action welding

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ballpowder

Member
Hi, I am a welder not a gunsmith so please don't "rip me a new one" if this is a stupid question. Here goes; can a filler block/stiffener be welded in the magazine port in my model 722? If one was to use a tig welder do small tacks and jump around alot in between cooling periods would warpage be kept almost to nothing?
The old school guys like Roy Dunlap shortened actions w/ oxy acetelyne all the time. Prob had more warpage that they knew about but, hey?
What do guys think? Thanks.

Tim J.
 
I would make the filler block a "snug" fit and limit the tack welds to 6-8 on the perimeter.
The cantilevered beam (barrel) will tend to compress the insert and there should be no danger of it moving or falling out.

Jay, Idaho
 
As Butch mentioned, the entire front ring starting at the port openings. The bottom recoil lug on the action is the front of the mag box opening, something you do not want to heat.
The rear of the action where the bolt handle contacts the action on an angle is the extraction cam surface, another spot you do not want to heat.
 
I´ve also wondered about welding an action. Did weld a piece in the thump slot on a mauser once, Although I did have a mandrel in it it still warped, just a little though. But that was soft metal.
But my experience with welding hardenable metals is that even with tig welding the "joint" between the weld and metal gets to hard and prone to braking.
So.....those of you who have welded on a 700 action (4130 or 4140?), how do you go about it?
 
ballpowder said:
Hi, I am a welder not a gunsmith so please don't "rip me a new one" if this is a stupid question. Here goes; can a filler block/stiffener be welded in the magazine port in my model 722? If one was to use a tig welder do small tacks and jump around alot in between cooling periods would warpage be kept almost to nothing?
The old school guys like Roy Dunlap shortened actions w/ oxy acetelyne all the time. Prob had more warpage that they knew about but, hey?
What do guys think? Thanks.

Tim J.
Click to expand...

Hi Tim.

I say yes. Make a brass or copper mandrel that threads into the receiver ring to act as a heat sink. Control your temps and avoid blazing away.

As with any welding operation, your two big threats to contend with are distortion and drawing the parent material back from its present hardness. If you intend to weld the entire perimeter this may prove to be a bit of a challenge, but I'm confident it can be done. They weld on airplanes and nuclear submarines all the time and I have to imagine they are quite a bit more "kinky" to work on than a bolt action receiver.

Another possibility if you decide this is too intimidating is to use a low temp solder. The rub here of course is attacking your action with an open flame. You'll certainly cook whatever finish is on it now so consider that before starting the job.

Good luck.

C
 
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Heat sink, good idea!

I have a heat sink for welding mauser bolt handles, why did I not think of it here? This is why I needed to post on a gunsmith site. I'm a pipe/pressure vessel welder so small, critical, dimentional tolerances not a concern in day to day welding. Have also welded quite a few commercial kitchen sinks together and we do use big brass blocks under sink to absorb heat.

I may take a chance on this yet.

Tim J.
 
Purge it & use a brass heat sink/mandrel for the front receiver ring,bolt raceway.
Cut the single sled follower to match the parent material w/ a couple thou slip fit & TIG tac weld tight to lug rails.
Install a drafted recoil lug to the bottom of the follower & eliminate the sandwiched recoil lug.
 
Dans40X said:
Purge it & use a brass heat sink/mandrel for the front receiver ring,bolt raceway.
Cut the single sled follower to match the parent material w/ a couple thou slip fit & TIG tac weld tight to lug rails.
Install a drafted recoil lug to the bottom of the follower & eliminate the sandwiched recoil lug.
Click to expand...




Good information coming from the Man that does more welding on rifles than any other man in this country.
 
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