bolt handle, engages something else , often an angled surface, and cams the bolt back a few thou. It's a short, strong camming action designed to break a frozen cartridge loose from the chamber walls. You measure it using feeler gages or a dial indicator.

As far as a reamer working for years and then cutting small....... Many chambers are cut larger than the reamer for a variety of reasons. I once rented a reamer and the gunsmith who applied it cut a very small, very tight chamber because he used it differently than the owner. My chamber was useless.

al
 
Things changed a little bit in this. I did what Al Nyhus said to do here>>>If these check out fine, remove the extractor, fire a case and gently put a cleaning rod (no jag) down the muzzle and into the case so it rests on the floor of the case......see how much it takes to get the case to move back in the chamber.
When i did that there was zero resistance on the cleaning rod, the brass probably would have fallen out if I lifted then gun vertical.
That tells me the chamber is fine and it almost has to be something with the boltface or extractor.

On my way to the range yesterday I noticed the gunsmith that did the chamber work on the rifle was in his shop, so I dropped it off with him to save me a trip later.
 
Sounds extractor-ish. ;) If your bolt is a 'universal' PPC/BR bolt face, the extractor may need some tweaking or replacement. My most recent custom action had this exact problem and a different extractor was all it needed.

Also, have the 'smith double check that the extractor isn't hanging up on the back of the barrel. A bit of DyKem on the barrel cone will show if there's any contact.

Good shootin'. -Al
 
Al Nyhus said:
Sounds extractor-ish. ;) If your bolt is a 'universal' PPC/BR bolt face, the extractor may need some tweaking or replacement. My most recent custom action had this exact problem and a different extractor was all it needed.

Also, have the 'smith double check that the extractor isn't hanging up on the back of the barrel. A bit of DyKem on the barrel cone will show if there's any contact.

Good shootin'. -Al
Click to expand...

It is a universal bolt face. Dykem is exactly what he said he was going to use on it to see whats going on.
 
If the extractor is contacting the coned area of bolt, you will often hear a slight 'click' when you open the bolt. I've seen a couple of sliding plate extractors that protruded from the front of the bolt lugs several thou....the cut in the bolt was fine but the extractor was a bit 'fat', if you will. If it's set up with real tight bolt nose-to-barrel clearance (like .005), you can run into this.

Looking forward to hearing what you find. -Al
 
My fix

nonliberal said:
Hello, I have a new 30BR built on a Viper action and I'm having a problem. I have only fired 5 shots with it and even with a very light load the brass is very hard to extract after the shot is fired. I'm not getting a bolt click, but I have to smack the bolt rearward with the palm of my hand to get the brass to release from the chamber. It's a .330 neck and the loaded rounds measure .327, and I'm using a Harrels 2.5 FL die.

Any idea what could be causing this?
Click to expand...

I had the same problem in a Cobra. It was the hard chrome bolt finish.
Lapped lugs, bolt face and primary extraction cam area's.
I have the drop port and 6 ppc mid level loads opened hard. After lapping and nothing else I went to top end and no problems.
BV
 
Please note that the act of lapping bolt lugs and primary extraction cam actually LESSENS the camming effect. On some setups, notably "reworked 700s," I've seen lapping nearly eliminate the cam effect.

Now, in the case of Brian's Cobra it's got enough surface and is well enough timed that this isn't an issue, I'm adding it NOT in reply to Brian, but for general interest.
al
 
Turns out the bolt face was just a hair too tight on the BR case causing the brass to bind. The bolt was opened up a little bit (barely noticeable) and now it functions smooth as silk. Life is good once again!
 
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