H
hailey
Guest
Bought a new gun with two barrels and I was just wondering how do I get the old one off.I would like to do this myself so I'll never need a gun smith to change one out unless it's new.
Dusty Stevens
Hollow Point Dispenser
you need some tools!
what kind of gun is it? a bench gun will need a barrel vise and action wrench. factory bolt ins will need a few more pieces.
what kind of gun is it? a bench gun will need a barrel vise and action wrench. factory bolt ins will need a few more pieces.
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hailey
Guest
It's a bat action 3 lug.Were do I get these tools....
Rear entry action wrench and barrel vise...............Don
http://www.brunoshooters.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BSS&Product_Code=BAT27
V
Victor N TN
Guest
Several places carry the right tools...
Several places carry the right tools... You might want to check in at Sinclair's just to compare what they have. http://www.sinclairintl.com/shooting.html
Take care,
Victor
Several places carry the right tools... You might want to check in at Sinclair's just to compare what they have. http://www.sinclairintl.com/shooting.html
Take care,
Victor
H
hailey
Guest
After I get the tools how do I get the old one off.And should the other barrel just go right on?? Is it as easy as righty tighty-lefty loosy or do I need a go/nogo guage.The two barrels were bought with the gun new,both are for this action.
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BJS6
Guest
Hailey,
I have just got set up for changing barrels, got a couple of Kreigers and tools from Kelbly's for my Panda.
You just clamp the barrel up in the barrel vice with the vice bolted or clamped to the bench. Tighten the nuts up good and snug so the barrel is clamped good and hard, you don't want it slipping. I found that the alumium vice straight onto the barrel done up nice and tight was the best bet, no slippage and no barrel marking.
At this stage the barrel is locked up in the vice with the whole rifle hanging off the barrel out in the breeze, scope up in the normal position. Put the rear entry action wrench into the action all the way forward so the lugs are right up in the proper area of the action. Put the wrench or bar or whatever your tool comes with and turn the tool anticlockwise to unscrew the action off the barrel. Break it free and then loosen the barrel vice, remove the rifle and wind the barrel off. Easier than winding the rifle off the still clamped barrel.
Before undoing the old barrel I placed a mark on the barrel and action in line with each other using a marker pen. Once the barrel is free I wound it back up against the action face lightly so I could assess how far it had turned on undoing it and thus how far to tighten the barrel when installing the new one.
As a point of refernce for tightness, the Kelbly tool comes with a 20 inch long T handle and removing the old barrel took a good heave to break free !! I have heard that Kelbly's reckon many accuracy issues are casued by barrels that are not tight enough. I installed the new Kreiger to a similar tension to the one Kelbly's had fitted. When I shot it a three shot test group with the best load on the morning went 0.045 and a 5 shot group to confirm the load went 0.095 !! No problem with the barrel fitting that I can see !!
No need for headspace gauges or any of that stuff, just unscrew the old one and wind in a new one. Put a good smear of high pressure grease on the threads and on the area that butts up against that action face, that will avoid galling the surfaces.
Hope that is some help.
Bryce
I have just got set up for changing barrels, got a couple of Kreigers and tools from Kelbly's for my Panda.
You just clamp the barrel up in the barrel vice with the vice bolted or clamped to the bench. Tighten the nuts up good and snug so the barrel is clamped good and hard, you don't want it slipping. I found that the alumium vice straight onto the barrel done up nice and tight was the best bet, no slippage and no barrel marking.
At this stage the barrel is locked up in the vice with the whole rifle hanging off the barrel out in the breeze, scope up in the normal position. Put the rear entry action wrench into the action all the way forward so the lugs are right up in the proper area of the action. Put the wrench or bar or whatever your tool comes with and turn the tool anticlockwise to unscrew the action off the barrel. Break it free and then loosen the barrel vice, remove the rifle and wind the barrel off. Easier than winding the rifle off the still clamped barrel.
Before undoing the old barrel I placed a mark on the barrel and action in line with each other using a marker pen. Once the barrel is free I wound it back up against the action face lightly so I could assess how far it had turned on undoing it and thus how far to tighten the barrel when installing the new one.
As a point of refernce for tightness, the Kelbly tool comes with a 20 inch long T handle and removing the old barrel took a good heave to break free !! I have heard that Kelbly's reckon many accuracy issues are casued by barrels that are not tight enough. I installed the new Kreiger to a similar tension to the one Kelbly's had fitted. When I shot it a three shot test group with the best load on the morning went 0.045 and a 5 shot group to confirm the load went 0.095 !! No problem with the barrel fitting that I can see !!
