brass holder for neck turning

PUMPKIN, THE LEE CHUCK, AND SINCLAIRS LITTLE CHUCKS

hmmmm maybe not the pumpkin do it the other ways around

mike in co
 
I use the K&M, it's the only one I've used. It has a hex shank, good for a screwdriver, OK for drill, maybe less than ideal for a lathe?

The K&M uses the Lee shellholders used in a lot of primer seaters, and tightens up on the case bottom, esp. on the rim of the primer pocket.

Occasionally, you're going to get a tight fit on the turning tool mandrel, and (likely) spin the case in whatever holder you use.

If you don't spin it too much, the K&M is fine. I have no idea how firmly the Lee universal chuck Al referenced holds the case. And it *looks* like if the case did spin in that holder, no damage would be done.
 
Tried the Lee Zip Trim Case Trimmer Universal 3 Jaw Chuck Case Holder http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/352653/lee-zip-trim-case-trimmer-universal-3-jaw-chuck-case-holder It tore up cases with it's horizontal Piranha like jaws.

The K&M Shell Holder http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/neck-turner-tools/power-adapter-with-shell-holder.html offered a good firm vertical hold all across the bottom of the case without damaging it. Ken Markle suggested I use no more than 180 rpms when turning my brass.

Once tried the Sinclair Caseholder and Driver http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...sinclair-driver-caseholder-set-prod45124.aspx but found the driver portion to be convex in shape which applied only a small amount of force mainly centered on the primer pocket which of course reduced friction and resulted in too many spinning cases. Sent it back.
 
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I have several and now use the simple Lee holders. I have always had trouble with all the holders I have used slipping. All the holders I have used have not had a good and easy way to enable one to tighten them enough to hold well. Earlier this year something pulled the chain on the light bulb and I wondered if I milled flats on both the case holder and base I could use two open end wrenches to tighten them to whatever was necessary. I did this and it works the very best, regardless of how much stock one wishes to remove in one pass.
 
To see the advantage that the 21st Century Shooting holder has, you almost have to have it in your hand. It has a rubber ring that is pressed against the case head as it is tightened. This gives a lot more traction on the case head than can be had by hand alone, using a holder that does not have this feature. Before I had one, all of my experience had been with the K&M to which I have affixed an Allen wrench in the hole provided for it for additional leverage, with tape. Since my hands are well away from the holder when it is under power, and the hand that I tighten with is the same one that I run the cordless drill with, this has not been a problem. As far as I know, the 21st Century holder is the only one that does not depend on metal to metal contact to secure the case from rotating in the holder under power.
 
Boyd Allen said:
To see the advantage that the 21st Century Shooting holder has, you almost have to have it in your hand. It has a rubber ring that is pressed against the case head as it is tightened. This gives a lot more traction on the case head than can be had by hand alone, using a holder that does not have this feature. Before I had one, all of my experience had been with the K&M to which I have affixed an Allen wrench in the hole provided for it for additional leverage, with tape. Since my hands are well away from the holder when it is under power, and the hand that I tighten with is the same one that I run the cordless drill with, this has not been a problem. As far as I know, the 21st Century holder is the only one that does not depend on metal to metal contact to secure the case from rotating in the holder under power.
Click to expand...

I lied, this one I don't have, does this one center nicely and spin true?

tx

al
 
The back end of the Forster Trimmer w/ the proper collet is very good but your chuck must have a capacity of more than 1/2" or you can turn the shank down to 1/2" and you have to remove the T-handle, drill and tap a hole in the collet housing for a rod to close the housing to close the collet on the case, I use a 1/4x20 hole w/ a 3" rod w/ ball handle that works fine, if you start the case w/o power on the lubed mandrel first then tighten the collet on case it lines up very true and the case never slips, at least I never had one that did.
 
Al,
Yes.

I should explain. I use a cordless drill, that is supported in a manner that allows things to float quite a bit, and the turning tool is lightly held in a similar fashion. I think that doing it this way gives better results, given that necks are not perfectly in line with the rest of the case. Who was it that said that if you cannot achieve perfect alignment, it is better to let things float a little? Even though I would like to get a lathe I am pretty sure that I would use it to turn cases, and my drill press does not go slow enough. I only turn a small number of cases for my PPCs so I don't need to engineer a setup that is suitable for more volume, If i did, I would be looking for a cheap way to reduce the speed of my drill press. perhaps surplus, right angle reduction gearbox.
 
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I use a mini lathe ( a GE Mina-gear 152 rpm fan cooled motor with a 3 jawed self centering chuck that holds my brass very straight usually with no visible wobble. The motor was wired with a capacitor and a reversing on-off switch. With 2 or 3 neck turners set up to cut about .001 at a time and inside and outside chamfer tools, cases can be NT and prepped in about one minute each. Motor cost was $20 and chuck was $70. An adaptor to connect chuck to motor shaft is required. Some aluminum angle iron and a mounting base complete the setup. Chucking a primer pocket uniformer makes this job much easier.
 
Johan--I use an old small metal lathe (1940s) @ 174 rpms and indicate the mandrel (headstock) in and align a headspace gauge in the collet which sets in another 4-jaw chuck which mounts in the tailstock (unusual set-up but works), I mounted an aluminum plate on the tailstock ram which pushes against a dial indicator which it engages as soon as the cutter makes contact w/ the case mouth, I then feed the case 5 to 10 thousandths and stop and let the cutter cut, then advance the case another 5 to 10 thousandths until the indicator zeros out at same location just into the shoulder each time. The slow feed makes a nice finish, wall thickness is very consistent, and no overheating.
 
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