AMMO Comparison

Thanks for pointing this out Tony. Excellent info.

I also cross posted on RA as I think anyone interested in accuracy will find it informative.
 
Its an interesting read. Personally I have never sorted any ammo. Don't have the patience for it.Even if I thought it would gain any advantage I wouldn't bother. I think there's too many other variables.

Keith
 
I have sorted for years

By what BC calls "Working Length". I have a gauge set up that measures from the front of the bullet, not the tip but where the bullet becomes one size to the front of the rim. If one has a chamber that jams their rounds, this measurement assures one gets consistent seating depth. I have always thought that, just as with Centerfire rounds, where the bullet will engage the lands is critical to accuracy. What one will generally find is a Bell Curve with every lot, the majority being in the center of the curve and a lot fewer on the beginning and end. I have sorted by .001" groups and keep them in marked boxes, shooting them separately in case one needs a click one way or the other. A great shooting lot of ammo will have very few variations in it's working length. Real good ones will have less than .004" in it's working length. The gauge I bought I have replicated and sold the original. I have sold a few of them over the years to folks who use them. I sort while watching TV in the evening and can go through a case in 3 or four evenings. I don't jam any longer and haven't for a few years now but it's still matters where the bullet firsts touches the lead of the chamber, ergo what makes one lot better than others, potentially. I always felt the little time I spent doing the sorting was worth doing, Certainly didn't hurt anything. Often one will find a few rounds that are wildly either long or short. These become foulers.

Pete
 
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I don't

PedroS said:
Interesting Pete.
According to the thread, how do you overcome the out of centre rims?
Click to expand...

I'm primarily interested in seating depth or working length. The bang when the primer ignites will take care of the rims.

Pete
 
PedroS said:
Interesting Pete.
According to the thread, how do you overcome the out of centre rims?
Click to expand...

A proper die that seems to do a better job, indicates off the front drive band and then end of case.
Sometimes you need to rotate case 90deg. Because of some variance in rim flatness but the front of the rim and radius into case body gives a lot of dimensional variance , more than side to side with some rims.

Some smiths have found this important under “ some “ circumstances in some barrels, usually heavily MI ones.
Also certain types of chambers. For instance if you have an MI barrel and it has a chamber cut for fairly full engraving with a short lot......it may hate long lots, some of which may be .010” longer. If you recall, this is why, I would bet, the WLM used to post often about ELEY publishing OAL data on lots
I have measured a fair amount with the die my gunsmith made but he has typically cut a mid depth chamber so my barrels seem not to be OAL super sensitive although I’ve seen that it will change the way fouling in the throat develops
 
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I went to

tim said:
A proper die that seems to do a better job, indicates off the front drive band and then end of case.
Sometimes you need to rotate case 90deg. Because of some variance in rim flatness but the front of the rim and radius into case body gives a lot of dimensional variance , more than side to side with some rims.

Some smiths have found this important under “ some “ circumstances in some barrels, usually heavily MI ones.
Also certain types of chambers. For instance if you have an MI barrel and it has a chamber cut for fairly full engraving with a short lot......it may hate long lots, some of which may be .010” longer. If you recall, this is why, I would bet, the WLM used to post often about ELEY publishing OAL data on lots
I have measured a fair amount with the die my gunsmith made but he has typically cut a mid depth chamber so my barrels seem not to be OAL super sensitive although I’ve seen that it will change the way fouling in the throat develops
Click to expand...

An AmicK (sp?) chamber a couple of years ago so mine don't engrave.

Pete
 
Rimfire ammo length

G'day all you rimfire shooters and happy Christmas from down-under.

About 5 years ago I made a simple gauge that measures variation in length of rimfire ammo.

I decided to measure from the top driving band to the inside of the rim as that is what determines the jump or jam in my Anschutz 1411's tight chamber.

I wrote about this at the time and published photos and plans in this thread http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?92277-Rimfire-Ammunition-Length.

It did make a marked improvement to my group sizes and my scores, enough to attract a few complaints from a couple of idiots who said that I was cheating because "He's measuring his ammo" and "He's using wind flags".

Even in Australia we have our fair share of muppets!

At the next comp I was on the bench next to one of these idiots so I complained to the referee "He's looking at my wind flags" - That shut the idiot up. Anybody that takes S&B ammo to a rimfire competition has rocks in their head imho and thats why some of the idiots shots were not even on the paper.

Stay safe people

Regards * doggie *
 
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