Barrel Tuner - How to set it up?

J

JimReed1948

New member
I'm thinking about having a tuner put on my 40X. I know what a tuner does but have never used one. I read an article that is posted on this web site; http://www.22rf.com/articles/TunerWeights.html

Is this how ya'll set up a tuner? Seems to me this method uses a lot of ammunition.

After reading this article; http://rimfirebenchrest.com/articles/hopewell.html it seems similar to the first one. Maybe a little eaiser to understand.

I don't mind using ammunition to set a tuner up correctly, I just want to make sure I'm doing it the correct way.

When I buy my Eley ammunition, I buy 10 boxes at a time and they're the same Lot #. Each time I get new ammunition in a different lot number, will I have to retune? If using the method described in the above article, it seems the 10 boxes I normally purchase would only get the barrel tuned and I would need more to shoot a match.

Can someone point me to an article that shows how to set up a tuner.
 
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You already know how to use the search function. All of your issues have been discussed numerous times with numerous opinions expressed.

There is no one way of tuning a rifle. The Hopewll method works as well as any. Much of the work is subjective.

Yes you will use up some ammo getting your rifle properly tuned. The big trick is knowing when you have reached that point and have confidence that the tuning is "the best it can be". Once tuned you should not need to be "retuned" for different lots of ammo. In my experience the difference between good Lapua and good Eley is less than ten or so clicks on the Harrels tuner....and on a few rifles the happy mid point between the two works well with both brands.

Do you want to win? Do you want your rifle shooting the very best it can? If you answer yes to either question then get going on working on tuning your rifle. What is a couple of bricks if once done you can pick that rifle up and know it shoots bug holes? It can start to get hairy if you never reach that confidence point because then you start out wondering is it the barrel, the ignition, maybe I don't have any killer ammo, maybe a short or long Pappas noodle will help, I can't read wind flags very well, my rest top is not the best, maybe the rifle likes to be held tightly or loose, maybe it likes free recoil or free recoil with only my thumb grazing the stock etc etc etc. It is an endless pursuit. Its part of the fun of rimfire or it might drive one to drinking or tennis. Enjoy! bob
 
I've heard of metal memory but I don't think it was in this regaurd. Go back to sleep Marty...
 
I agree that a shot is needed after a tuner adjustment but it has nothing to do with metal memory. It is to take up any slop in the thread or off center stop with the detent ball in the tuner. You may stumble on a truism on occation but you ruin it with your made up reasoning for it.
 
No thanks, I've wasted enough time today already by responding to you.
 
"there is a post over on calfee's new forum where he has a dropper. he surmizes it's from lack of lube on that round. I suspect the dropper was caused by the previous round."

Martin,

Are you saying the round that was fired before the dropper was the round without lube? Or was there something else wrong with that round?
 
Can someone define....or can anyone define:
1) barrel vibration pattern
2) metal memory
3) harmonics memory
4) tuner memory

Then I see the "tuner detent ball slop" was given as a cause for change in tuning. Would some one like to try and estimate how much tuner movement this slop might cause?
 
martin hammond said:
Tony, last year I posted a comment and sent a letter to eley concerning inconsistant lube. what was found that boxes of eley that had considerable lube in the tray or on the sides of the holder had far more droppers than a pristine box. further testing and examinations also revealed some ammo only lubed on 1/2 the round. shortly after sending the email my computer crashed and I have no idea if eley ever answered. the dropper if caused by lube would be the prior one or two rounds that were improperly lubed.
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Martin,

Did you try wiping the excessive wax off to see if that would help reduce the droppers?

Did you try to add wax to those rounds that were only half waxed. If so, did it help?

Tony
 
Is that everyone's definition of those terms. I thought so! You are just using technical sounding words you have heard with no idea of what they might mean. No one will ever be able to make any sense out of all these posts if you can't put a reasonable meaning to the words.

Worse than using words with out defining their meaning is the idea that looking at one group, changing the tuner, and then deciding the next group fired will give an indication of an effect by the tuner. I wish shooting groups with a rimfire did work out that way but unfortunately it doesn't If you are following this course of tuning you are just chasing your tail!
 
martin hammond said:
pacecil, looked but could not find the dictionary on tuning only who invented it. ha ha. remove the tuner, shoot a range of ammo 1033 thru 1080 and then when changing tuner settings it will be noted every rifle unless overwhelmed with weight will try to shoot how that barrel and rifle was made. and paceil you disapoint maybe it's lack of trigger time I sure thought you were the one to figure the great tuner debate did not make sense from either al or bill.
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How about the slower bullet has more time to move the tuner up in relation to the rest. An object tends to stay at rest, the harder you hit it the more it weights. Fast bullets think the tuner weights more and the tuner stays at rest, slower bullets the tuner starts to rise before the bullet can leave the bbl.

With a tuner sitting on your desk push it real slow with your finger -no problem. now punch it with your finger, it don't want to move and you will hurt the end of your finger. Martin is correct, Bill and Al both have it wrong... maybe this ain't it but until someone can explain "why"... that's my story and i'm stickin to it! joe :)
 
martin hammond said:
Joe, I see you have the jtr stock, they are very very well built stocks. hope your turbo is a shooter. don't have the figures in front of me but a slow round 1035 and a faster round 1075 exiting the muzzle is around 1/1000 of a second between the 2 thats how critical tuning is.
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The JTR stock is great but a bit heavy. I'm not trying to make a class so no worry. Best of .087 5 shot group @ 50 yards. I would say average is under .200 for 50 yards- nothing to write home about. Took it all apart yesterday, barrel is back in the lathe.

"TIME" is relative... you should not compare barrel time to man's relativity. (no i did not compare time and man in my shooting instance)

What bothers me is almost any weight seems tunable. Isn't it nice everything works out for the Harrel tuner?????????????

I think we are taking positive (or up) distance the slower bullet needs over the faster. The barrel cannot go down due to the rest.

You didn't like my theory, don't feel bad -nobody else does either, lol.... It is really for the newbies -nobody will except it that has their mind made why/how Tuners work.

joe :)
 
martin hammond said:
Don, how long do you think barrel's vibrate? some will continue to vibrate depending on tempeture untill the lube congeals. being a big fan of varmit Al and Lynn's work on tuning the one and only flaw in the entire program is not shooting a fouling shot between adjustments. I would bet a shiny nickel if the same tests were run with a fouling shot not only their results would be different no one else's would be repeatable.
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They're kinda like you, they never really stop. I bet if you sensitive enough equipment, you could detect vibration in them right now.
 
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