I haven't had any factory Remington barrels I cared about salvaging for a long while and I gave up trying to get them off with my barrel vise and press. I just relieve the shoulder. I haven't had any that had any kind thread locker on them. Once the shoulder is relieved they just spin off by hand
J
jlmurphy
Guest
+1 for chris k, I also use 3" square tubing to make cast lead blocks to hold tapered barrels. I cast the blocks around the first barrel of that taper, after many different profiles, it is easy to find a close fit for most barrels. A little rosin in the casting sometimes helps.
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NesikaChad
Guest
Haven't met an action yet that's resisted the power of a good hot air gun and a bottle of Kroil.
Heat it till it's smoking white smoke and then give it hell.
It's always worked unless the threads are galled and then your screwed and have to use the lathe to fix it anyway.
Heat it till it's smoking white smoke and then give it hell.
It's always worked unless the threads are galled and then your screwed and have to use the lathe to fix it anyway.
P
papapaul
Guest
A
Alaninga
Guest
torqueing an action.....
I've considered drilling/tapping a second 1" steel rod [or old barrel] into the cap top of my action wrench. Then I can apply a more even torque to the action when trying to break it loose using both handles making it in effect, a really big 'T' handle wrench.
It's possible that there is not enough steel in the cap but if it could be done then two guys, or one really long armed guy [
] could apply even pressure or close to it, to the action.
Hitting the one solid steel bar of an action wrench works pretty good and applys less action warping torque than a cheater bar and 'slow leverage',,,wouldn't it??
I usually try everything the 'wrong way' first just to make sure it's the 'wrong way'........
I've considered drilling/tapping a second 1" steel rod [or old barrel] into the cap top of my action wrench. Then I can apply a more even torque to the action when trying to break it loose using both handles making it in effect, a really big 'T' handle wrench.
It's possible that there is not enough steel in the cap but if it could be done then two guys, or one really long armed guy [
] could apply even pressure or close to it, to the action.Hitting the one solid steel bar of an action wrench works pretty good and applys less action warping torque than a cheater bar and 'slow leverage',,,wouldn't it??
I usually try everything the 'wrong way' first just to make sure it's the 'wrong way'........
W
WhelenMan
Guest
First let me say I'm a newcomer to the barrel removal business. I just changed out my first with good success. I've got one of the Wheeler Engineering Remington 700 action wrenches. What I noticed is that if the wrench is tightened very much to grip the action well that it impinges on the threads underneath and causes the barrel to be much harder to unscrew. I would think it was intended to tighten the wrench over the action and not put most of the pressure against the receiver bolt hole. Am I messing up somehow or what's the problem? Or would I just be better off going with an internal wrench?
I use both of Brownell's fixtures, the barrel vise with aluminum bushings (and rosin), and the action wrench. For removal, I've NEVER had a problem with Remington receivers. What I do is mount the works so the handle to the action wrench is pointed up and take a piece of 1 1/4" square brass barstock (it's what I had laying around and works VERY well) about 2 1/2 feet long. Wind up and hit it a good fast stroke. Using a heavy slow impact from a mallet is nowhere near as effective as a higher speed impact from that brass bar. It knocks them loose with one strike. I did have to swat a Howa twice, and there was an old Mauser a friend brought that was very difficult, but even that one started to loosen after the 2nd or was it the 3rd strike. That was a barrel put on by Ackley himself...I don't know how he torqued in on as hard as he did, but it was so substantial the shoulder of the barrel was flared out on the action face.
Fast sharp blows will break them loose and be warned, if the barrel is NOT one of the 'tight' ones, be ready to stop that wrench handle as it will spin a good 3-4 turns after the first blow. I haven't had any spin themselves off yet, but there was one or two that were close.
Fast sharp blows will break them loose and be warned, if the barrel is NOT one of the 'tight' ones, be ready to stop that wrench handle as it will spin a good 3-4 turns after the first blow. I haven't had any spin themselves off yet, but there was one or two that were close.
A
Alaninga
Guest
hitting the wrench handle......
hitting the wrench handle......wrench handle up......SO...now we can discuss whether or not we're baseball fans or wood splitters. I've been mounting the handle horzontal so a downward [wood splitting/rail spike hitting attitude] swing is performed. Since I do like baseball, might be fun to try your 'handle up' stance? How about a brass rod fitted to an old baseball bat [wood or aluminum bat?] handle?
When it come to taking the situation far past it's origional intent, I'm here to help........
By the way, I've used a 3' piece of 4x4 wood post for this, but I'm thinking your brass bar usage is a good idea. Even P.O. Ackley used to say that a HIT from a 2 lb hammer would loosen barrels that cheater bars no matter how long, would/could not loosen before damaging something.
I put some KROIL onto/into the threads from both sides a few days before [if I think about it that soon] just incase. Seems to help loosen the dried whale snot that is present in some barrel thread joints. Wonder what all 'stuff' factorys do put in those threads????
hitting the wrench handle......wrench handle up......SO...now we can discuss whether or not we're baseball fans or wood splitters. I've been mounting the handle horzontal so a downward [wood splitting/rail spike hitting attitude] swing is performed. Since I do like baseball, might be fun to try your 'handle up' stance? How about a brass rod fitted to an old baseball bat [wood or aluminum bat?
] handle?When it come to taking the situation far past it's origional intent, I'm here to help........
By the way, I've used a 3' piece of 4x4 wood post for this, but I'm thinking your brass bar usage is a good idea. Even P.O. Ackley used to say that a HIT from a 2 lb hammer would loosen barrels that cheater bars no matter how long, would/could not loosen before damaging something.
I put some KROIL onto/into the threads from both sides a few days before [if I think about it that soon] just incase. Seems to help loosen the dried whale snot that is present in some barrel thread joints. Wonder what all 'stuff' factorys do put in those threads????
I suppose if your a left hand swinger you'll be at a disadvantage with that method, you might have to use the wood-splittin' method Oh, and that brownell's action wrench is certainly sturdy enough to hold up to that abuse.
I work in an armament shop for the military, and EVERY time we get someone new in we have to buy a buttload of new punches...they just don't realize that little 4oz brass hammer works better for drifting out stubborn pins than an 8-12oz ballpeen....it just takes a good swift rap, and you don't bend or break your punch.
On that cheater bar, try busting loose an M2 barrel support off a 50 yr old reciever. We've had TWO tanker bars in the vent holes with 200lb guys hangin on the ends trying to loosen them. Usually if it goes that far, a good swat on the bar with a hammer will bust it loose with no sweat (with the two burlies hangin on the ends).
Oh, and that brownell's action wrench is certainly sturdy enough to hold up to that abuse.I work in an armament shop for the military, and EVERY time we get someone new in we have to buy a buttload of new punches...they just don't realize that little 4oz brass hammer works better for drifting out stubborn pins than an 8-12oz ballpeen....it just takes a good swift rap, and you don't bend or break your punch.
On that cheater bar, try busting loose an M2 barrel support off a 50 yr old reciever. We've had TWO tanker bars in the vent holes with 200lb guys hangin on the ends trying to loosen them. Usually if it goes that far, a good swat on the bar with a hammer will bust it loose with no sweat (with the two burlies hangin on the ends).
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