No need for headspace gauges or any of that stuff, just unscrew the old one and wind in a new one. Put a good smear of high pressure grease on the threads and on the area that butts up against that action face, that will avoid galling the surfaces.
Hope that is some help.
Bryce
Last edited by a moderator:
To this...
To the above excellent advise I would only add it is a good idea to remove the scope off of the rifle before the barrel removal. Scopes are designed to withstand recoil, not side jerks that may occur during barrel removal. Just a suggestion....
To the above excellent advise I would only add it is a good idea to remove the scope off of the rifle before the barrel removal. Scopes are designed to withstand recoil, not side jerks that may occur during barrel removal. Just a suggestion....
R
RayfromTX
Guest
Do others agree with this suggestion to remove the scope first?
B
BJS6
Guest
I loaded up on the T handle and with enough grunt so the action broke loose. When doing the new barrel up I would it up against the action hand tight, pulled up a little more tension with the T wrench and then smoothly wound on the handle until I had advanced the threads another 0.100ish.
There was no need for any banging and clattering and knocking stuff around, can't see that there was anything to protect the scope from to be honest.
If you took a running leap at the wrench and jarred sh..t all over the place maybe but if you did that I think I'd leave the barrel fitting to somebody with a little more mechanical sympathy !!
Just my take on it, but I have only changed one barrel one time. Still I fail to see how you could hurt a scope unless you slipped with the wrench and put it down the ocular lense instead of the action !!
Bryce
There was no need for any banging and clattering and knocking stuff around, can't see that there was anything to protect the scope from to be honest.
If you took a running leap at the wrench and jarred sh..t all over the place maybe but if you did that I think I'd leave the barrel fitting to somebody with a little more mechanical sympathy !!
Just my take on it, but I have only changed one barrel one time. Still I fail to see how you could hurt a scope unless you slipped with the wrench and put it down the ocular lense instead of the action !!
Bryce
RL Weikart
Member
Scope
Definitely take the scope off. If recoil has the possibility of moving the inner working parts of a scope, think what the effect might be when the barrel breaks loose from the action. My $.02
Definitely take the scope off. If recoil has the possibility of moving the inner working parts of a scope, think what the effect might be when the barrel breaks loose from the action. My $.02
Boyd Allen
Active member
With a rear entry T handle setup I find no reason at all to take off the scope. There is no banging or slipping. The wrench is the one that Kelblys sells, and the action a glued in Viper. I do tighten the barrel, slightly loosen it and then retighten it when installing.
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BJS6
Guest
The Kelbly T wrench is a very nice tool isn't it. I was very impressed with how well it fitted the action and how easy it made the whole job.
C
chino69
Guest
Kelby T wrench
I agree, the Kebly wrench is a nice robust piece of equipment. The T handle gives you enough torque to do the job.
Chino69
I agree, the Kebly wrench is a nice robust piece of equipment. The T handle gives you enough torque to do the job.
Chino69
Tim Oltersdorf
Active member
switching barrels
I use a side port action wrench and sometimes a cheater pipe is necessary to break it loose. You might try wrapping a regular piece of paper around your barrel only once before clamping it in the barrel vice. If you do this it will keep the barrel from being marred by the vice. You will need to clamp the vice down real tight as the paper does make it easier to slip. With bench guns you usually don't need to mark them with a felt pen to get them to head space correctly. They should do so automatically when you tighten the barrel up. Be sure to have the threads clean and well lubricated especially if the action is stainless or you may gall the barrel onto the action. That is a mess and requires a machining job to get it off. I don't remove my scope when switching barrels. Just don't hammer on the action wrench or tighten it with a snap. If the action wrench won't remove the barrel get a cheater pipe and try it. Good luck. Tim
I use a side port action wrench and sometimes a cheater pipe is necessary to break it loose. You might try wrapping a regular piece of paper around your barrel only once before clamping it in the barrel vice. If you do this it will keep the barrel from being marred by the vice. You will need to clamp the vice down real tight as the paper does make it easier to slip. With bench guns you usually don't need to mark them with a felt pen to get them to head space correctly. They should do so automatically when you tighten the barrel up. Be sure to have the threads clean and well lubricated especially if the action is stainless or you may gall the barrel onto the action. That is a mess and requires a machining job to get it off. I don't remove my scope when switching barrels. Just don't hammer on the action wrench or tighten it with a snap. If the action wrench won't remove the barrel get a cheater pipe and try it. Good luck. Tim